|
|
new caravan wheel bearings dont seem right...
|
|
|
| |
|
|
snibboh
New User
Dec 18, 2013, 10:14 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1481 views)
|
|
new caravan wheel bearings dont seem right...
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi,
sorry that my question is for a caravan and not a car but it seemed like this was a good forum to find people who might be able to help.
I have recently purchased a 1970's windsor pop up caravan. I had a service centre carry out a routine check of bearings ...replacing if necessary. They replaced them and gave the van back. however...whilst before my caravan presented no sign of bad bearings, it now does.
i have begun noticing a scraping sound only when driving slowly around corners (the type of driving that forces a bit of side pressure onto the wheel). I notice nothing unusual while braking or driving on the highway.
when jacked up, the wheel has a bit of play - it can rock back and forth slightly. My father in law owns plenty of macs and heavy machinery and knows his way well enough around cars but he couldn't do up the bearings any tighter before the wheels became too stiff to rotate. He says the bearings do look brand new and recently repacked.
anyone got any ideas why my wheels have so much play in them that they now rub against the brakes when turning?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 18, 2013, 11:17 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1467 views)
|
|
Re: new caravan wheel bearings dont seem right...
|
Sign In
|
|
Not familiar with this vehicle at all but bearing issues are more universal. Seems nobody knows how to tell a good or bad one or how to set the tension on repackable typical inner/outer bearings.
Too tight they burn up fast. Too loose you'll get the free-play and symptoms. Flaws are common even on new ones but it all or both chances are something wasn't done properly.
Doesn't matter now they need to be properly check, replaced as needed by someone who knows how. Since the '70s many bearings anywhere are not serviceable simply because nobody could or would consistently keep up with them or even install them properly so took much of the "human" factor out for sealed ready to go units that are not adjustable or serviceable you just toss them,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
snibboh
New User
Dec 19, 2013, 12:41 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1463 views)
|
|
Re: new caravan wheel bearings dont seem right...
|
Sign In
|
|
thanks for the reply.
so there is a chance that they simply could not easily source the correct bearings so they went with the best fit they could find that they had in supply?
if the symptoms are not noticed driving on the highway do you think it will be fine to take on a 2 hour journey and back?
|
|
| |
|
|
nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Dec 19, 2013, 1:39 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1461 views)
|
|
Re: new caravan wheel bearings dont seem right...
|
Sign In
|
|
I would take a closer look before you try to put that on the highway. If the bearing fails the wheel will leave your vehicle in a hurry and you'll be rolling on a tripod. Plus that wheel/tire/hub combo has enough weight and will be going fast enough is could hurt or kill someone if it hits another car.
Behind your brake rotor should be a thin steel dust shield. Might not be in the best shape after 40 years and you will hear them fast if they touch the rotor or the wheel rim. Make sure it isn't bent, which can easily happen while working on the bearings.
I'm not sure if the guy who has looked at this is adjusting them up right. Lot of people think they know how and most of them don't. I'm going to take a guess on specs here to put you in the ballpark of what I think you should be at for the size of the vehicle you are describing.
You need to have the cotter pin out of the castle nut that holds the bearing to allow oyu to adjust it, but leave the wheel on. You need to get the tire rolling and keep it rolling while in the air, so a helper could be useful to keep turning it.
1. while turning the wheel to the right, torque the bearing nut to 85 ft-lbs of torque (you'll need a torque wrench to do this).
2. now roll the wheel to the left and loosen the nut one full turn.
3. rolling the wheel to the right again, torque the nut to 35 ft-lbs of torque.
4. back the nut off about 1/8 of a turn and ensure the wheel moves well enough to not be preloaded. Total endplay (the amount you can move in and out on the tire with your hands) should not exceed .005-.008 of an inch.
5. reinstall the locking mechanism so the adjusting nut doesn't move while driving. If this is held by a cotter pin that has to be bent after it goes through a hole that pin should be replaced with a new one.
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Tierod end change caused some kind of leak
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
