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making a bubble flare; clamp damages line


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fat-katie
User

Jun 13, 2021, 1:54 PM

Post #1 of 7 (335 views)
making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In

I am replacing brake lines and have to flare all the tubing. The brake line is copper nickel 3/16 od. The kit to make bubble flares is referred to as metric but is supposed to work with 3/16 line ( 4.75 mm ).

I'm to the point where I can make a great flare but I have a problem with the vise and the damage it causes. The vise has options for 10mm, 8mm 6mm and 4.75mm (3/16). When using the 4.75 hole the clamping action crushes the tube; the line is gets scored/grooved (by the camp) and is distorted enough that the fitting will not slide up neatly to the back of the flare. The flare itself is great.

Is this of concern? I imagine the bubble will snug up against the fitting when I tighten it down.


I tried using the 6mm hole but the line slides out when pressed with the die.

Thank you.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 13, 2021, 2:09 PM

Post #2 of 7 (330 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In

? If clamping the tube to be ready crushes the "line" is a better word it's not the right size or something gone wrong? I can't know what exact item and tools you are using.
Odd perhaps but I choose plain line that can rust again vs the others that are coated and things I'm not sure my own stuff would do well or at all?
It's been a while the line I get is still slightly powder coated just look like bare steel isn't. The inside is something else the steel supports the pressure is high. Copper is fine but not all copper would be illegal and never meant for brakes or fuel line in a vehicle.
Odd again, copper can crack! OMG - think of the Liberty Bell!
Tom



fat-katie
User

Jun 13, 2021, 2:26 PM

Post #3 of 7 (323 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In

I read copper nickel was the way to go. Doesn't rust? I hope when you say copper, you mean pure copper and not this alloy. Otherwise it just another screw up for me.


Anyway, I installed the flare I made into a fitting, tightened it up, and the removed it. Looked really good. But I'm reading on line that making your own is a crap shoot. I spent the money and have committed. I'll let you know.

But yes, the clamp does crush the line. I have no experience here so I can't tell you if this is a good quality tool or not. They all looked the same to me.

Thanks for the help. Out.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jun 13, 2021, 3:12 PM

Post #4 of 7 (312 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In


Quote
Is this of concern? I imagine the bubble will snug up against the fitting when I tighten it down.


It is definitely a concern. Unless that flare is perfect, it will leak. We warned you this was an enormous job. Those cheap little kits never work very well and are difficult to use.

I use a hydraulic one but it costs $400.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 13, 2021, 3:24 PM

Post #5 of 7 (308 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In

I'm learning with you on what it's made of?? I'm in MA, BTW has the nastiest laws about what you can or can't sell for use as brakes in a vehicle used on public roads.

I said somewhere I buy premade line, the longest they sell so two fittings and already flared ends are ready. Then buy short line if I need more "flare nuts" for some reason the 8" line with flares and nuts is cheaper than the nuts??

I cut down the long one for as much as I need and can route where old line was. Then a brass union that takes the type flare one I made or one pre-made.

Plain but better steel line, last time to brake only (they do more) place saw all the other crap I don't do that. I also spray my new line with lithium grease and flare nuts with Silicon grease so they NEVER would go again + none ever have.

If you bought all this on the web IDK what to say? If I bought line and needed a flaring tool, tubing cutter I'd probably buy it right there and test it out. Oooops, if it didn't work on what they sell - stuff it. It's never happened line things always worked out.

If you tool to make flares is crushing the line it wasn't meant for that line - that's that.

I don't have or use an "end" flare making tool just the little one with all common sizes.

All this for car work is cheap the time is nasty bending the finished line made so it's just right.

Take you problem back to where you got it this isn't rocket science it's a PITA that happens if your "rustproof stuff doesn't flare or bend tell me what good is it?

Nothing should need a remade line done again in the possible extreme life of a car that's used at all IMO,

Tom



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jun 13, 2021, 4:35 PM

Post #6 of 7 (296 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In


Quote
I also spray my new line with lithium grease and flare nuts with Silicon grease so they NEVER would go again + none ever have.


Be very careful with silicone. It is not compatible with Dot 3 or 4 fluid. Only use that after everything is connected.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jun 13, 2021, 5:06 PM

Post #7 of 7 (285 views)
Re: making a bubble flare; clamp damages line Sign In

Silicone "grease" for brakes used on metal line so it's under flare nuts where they rust and spin if removing later. Do that right it's good for indefinitely, impervious to salts, water.

That is the pure stuff no tricks and costly by a tube I only see it at that brake store only - Dynatex Pure Silicone for brakes!

Tom







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