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Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper?


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swthom
New User

Jul 19, 2010, 6:07 PM

Post #1 of 6 (3810 views)
Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

1996 GMC Jimmy, 4X4, V6, 195,xxx miles...driving 75mph with cruise on and everything was fine. tap breaks to slow down for exit ramp and notice loud clicking sound (sounds like from right front)-like a playing card in bike spokes- and some metallic sounds too-like wear sensor on break pads. Just replaced front pads (and just looked at them again to make sure they were still in one piece) a couple of weeks ago. Break pads look fine, rotors look fine, calipers look very dirty but still sealed...When I came to a stop...no noises, when I accelerate they come back-the clicking card in spokes sound is the loudest. No change when turning and the sound slows down as I slow down. I rev the motor and get no noise...Everything I see suggests caliper or half-shaft but the caliper looks to be in fair working order and my experience with half shafts has always started with clicking/crunching sounds when turning...any suggestions??

Have made sure nothing was rubbing tire-and there isn't.
Have taken tire off and physically touched everything to make sure nothing was loose or sticking.
Have made sure calliper was tight
Pads looked good, rotors looked good, calipers are very dirty but, as mentioned above, sealed.
no leaks detected.
It really sounds like it is coming from left front but hard to be 100% sure-back left??


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jul 19, 2010, 6:19 PM

Post #2 of 6 (3806 views)
Re: Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

Pull the wheel and inspect for any marks on the inside of the wheel that would indicate the caliper touching the inside of the wheel.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 19, 2010, 6:32 PM

Post #3 of 6 (3803 views)
Re: Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

If you just replaced pads and nothing else and the problems started right then, then that's the problem area most likely.

CV joints usually will crackle upon accellerating with wheels turned and bearings will usually alter tone or sounds with steering left or right at some speed.

Just pads may be striking a rust ring if not turned or replaced and can make quite a racket.

Dirty caliper alone doesn't tell me much. Did you lube it and clean up the contact areas for the pads and lube those? After using brakes is the wheel turning free?

Short cutting brakes can lead to a complete redo and waste of what you already did. If you just pushed back piston to allow for new pad you just pushed dirty brake fluid right back thru the system - you should open a bleeder to retract a piston or risk that used fluid to end up in sensitive parts up stream from caliper.

Take caliper suspect back off and really look at the pads. If hair line cracks or chunks missing you won't see that with them intact. Any and all anti rattle hardware must be in place and wear sensor not bent or lose. Also make sure backing plate isn't rubbing against rotor but right now that's not high on the suspect list - a band-aid patch for worn brakes is,

T



swthom
New User

Jul 19, 2010, 7:27 PM

Post #4 of 6 (3794 views)
Re: Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

no rub...just messed with again...tried the 4X4 and the noise went away...put it back in 2X4 noise came back...did this a couple of times and then while in 4X4 (no noise) I made a turn-kind of sharp at very low speed...heard a pop then I put it back to 2X4 and drove it about 10 miles without the noise.

While turning it does feel like it is binding a little so I am now leaning toward the CV joint more but the other post (mod) makes me feel stupid for not completelly redoing the brakes when I changed the pads...I had $30 bucks in pocket and needed pads in a bad way...the calipers cost a little more than I had and I will be changing them in the future but not at this time...unless I really need to and even then I will probablly only do one right away as I am limited in funds at moment. the CV joint is $50 and I can do that if I have to but I am only trying to nurse this thing for a couple of months and then I will have to spend lots of money as the transmission doesn't like to shift from first to second.

Thanks for both responses...

Sean


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 19, 2010, 8:02 PM

Post #5 of 6 (3791 views)
Re: Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

Entire half shaft with new boots is just 59 bucks!

************

Duralast Reman/CV Halfshaft Part Number:
9436 Price: $59.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $10.00
Total: $69.99 Warranty:
Limited Lifetime Notes: Fits either side 36mm hex head spindle nut



***********

Many 4X4s will bind with turning in 4X4 on dry road even just wet road.

Take it out and feel it if needed to make sure you even need it. This could be trouble inside transer case or who knows? You are still talking hacking brake work if you think ONE rotor is solution.

Sorry about limited funds. Driving a vehicle on pubic roads is a privlege not a right. You risk others never mind yourself.

No - I don't think you are stupid - just warnings that short cutting some things costs tons more in no time or worse can cause an accident and injury.

Seriously - this site and most are public. Suggestions of less than proper work would make us look irresponsible,

Tom



swthom
New User

Jul 19, 2010, 11:06 PM

Post #6 of 6 (3787 views)
Re: Break noise? Half-shaft? Caliper? Sign In

Thanks for the advise! The truck feels fine and the noise is new so I haven't driven much; got home and was just checking it out. I will probably change both calipers within the next week or so just to be on the safe side. I also think I may go ahead and change the right half shaft as well. I only paid $500 for the truck and I knew I would have to sink some money into it...was just hopping to stall a little longer!






 
 
 






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