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Steering wheel shake


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capinolson
New User

Nov 5, 2015, 11:29 AM

Post #1 of 5 (1988 views)
Steering wheel shake Sign In

Hi, I have a 2004 Hyundai xg350. I'm 20(not very mechanically inclined) I have two questions. Lately there has been a minor rattling from the back let of the car and I noticed it looks like the rear sway arm is slipping out of the bushing a little bit. I ordered some new bushings hoping that's the fix and they should be here in a week or so. I was reading that it is possible to go without the sway arm. I wanted to know if I could take it out just to see if that stops the noise. Also on a different not I just recently replaced all break pads. Rear rotors seem pretty smooth. Front kind of has like smooth lines around the rotor (seemed okay). But now when I drive there the steering wheel shakes all the time. The car pulls to the left a little. It shakes when accelerating, when slowing down, and when coasting. I just had it up on jack stands in drive and the steering wheel doesn't shake. Wheel weights are there, and rims are okay. what could be the problem? Everything seems okay but when on stands the front sway arm moves a little. is that normal?


(This post was edited by capinolson on Nov 5, 2015, 12:11 PM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 5, 2015, 2:04 PM

Post #2 of 5 (1970 views)
Re: Steering wheel shake Sign In

! Oh boy - lots here for reasons for things and not hacking brakes as you did.


Anti-roll sway bars that are pins bushings, a sleeve, washers and a bolt when one breaks will make some wild sound. That exact type not to do with holding wheels in place at all you can take out the broken one till new parts come in and it will shut up as it's not working when broken anyway. Any confusion about the type don't!
Brakes: OMG - there's your reason for a steering wheel shaking right there. Looks mean shat to rotors. You measure them and with that decide to turn them or replace them. When just tossing in pads they aren't seated into unseen plane of the rotor and can rub into the outer rusted ring common to most all and shake like crazy.
More on brakes: Calipers have to have piston retracted to make room if good enough to be re-used at all. Most would use a "C" clamp and just push fluid back to master cylinder pushing all that debris back thru wildly expensive ABS system when if you do you should push piston back and open bleeder at least so well no air gets in.
In the course of that is one piston is harder to push back/retract then the other side you seriously question the caliper itself for re-use usually do both.


I really do encourage learning but by far the best way is with an experience person/tech working with you the first time with things ESPECIALLY ANYTHING BRAKES!


Here to help and warn you too. I call it "faking" a brake job as you described. Great, saves tons of bucks and do it all over again because you didn't know what would ruin even the partial job. Beware of some YouTube type things that make everything look so easy. Some are spot on and some are plain dangerous and up to YOU to know the difference,


T



Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Nov 5, 2015, 4:13 PM

Post #3 of 5 (1963 views)
Re: Steering wheel shake Sign In

Not mechanically inclined and your doing brakes and suspension repairs? SCARY!





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


capinolson
New User

Dec 1, 2015, 3:42 PM

Post #4 of 5 (1893 views)
Re: Steering wheel shake Sign In

Thanks for the help... I guess I should have said I know a little. As far as breaks and rotors and suspension I feel like this is DIY kind of stuff. "Not the type to take a butter knife to a bolt." Anyways I fixed the problem myself. As far as the steering wheel shake after that break pad change. I figured I'd take one of your advices about bad rotors so I figured I do the break job "the right way." With new rotors and pad. When it came time to do the rotor change I took my front right tire off. And noticed it wasn't rolling even and had a bubble. It wasn't the pad replacement that caused the wheel wobble, must of just hit something that messed up my tire right after I did the pads. So a new Tire fixed the wobble. (still replaced the rotors since I had them)
As far as the rattle in the back... I replaced everything on the sway bar. End links and bushings. The rattle was still there... so it had to be my shocks. When replacing the shocks I noticed on the rear left shock the washer and some of the hardware that held the foam boot was rusted and looked pretty beat up. And I believe that's what the rattle came from. So I ordered rear replacement strut mounts and it came with the new hardware. ANNNNNND problem solved. And my vehicle is riding smooooooth.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Dec 2, 2015, 1:23 AM

Post #5 of 5 (1879 views)
Re: Steering wheel shake Sign In

Quote">>As far as breaks and rotors and suspension I feel like this is DIY kind of stuff.<<"
That's a very dangerous thing to have said unless a typo. If one new tire only alignment has been altered now or up to on certain vehicles you can't do just one.
Glad you for yourself are finding and fixing problems but it isn't that easy. BTW "breaks" is spelled "BRAKES" and posted it wrong twice. Anyone can make typos but perhaps you should correct that as the words mean different things if giving someone advice fix stuff like that when noticed,


T







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