|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 3, 2008, 6:34 PM
Post #1 of 15
(1760 views)
|
Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
I'm trying to find the short in the wiring systems, can someone help me please. My vehicle is a 1998 Ford Taurus Lx 3.0 106k miles
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 3, 2008, 7:05 PM
Post #2 of 15
(1756 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
Can you explain what the problem is a bit more? Fuses blowing - some item not working or what?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 4, 2008, 2:56 PM
Post #3 of 15
(1751 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
'98 ford taurus LX 3.0
the starter is new and was replaced because of the current problem. when you try to start it the starter engages but does not get enough power to turn the engine even when trying to jump start it
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 4, 2008, 3:31 PM
Post #4 of 15
(1748 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
Does the engine turn but just too slowly? Quality of jumpers makes a big difference and even using two sets of cheaper ones can help.
If this battery is known good (check on that - age and some parts outlets like AutoZone will check it for free) and still now power to turn engine at a proper speed it might be that cables are just too weak (worn with some breakage inside them unseen) and need replacement or just clean them up now and see the difference.
From there it would take some testing to see how much power get to the starter via voltage drop when trying but you need to know you are dealing with a known, good battery that's fully charged,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 4, 2008, 5:18 PM
Post #5 of 15
(1743 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
the battery is new also the volts go to 0 when trying to start the car. the starter does not turn the engine
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 4, 2008, 6:16 PM
Post #6 of 15
(1739 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
Ok: All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned. This sudden drop to zero volts is probably a very dirty connection - could be at battery OR the opposite ends of the cables - starter or engine block.
Where are you testing (what exact spots) that you see it drop to zero?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 4, 2008, 6:27 PM
Post #7 of 15
(1732 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
testing battery terminals. think it might be the control module
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 4, 2008, 7:19 PM
Post #8 of 15
(1728 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
Never mind any control module. ZERO voltage is a problem. If you test the actual posts of the battery bet you find there's almost no voltage drop and the clamps are not making a good connection + testing voltage at the clamp is dropping but not that battery itself,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 5, 2008, 8:22 AM
Post #9 of 15
(1708 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
its the battery post that i tested not the clamps itself. goes for 12.4 volts to zero volts
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 5, 2008, 9:55 AM
Post #10 of 15
(1702 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
Let's keep at it. Do lights and other items work while this battery is hooked up? Try just with key in "run" position to run blower, RWD, lights, wipers etc., and see what the voltage does.
In order for a battery to drop to ZERO when actually checked at the battery posts as said the load would be a dead short and about smoke wires right away. If requesting the starter can do that alone than any and all wiring at solonoid and on the starter itself needs checking out or replacement if battery can hold it's own in separate testing which it might. Battery could be the problem alone too so testing is mandatory.
If this is a short and that extreme it's already been VERY hard on that new battery.
Note: The starter motor is by far the largest draw on a battery which is why the largest gauge wiring goes directly to starters to cover that load. Smaller wiring would glow with a short as described with a capable battery.....
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 5, 2008, 12:53 PM
Post #11 of 15
(1699 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
did as you said battery was fine. but a wire going to the starter does get hot. also the starter is new too
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 5, 2008, 1:06 PM
Post #12 of 15
(1695 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
If the old starter did this too then it points to the engine being too tight - hope not.
What was wrong with old starter?
The wire getting hot is a great clue - it's taking the current at that ridiculous amount whether the starter is at fault or engine won't budge.
If there's a chance it's the engine then what led up to this? You could try to turn engine by flex handle (large breaker bar with socket) and socket on crankshaft damper for a feel of how tight it is. If just this starter is doing this it could be bad or somehow installed wrong or jammed in locking up engine somehow??
You can make a starter work with jumper cables and a test wire OFF car to see if it spins freely on its own. Doesn't tell how strong it will be but tells that it works without excessive draw - kinda.
For now this problem is likely either the starter or the engine is too tight (you don't want that one - trust me)
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 5, 2008, 1:32 PM
Post #13 of 15
(1690 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
my step father said he got the engine to start but by bypassing something
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 5, 2008, 2:44 PM
Post #14 of 15
(1686 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
That should be what your starter looks like. The pos battery cable should go directly to the top terminal on the top mounted "solonoid" on that model. When key is turned to "start" a smaller wire is empowered to both throw gear to connect to ring gear/flywheel AND turn the starter which in turn, turns the engine.
It key was left in "run" postition AND it was jumped to the lower of the two threaded posts shown above it would partially by-pass an action of the starter and would likely start but stress a small jumper wire. There's another smaller wire there that when empowered any which way is replicating the request from your key which IMO would also make it behave like the key request does which is somehow drawing way too much current.
We are getting there slowly with this. There's something wrong that it can draw so much one way and work when jumped another way??
This suggests wires are touching somewhere that they shouldn't or some screwup I'm not sure of just yet??
The good news is that the engine isn't seized which I was worried about since it does in fact start up.
Is that wiring at the starter ok or rigged up somehow? Again - was that how the old starter behaved also?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mary_tubaugh
Novice
Dec 6, 2008, 3:57 PM
Post #15 of 15
(1670 views)
|
|
Re: Need some help on my Car
|
Sign In
|
|
apparently the car was not started after all. the engine seems to be locked up. because we found the short and its in a wiper/power steering speed sensor circuit. going to pull spark plugs tomorrow and try to turn the engine by hand to see if it is truly locked up.
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
