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2010 Accord sound on cold start
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nickhelmuth
New User
Sep 16, 2015, 10:07 AM
Post #1 of 8
(3171 views)
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2010 Accord sound on cold start
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New to the forum and hoping to have some help diagnosing my 2010 4-cylinder Accord. My car makes the sound you can hear in the file link below... It has been going on for several months and used to only occur after the car has been sitting over night. It is beginning to do this more often after sitting for a few hours... Any thoughts? I recently had it in for an oil change and inspection and nothing was found.
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1JNk9sJqtPL
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 16, 2015, 11:32 AM
Post #2 of 8
(3160 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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That's a pretty quick listen to go by. IDK - could be starter drive gear on flywheel/ring gear which would be obvious IMO to a pro ear but you are saying it only does it cold so might have to leave it.
Is this just once for the day then fine? Wow - going to be lucky to catch that while happening,
T
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nickhelmuth
New User
Sep 16, 2015, 12:26 PM
Post #3 of 8
(3157 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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Yeah it is just in the morning after it's been sitting over night. The sound is only for a second then it's fine for the rest of the day. It seems to be getting a bit louder and more pronounced as time has gone by. Going to be tough to figure out...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 16, 2015, 1:07 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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It's still important to pay attention to noises. Few are really normal.
Try this and forget distraction of recording device but have hood open when noise expected with a helper to start the engine. Look for starter motor right where it meets transmission. If you can focus even with a listening rod right there you may hear it more clearly and locate it. Pain in the butt to only have two seconds a day to pin it down!
Some vehicles also may have a dust shield under that area. For that anytime if you can get under side just see if it's bent or loose at all?
I really can't tell from the recording so could be way off. It's just that's the first thing moving and it had kinda that sound. Fix if so could be taking starter out for inspection or replacement if it gets worse and that is determined to be the cause?
T
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 16, 2015, 4:56 PM
Post #5 of 8
(3141 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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09-010
September 24, 2014
Applies To:
2008-12 ACCORD L4 - ALL
2007-12 CR-V - ALL
Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up
(Supersedes 09-010, dated October 6, 2012; see REVISION SUMMARY)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the template ID was removed.*
SYMPTOM
At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about 2 seconds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator is defective.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the VTC actuator. This procedure does not require the complete removal of the cam chain and associated parts, so repair time is much shorter.
PARTS INFORMATION
VTC Actuator:
2007-09 CR-V: P/N 14310-RZA-003
2010-11 CR-V: P/N 14310-R40-AO1
2012CR-V and
2008-12 Accord L4: P/N 14310-R44-A01
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket:
P/N 08718-0004
(One tube repairs about two vehicles.)
TOOL INFORMATION
Stopper (lock pin): P/N 14511-PNA-003
Tappet Adjuster: P/N O7MAA-PR70110
Tappet Locknut Wrench:P/N O7MAA-PR70120
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 1101Z9
Flat Rate Time: 2.0 hours
Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-AO1
Defect Code: 03214
Symptom Code: 04201
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If viewing this service bulletin on ISIS and your computer has sound, click here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM96ks7gDBI to hear a sample of the engine's rattle.
1. Allow the engine oil to drain from the VTC system by not starting the engine for at least 6 hours.
2. Start the engine, and immediately listen for a loud rattle.
On start-up, do you hear a loud engine rattle that
lasts about 2 seconds?
Yes - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
No -
^ If you hear a different noise, continue with normal troubleshooting.
^ If you don't hear an abnormal noise, get more information from the customer and, if needed, continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
This procedure is in an outline form that you can also use as a checklist for the repair. If you need more details, refer to the appropriate service manual for the following procedures:
^ Cylinder Head Cover Removal
^ Cylinder Head Cover Installation
^ Valve Clearance Adjustment
1. Remove the frame (strut) brace (if equipped).
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove the ignition coil cover and the ignition coils.
4. Remove the engine oil dipstick, then disconnect the breather hose and the brake booster vacuum hose from the cylinder head cover.
5. Remove the two bolts holding the EVAP canister purge valve bracket to the cylinder head.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover.
7. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
8. Turn the front wheels or remove the right front wheel.
9. Remove the splash shield to provide access to the crankshaft pulley.
10. Remove the camshaft auto-tensioner (chain case) cover.
11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to top dead center (TDC) No.1 cylinder.
12. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner. Align the hole in the lock and auto-tensioner, then insert a 1.2 mm (0.05 in) diameter stopper (lock pin).
13. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC No.1 cylinder.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Mark the timing chain at the punch marks on the exhaust camshaft sprocket and VTC actuator. Secure the chain to the sprocket with a wire tie.
16. Loosen the camshaft holder bolts, in sequence, two turns at a time.
17. Remove the five camshaft holders. Set them aside on a clean surface in the exact order and position that they were removed from the cylinder head.
18. Carefully tip up the end of the intake camshaft until there is enough slack for an assistant to lift the chain off the VTC actuator teeth.
