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West Texas Broc
Novice
Sep 23, 2014, 4:50 PM
Post #1 of 12
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Chevy suburban problem
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2001 Chevy suburban has a problem. It started with instrument panel gauges temporarily not working. Then they went completely dead. Then a/c would run when key was off or removed. Battery dies after sitting for anytime. I have replaced negative battery cable, put new wire on positive line coming from alternator. I also removed several grounds cleaned them up and put back on. I have also had battery and alternator checked. I can jump the vehicle and get it to run but after getting up to highway speed if I slow down the vehicle will not accelerate past 35 to 40 mph. Any ways to proceed would be appreciated.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 23, 2014, 5:00 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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Does this have automatic temperature control? If so, the blower control module might be goofing up.
When it isn't wanting to accelerate, is the engine revving really high? Is the check engine light on? If so, scan for codes.
If the transmission feels like it is stuck in one gear along with your gauges being dead, you might have a faulty ignition switch. When the gauges are dead, check for power on the IGN O fuse 10 amp in the fuse block inside the cabin.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Sep 23, 2014, 5:02 PM)
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West Texas Broc
Novice
Sep 23, 2014, 6:33 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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It has a temperature dial, not sure if that is automatic?
Service engine light is on. Only thing on instrument cluster that is on. When it is not accelerating, no engine revving up, it's like not getting power.. I changed fuel filter less than 100 miles ago.
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kev2
Veteran
Sep 24, 2014, 8:57 AM
Post #4 of 12
(1734 views)
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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to get started on this-
get the codes- free scans at most auto parts stores- ask if you need specifics.
is there a remote - starter? - I like to know BEFORE getting a wiring diagram pulled up.
Do you have any issues with ign switch?
Are you ok with a test light or DVOM?
sorry so many questions BUT need to know to get started...
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West Texas Broc
Novice
Sep 26, 2014, 8:14 AM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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Can't get a scan, live 20 miles outside of town. I can get it to run but it won't make it that far. I am ok with a volt meter but getting ohm's is not something I am familiar with. I will check the fuse on ignition switch tomorrow. It's been a busy work week since my first post. I am a novice mechanic but I have been able to learn a decent amount on my own. There is not a remote starter. Haven't had any problems with starter before but it is a old vehicle. Will be putting a new battery this weekend as well. Will post after I have done those things tomorrow. Thanks
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 26, 2014, 4:57 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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Ok, you can't get ay codes
You can't do any electrical testing
You don't know what kind of AC system you have
I'm afraid you're options are pretty limited.
This is about all you have left
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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West Texas Broc
Novice
Sep 26, 2014, 6:11 PM
Post #7 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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That is not exactly correct. I can't get codes currently. After looking at it I do believe it has auto a/c. I am not familiar with ohm's. It doesn't mean that I am completely unable. I am trying to find the problem and I am looking for assistance. If you don't want to assist that is fine.
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kev2
Veteran
Sep 27, 2014, 11:39 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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AC running after removing key...
gauges inop....
Poor performance..
Likely codes....
Any chance there is a remote starter- any added electrical - non factory components (radio) - plow- etc
I hate to look at diagrams then find out YES.
Taking a SWAG - ignition switch.
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West Texas Broc
Novice
Sep 28, 2014, 7:29 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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No after market parts. Just installed new battery and checked ign fuse, all of them. All fusses good, and no power draw with key off. Also went thru and checked all fuses in reference to acceleration(ECM, O2 sensors, anything that had to do with fuel basically) all checked out good. I am going to take it in and see what codes are. What troubles me is after installing new battery and charging old one vehicle will run super good. I can accelerate normally, but after about 5 minutes, it acts like it wants to die and won't accelerate at all. I thought that instruments being dead and poor performance were related. But maybe instrument cluster is just dead and other issue is mechanical?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 28, 2014, 9:45 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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If you removed those fuses to check them, you have likely erased the codes now. They may reset but some may be lost.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 28, 2014, 10:31 AM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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Not sure how you are checking what or can know a battery is good or not. If A/C is staying on with key out still it's going to take down new or a charged old battery or if a dead battery jumped and runs for a minute or several could super strain alternator to get so hot it would quit so how did you test that is working?
Gauges must be off if still off you still need to know it's operating voltage vs just sitting there with engine off and bet now alternator isn't charging and such a strong draw you just said it didn't have it's running voltage gets so low just the fuel pump can't make enough pressure if it is good to keep it running well and get a CEL light for not running well.
We are stuck with WAGuesses (wild arse guesses) too with this info. Un plug the dang blower still running or defeat it if still just running whether asked to or not.
My WAG is ignition also burned and if wire burned to alternator was also burned out this may have just spiked voltages not noticed and fried some things not just the specific cluster but any relays might stick on involved and a list of maybe items blown if it suffered a high voltage problem.
Since it runs fine for a while with new or used (do I have that right?) battery just charged up that could be about as long as it could hold adequate voltage for it to run properly and would soon die out.
I think cluster has failed and probably needs to be sent out for repair and will just blow it again is possible or not.
If you only have a volt meter and now have disconnected battery you've lost some info that a code reading could help with and will if battery does go completely dead as well if really that dead.
That alone will kill a battery but may take a charge to run again but still not right.
Well - if you are this 20 miles out of town it's probably about time to tow it to a dealer that can find source issue that in turn may have caused others any may just have been Kev2's SWAG that ignition off and key out the ignition switch wasn't really off at all or completely then burned up things by just jumping it alone letting just alternator try to charge very low battery this is snowballing into increasing failures,
T
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kev2
Veteran
Sep 28, 2014, 11:53 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: Chevy suburban problem
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MY SWAG was the ignition SWITCH - either contacts or wiring at switch.
pull the AC relay - often relays fuse when there is low power to them - ie dead battery...
I agree that it MAY be 2 separate issues-
1) electrical - AC staying on, no gauges, - restate all elec issues after new battery install -
2) poor performance- hopefully some clues with the scan if NOT then BASICS.
Running good for #5 minutes- check for exhaust restriction. and always fuel pressure and pressure leak down...
easy to check with a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge..
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