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Re: 2003 Sierra rear pads


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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
MarineGrunt profile image

Apr 6, 2013, 2:46 PM

Post #1 of 12 (1985 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra rear pads Sign In

 

When I took the rear brakes off I noticed that on the right side the pad were rusted into the bracket and weren't even doing anything. I think they have been like that for quite some time. I'm surprised the tire shop didn't notice or say anything when I got new tires. Guess it was something I should've looked over anyways. I guess it's possible the caliper is bad but I wonder if the pads were just bound up. I know I've run across some on past vehicles where I had to slightly grind the metal ends of the pad where they slide in that grove. I had a 99 Blazer about 10 years ago where that happened. I put new brakes on, took it for a test drive, and they started smoking. After I took a grinder to the pads it was fine. Is that the right way to go about it? What do you guys do if you run into the same problem?


(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 7, 2013, 5:49 AM)


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 6, 2013, 2:52 PM

Post #2 of 12 (1982 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In


Quote
After I took a grinder to the pads it was fine. Is that the right way to go about it?



Oh MG, MG, MG..................... that's not how you fix frozen slides. I can't believe you posted that in public. That's right up there with removing the check engine light bulb.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



MarineGrunt
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Apr 6, 2013, 3:04 PM

Post #3 of 12 (1977 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Ha....Back then I probably would've been looking for the blinker fluid too.

That's exactly why I asked before I did it again. The only excuse I have for my stupidity was that was right about when I started really getting into working on my own stuff. The internet was just getting going so I didn't have you guys to save my butt. Will those excuses work or should I try and think of some more? We'll just call me an idiot and leave it at that. Pirate

Since it is posted in public do you mind explaining the proper way to go about it in hopes it will keep someone else from doing it?

Thanks HT. I'll go stand in the corner now.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 6, 2013, 3:13 PM

Post #4 of 12 (1972 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

The piston applies pressure to the inboard pad. That causes the caliper to slide inward and pull the outboard pad against the rotor. If the pad isn't moving, then the caliper slide pins are likely frozen and either the caliper has to be replaced or the pins removed, cleaned up and lubricated so they move freely in the caliper hole.

In this case the slide goes into the bracket.







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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
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Apr 6, 2013, 3:59 PM

Post #5 of 12 (1967 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Thanks for the explanation.

Let me ask you this. On the Blazer we owned the slides were clean but everything was so tight I couldn't even get the pads in there. It was like they were a tad too big. They seemed to match up to the original. What do you do in a case like that?

Heading out for the night. Have to take the wife out for our anniversary. I'd rather work on my truck. Geez, women always talk about us understanding their feelings. What about ours? Cool


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 6, 2013, 4:37 PM

Post #6 of 12 (1964 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

I get poorly made pads all the time. You also have to wire brush out the channels and rails to get rid of any rust before assembly. I think I misunderstood what you actually did to those pads. I first thought you ground down the friction surface but now I think what you were saying is that you ground the ears of the pad to make them fit. The problem with that is when whatever caused it to be tight in the first place wears off, the pads will rattle and click.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



MarineGrunt
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Apr 6, 2013, 8:33 PM

Post #7 of 12 (1951 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Yeah, I meant the ears. When I did it I didn't take much off at all. Just enough to get it to move. Does that mean I'm not quite as big of a bonehead as what you originally thought?...lol...Am I at least out of the category of the check engine light bulb?

I looked over the brake hardware and pretty sure I found the problem. The pad mount was rusted through in one spot so dirt and debris were getting into the pins. That same pin was missing the rubber boot. It was rusted all to crap. That whole side of the brake system seem to be rusty. The dust cover is even rusted through. I did pick one of those up today along with new rotors and pads. The mount costs $20, but for another $25, I can get the mount and caliper. I may just go ahead and get the combo. I still haven't eliminated the caliper as the original problem. I'll check that out tomorrow and then decide for sure.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 6, 2013, 8:38 PM

Post #8 of 12 (1948 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Yeah you're off the hook. You might want to change both calipers. They have a lot of trouble with the aluminum housings if yours has that. I know the Blazers do.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 6, 2013, 9:37 PM

Post #9 of 12 (1943 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

MG - a huge help with brakes is to use the right grease and know where to put it. Properties are of course heat tolerant, waterproof etc. Hard use it's probably worth taking them off and greasing them again but nobody is going to do that so it do it right the first time.

The "burr"of poor metal stamping of the metal of some pads that absolutely will not fit IMO is OK to just take off the burr. If worse then that go for another brand and take those back. New hardware on some types is suggested. Drum brakes - always.

Also with disc brakes, especially anything w ABS you should be clever and not just push the fluid back to master but let it bleed out right while doing that. If you are good you don't end up with air in the system which can be a real pill to clear on some.

For rust belters: Watch out for cheap pads. Many will toss the friction pad right off the metal long before they are worn out! Surprise! I'm hard pressed to suggest brands anymore as what used to be the best can now suk, - Tom


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 7, 2013, 5:51 AM

Post #10 of 12 (1915 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

I moved the post and subsequent replies but it's a little confusing because the title in all the replies is wrong and I don't really want to edit all of them.


I guess this will explain it.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 7, 2013, 6:12 AM

Post #11 of 12 (1904 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Excellent - If I tried I probably would have lost the entire threadCrazy - T


MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
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Apr 7, 2013, 8:22 AM

Post #12 of 12 (1891 views)
Re: 2003 Sierra differential Sign In

Yeah, I'm bad about jumping around. I always seem to find something else that needs taken care of. I'll be sure to stick to one topic per thread. Good thing I didn't start asking more questions about that power steering pulley. That thread would've really been screwed up.






 
 
 






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