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1dodge1mopar
User
Dec 21, 2011, 9:28 PM
Post #1 of 2
(3152 views)
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I HAVE A '92 DAKOTA/3.9 V-6/AUTO/4X2.
I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS STARTING. IT WOULD START JUST FINE @ TIMES...PULL IT OUT OF THE GARAGE...TURN OFF ENGINE...WOULD NOT START. WENT TO THE GROCERY STORE...PARKED...WAITED ON WIFE...TRUCK WOULD NOT START. IN FEELING CONNECTIONS @ STARTER...ENGINE STARTED & DIED WHEN I GOT OUT TO CLOSE THE HOOD. TRIED TO RESTART...FAILED...FOOLED AGAIN WITH CONNECTIONS...WOULD NOT START...PULLED THE WIRING TO THE STARTER UP...TRUCK STARTED...WENT HOME...PARKED IT IN THE GARAGE.
NEXT DAY...STARTED TRUCK IN GARAGE...NO PROBLEM. PULLED OUT OF GARAGE...WAITED 5 MINS ON WIFE & GRANDSONZ TO GO TO FAMLY CHRISTMAS PARTY...TURNED OFF ENGINE TO SAVE GAS. WHEN EVERYONE CAME OUT ABOUT 20 MINS LATER. I COULD...IN NO WAY...GET THE TRUCK TO START-TRIED ALL THE ABOVE...EVEN TAPPED ON IT WITH A HAMMER & REMOVED BOTH BATTERY POSTS & RESEATED.
IN DOING INVESTIGATION...I FOUND "STARTER RELAY" PROBLEMS...TPS PROBLEMS...IAC PROBLEMS...ETC. VISITING ONE ??/ANSWER SITE...I LEARNED ABOUT WHERE THE "STARTER RELAY" WAS LOCATED. I WAS NOT EVEN AWARE OF THIS BOX.
I FOUND IT...REMOVED THE TOP COVER & FOUND A BENT, SINGLE STRAND COPPER WIRE INSERTED INTO TWO POLE POSITIONS OF A "MISSING" RELAY.
I HAD REMOVED THE STARTER & FOUND THE INNER WIRING BLOCK SCREWS WERE SOME LOOSE-THE SMALLER TERMINAL WAS REALLY LOOSE. I REMOVED THE SCREWS & BLOCK & NOTICED CONSIDERABLE RUST/CORROSION @ THE CONNECTIONS.
I TOOK MY DREMEL GRINDER & GROUND ALL THE CONNECTION AREAS TO CLEAN METAL...REASSEMBLED THE STARTER...CONNECTED THE WIRES OFF THE ENGINE...PLACED MY JUMPER CABLE GROUND SIDE WIRE TO THE STARTER BASE...TURNED THE IG. KEY. THE STARTER GEAR KICKED OPEN TO START POSITION, BUT...DID NOT TURN. I WAS EXCITED AT THIS POINT. I TRIED IT SEVERAL TIMES MORE WITH THE SAME RESULT. I JUST KNEW IT HAD TO TURN.
I CHECKED THE BATTERY POSTS. THEY SEEMED SOMEWHAT "DIRTY". CLEANED THE POSTS...REAT'D POSTS...TURNED THE KEY &...VOILA! THE STARTER WORKED. I PUT THE STARTED BACK ON ENGINE & IT WORKS FINE.
I WENT TO OREILLY'S FOR A RELAY TO REPLACE THE WIRE. THEY ONLY HAD 1 "5-POLE" RELAY-THAT HAD A TANG ON IT. I BROKE OFF THE TANG & INSERTED IT INTO THE MISSING RELAY POSITION...TURNED THE KEY...NOTHING!! NO START...NO SOLENOID NOISE...NO CLICKING. I REPLACED THE WIRE AS I FOUND IT...TURNED THE KEY...THE ENGINE STARTED.
I TOOK THE RELAY BACK INTO THE STORE. THEY WOULD NOT TAKE IT BACK-BROKEN TANG. THEY TOLD ME THAT I WAS GETTING CURRENT THROUGH THE WRONG POLE POSITIONS (WITH THE WIRE)-THAT THE RELAY HAD CURRENT THROUGH THE "30" POLE...THAT I HAD ANOTHER "WIRING/POWER" PROBLEM.
IN EXAMENING THE RELAYS...EACH ONE HAD A "WHITE DOT" IN A DIFFERENT SPOT ON EACH ONE. UPON CLOSER EXAMINIZATION...IT APPEARED TO BE ON DIFFERENT POLES ON EACH RELAY.
FROM THIS...I CAN ONLY ASSUME THAT...MAYBE...THESE WHITE DOTS REPRESENT THE 12V CURRENT FLOW POSITION.
CAN ANYONE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE OR GUIDENCE HERE. I'M NOT REAL CONFIDENT IN THE "WIRE" RELAY. IT HAS DONE IT'S JOB FOR OVER 2 YRS & IS PRESENTLY WORKING FOR ME.
THANX
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re-tired
Veteran
/ Moderator
Dec 21, 2011, 10:27 PM
Post #2 of 2
(3120 views)
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Re: STARTER RELAY
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HERE IS SOME INFO ON THE RELAY
**
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RELAY TEST
See Figures 11 and 12
  
Fig. Fig. 11: Location of the power distribution center
The starter relay is in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the underside of the PDC cover for relay location. Remove the starter relay to perform these tests. - A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between 87 and 30. If you find otherwise, replace the relay, otherwise proceed to the next step.
- Check resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet). It should be 70-80 ohms. If not replace the faulty relay. If so, continue to the next step.
- Connect a known good 12 volt battery to terminals 85 and 86. There should be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If not, replace the faulty relay. If so, continue to the relay circuit test.
Fig. Fig. 12: Starter relay connections
RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
See Figure 12 - Check for battery voltage at the starter relay common feed terminal (30). It should be hot at all times. If it is energized, go to the next step. If not, check the circuit to fuse F12 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). repair as required.
- The normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to the next step.
- The normally open terminal (87) is connected to the battery terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If it is energized, go to the next step. If not, repair the circuit to the solenoid as required.
- The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when the ignition switch is in the START position. Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the START position. If it is energized, go to the next step. If not, and the vehicle has an automatic transmission, you will need to check the ignition switch for proper operation. If it is not energized and the vehicle is a 1995-96 models with manual transmission, you will need to check the clutch pedal position switch.
- The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, it is grounded through the park/neutral position switch. On manual transmission models, it is grounded at all times. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not as specified, and the vehicle has a manual transmission, repair the circuit as required. If not as specified and the vehicle has an automatic transmission, you will need to check the park/neutral position switch.
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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