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FIXITDUMMY
New User
Oct 31, 2005, 10:00 PM
Post #1 of 4
(2580 views)
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At wits end
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1994 buick regal. 1)husband HATES working on cars as something always seems to happen!!! (I think he is jinxed)
In Jan we had the rear drivers side rotor and brakes replaced. Around July, the passengers side breaks were squealing real bad. We had to replace the breaks and rotor. Ended up taking us about 14 hrs because we couldnt get the caliper to decompress, finally found out 93-96 models caliper TURNS. Then the screw that holds break line in ended up getting broken inside, husband was trying to tighten it but washer had fallen out and broke it off. Plus they gave us the wrong rotor and had to hunt down a ride to get the right one PLUS another screw.
About 3 weeks later, the brakes rear passernger starting squealing again!!!!
Didnt have moeny till 2 weeks ago so checked them out and the pads were gone and rotor all scratched up. Was told the caliper was probably bad too. So we replaced the caliper, breaks and rotor AGAIN!!!! Then tonight on way to work, the brakes started squealing and grinding AGAIN!!! Rear passengers side. They started locking up also, husband said he would start to press on pedal but before he got it down it would just jerk to a stop and lock up. Said he would have to go in reverse sometimes to unlick them. FUnny thing, they dont squeal or grind in reverse. At our wits end. No idea what is causing this. Cant afford to take it to someone and running out of money to keep replacing the same stuff over and over. Any ideas??
(This post was edited by FIXITDUMMY on Nov 1, 2005, 7:42 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 1, 2005, 1:11 AM
Post #2 of 4
(2573 views)
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Next time you replace disc brake pads use the porcelain ones. They are silent. You still have some problems here to tend to. The flex hoses can internally make a reed valve and the fluid to a caliper goes in and can't come out so it stays on!! Test by jacking up car - find stuck wheel and open the bleeder just a bit and if the wheel turns that's a good sign the hose is no good. A real frozen caliper is unlikely to react to that test.
Parking brake cables are another pest. They must move freely and if you need one or more (you should have three) pay the couple bucks for exact replacements as the universal ones can take hours and a lot of screaming to get right.
Good thing to do is to put rust solvent and grease on the metal parts that may have to come undone now or later. Can save a lot of time. Good luck, - T
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FIXITDUMMY
New User
Nov 1, 2005, 8:53 AM
Post #3 of 4
(2565 views)
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Is it possible its the master cylinder or can that be ruled out?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 1, 2005, 9:51 AM
Post #4 of 4
(2562 views)
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If the master cylinder isn't brand new it should NOT be causing your sysmtems. I did had a defective new one and I'll tell you the brand - AutoSpecialty - ones made in Italy wouldn't let brakes realease. -- when warmed up a bit. Drove me nuts to figure that one out. I could test drive that car and it was fine. Customer barely made it home as it was fully warmed up. Of course when I drove over it wouldn't do it but I sure believed her.
Some things to try are bleeding the brakes. Check for a damaged brake line like from a road hazzard or jacking it up.
What's the rust condition of this car in general? I'm here all the time so you'll hear back quick from me if there's more I can do, - T
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