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PT Cruiser Starter Problems?
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glessd
Novice
Mar 20, 2005, 11:06 AM
Post #1 of 3
(8100 views)
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PT Cruiser Starter Problems?
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Help! My wife's 2001 PT (97,000 miles, was one of the first) just had it's battery replaced. Now with the new battery (after a few weeks) the car barely turns over, clicks, catches, turns over slowly, then starts. I'm thinking the starter or solenoid or a relay needs replacing. How difficult is this for a DIYer, where can I find diagrams or directions? What do I check it with to make sure? Any help is greatly appreciated, with the economy is West Michigan we are once again driveway mechanics. Thanks.
Dave G
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DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2005, 12:56 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Re: PT Cruiser Starter Problems?
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I suggest having your new battery tested, just to make sure it is not defective.
Next would be to check if it is of sufficient size for your vehicle and I don’t mean its physical size, but its cold cranking amperage rating.
All I’m saying is not just assume that the battery is good because it’s new, a defective battery will fail usually after its first few months in service.
Most manufactures give a 5 or 6 year prorated warrantee (which sounds great) with their batteries, but it’s only the first 6 months that it’s a free replacement. They know that if a battery is going to fail it will be right away and if it can get through the first few months it’s good.
I know it sounds like a pain, but have someone do a high rate discharge test and if it happens to fail that a three minute charge test will leave no doubt whether it’s good or not.
After you have done and checked that, we could go on the charging system and starter tests.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
(This post was edited by DanD on Mar 20, 2005, 2:11 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2005, 2:57 PM
Post #3 of 3
(8084 views)
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Re: PT Cruiser Starter Problems?
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Dan has some great info here. To Add...
Put a voltmeter on battery. Should read a touch over 12V. Have someone start the car - it shouldn't drop below about 9V while cranking.
Many batteries are NOT fully charged when new! This can be hard on your alternator when first put it. Really dead batteries should be charged up by a separate charger. Totally dead ones won't charge from the car even if jumped unless both donor and dead car are left with cables on for a while. That's still hard on the dead car!
There is a failure rate for even new batteries. I bet it's rough treatment in shipping that causes most bad ones but I've been thru several.
Make sure your connections are good. It can help to apply grease or something like WD-40 (trademarked) to connections.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) should be at a minimum 450 for your car. Most are higher than that.
If you suspect the battery is NG, and don't trust the place you bought it, Email me, and I'll tell you a trick which I won't put out there for the world to see. Good luck, Tom Greenleaf
PS: Just thought of it.... If you have the voltmeter check and see what you get with the engine running. Should be around 14V then turn on headlights and blower or RWDefroster (high use items) and the volts should NOT drop much below 13.5 at a slightly raised idle. If it does your alternator may already be cooked!
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