19. Remove the intake camshaft/VTC actuator assembly while the assistant keeps light tension on the chain. Place the camshaft/VTC actuator assembly on a clean, padded workbench.
20. Secure the timing chain to the A/C compressor hose using a wire or zip tie to keep it from falling into the front cover.
21. On the workbench, as an assistant holds the camshaft steady with an open-end wrench, remove the actuator mounting bolt, then separate the VTC actuator from the camshaft. Discard the faulty actuator.
22. Before installing the new VTC actuator, make sure it is in the unlocked position.
23. Install the new, unlocked VTC actuator onto the camshaft; do not force it on.
24. Once fitted, with the VTC actuator facing you, carefully rotate it counterclockwise until it engages the camshaft's locator pin. When installed and rotated this way, the VTC actuator will not lock. Apply clean engine oil to the mounting bolt threads, then install the mounting bolt finger tight.
NOTE:
If the new VTC actuator is unlocked after installation on the camshaft, proceed to step 28. If the actuator is locked following installation on the camshaft, go to step 25.
25. To unlock a locked VTC actuator, apply clean engine oil to the mounting bolt threads, then install the mounting bolt finger tight on the actuator.
26. Seal pressure port #1 on the camshaft with several wraps of electrical tape. Secure the tape with a zip tie, as shown.
27. Apply compressed air to pressure port # 2. While air pressure is applied to pressure port # 2, rotate the complete the VTC unlock procedure by rotating the VTC Actuator by hand in the direction shown (as needed) to unlock the VTC Actuator.
Verify the actuator has moved to the unlock position.
Afterward, make sure to remove all electrical tape and adhesive residue.
28. Have an assistant hold the camshaft/VTC actuator assembly steady on the padded workbench with an open-end wrench. Use a torque wrench to torque the mounting bolt to 113 N.m (83 lb-ft).
NOTE:
Be careful to not scratch or damage the camshaft. Also, do not use an impact wrench to tighten the mounting bolt; it will cause internal damage to the VTC actuator housing, vanes, or lockpin.
29. After the mounting bolt is torqued, rotate the VTC actuator to the locked position
30. Remove the wire ties as an assistant keeps light tension on the chain.
31. Slide the camshaft/VTC actuator in at an angle so that the chain can slip over the actuator's teeth.
32. Line up the marks you made on the chain with the punch marks on the exhaust camshaft sprocket and VTC actuator.
33. Apply engine oil to the journals and caps for both camshafts. Lower the camshaft/VTC actuator assembly onto its journals.
34. Install the camshaft holders. Tighten them down two turns at a time, starting in the middle and working your way outward, following the numbered sequence.
35. Remove the lock pin from the auto-tensioner.
36. Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) two full turns, then stop at the white TDC mark. Make sure both camshafts line up, as shown in step 15.
37. Inside the cylinder block, visually confirm that the timing chain is properly riding on its guide, and has not slipped behind the guide in the block. If so, realign the chain as needed.
38. Remove the old sealant, dry, reseal, then reinstall the auto4ensioner (chain case) cover.
NOTE:
Wait 30 minutes before adding oil, if needed, and wait 3 hours before starting the engine.
39. Check and, if needed, adjust the valve clearance using a tappet adjuster.
Intake: 0.21 -0.25 mm (0.008 - 0.010 in)
Exhaust: 0.25-0.29 mm (0.010 - 0.011 in)
40. Following adjustment, use a tappet locknut wrench to torque the locknuts.
Intake and Exhaust: 14 N.m (10 lb-ft)
41. Raise the vehicle.
42. Reinstall the splash shield.
43. Straighten the wheels or reinstall the right front wheel (if removed).
44. Lower the vehicle.
45. Reinstall the cylinder head cover, tightening the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).
46. Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
47. Reinstall the engine oil dipstick, and reconnect the breather hose and the brake booster vacuum hose.
48. Reinstall the ignition coils and the ignition coil cover.
49. Reinstall the engine cover.
50. Reinstall the frame (strut) brace (if equipped). Torque the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Sep 16, 2015, 5:03 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 17, 2015, 1:29 AM
Post #6 of 8
(3132 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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OMG - What a find DS!
OP - Pay attention. That noise is so short lived it would be missed by most,
T
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nickhelmuth
New User
Sep 17, 2015, 9:19 AM
Post #7 of 8
(3120 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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Wow... Just Wow! I have no idea how you found that but it appears to be the exact issue going on. The youtube clip even sounds identical... Thank you so much!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 17, 2015, 10:23 AM
Post #8 of 8
(3118 views)
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Re: 2010 Accord sound on cold start
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I'm shocked at that find clearly. Hope it's under warranty but a 2 hr. job doesn't sound so bad. Even the bulletin said it's only a 2 second sound. Give us a break - how fast can you be?
Good luck with getting that fixed and thanks goes to DS = Discretesignals for finding that,
T
PS: The flaming "Wow" and more comes from a Ted Montgomery Animated stuff that's pretty cool........
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