|
|
Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 3, 2019, 10:48 PM
Post #1 of 36
(3017 views)
|
Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hello again, everyone! My wife has a 2003 Stratus 2.4 DOHC Sedan with 145K miles. It runs and drives nicely. We've been happy with the car. The 2 issues we're having may or may not be related.
ISSUE 1:
We've had a code 0344 (Camshaft Position Sensor circuit) for some months now. A google search reveals that it could be...
An open or shorted camshaft position sensor
A faulty camshaft position sensor
Poor electrical connection to the camshaft position sensor
A faulty starter motor
A weak or dead battery
A short in the starting system circuit
...among other possibilities.
It says to resolve try...
Replacing a weak or dead battery
Replacing chafed, melted, or otherwise damaged wiring
Cleaning electrical connections to the camshaft position sensor
Replacing the camshaft position sensor
Replacing the crankshaft position sensor
ISSUE 2 (Possibly related, and possibly not)::
20 AMP Fuse #8 (fuel/start) in the under hood power box blew when attempting start up last week. It continued to blow 20 AMP fuses, but it holds at 25 AMPs. So the car starts and drives fine with the 25 AMP fuse. I don't know why it holds at 25 AMPs, and I suspect that it is not safe to ignore it.
Can someone explain why it doesn't blow a 25 AMP fuse? And can the 2 issues be related? A "short in the starting system circuit" is a possible cause of code 0344, although the fuse just blew now, and the code has been present periodically for months,
Thanks in advance for your help.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 1:37 AM
Post #2 of 36
(3007 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Joezapp: Good to see you.
1st off I see you tried a 25A fuse in a 20A slot - right? Don't do that. It's cover up some issue but stressing out another compounds the problem now or later.
Common denominator is and was listed in your findings - "Weak or dead battery" has to be first to know it's good and hold a full charge. Along with that know its connecitons and terminals are clean and do make note of it's age marked on it this car now about 17 strict watching age of battery and toss early suggested.
No info is going to be trustworthy without that proven all fine first if not the sole issue.
A good test one is good is watch volts just sitting there with all item off. 12.6 +/- tiny deviations just sitting there and again when a load put on it the most will be cranking the engine watch volts drop and will normally just not really below 10V.
If so starter draws too much or battery isn't up to its listed rating anymore. The outside is engine is just too dang tight doesn't seem to be it in this case.
Just that first or IMO not much else counts. Reason over fusing can work but never do that is low volts delivered require more flow or odd but low power burns/overheats the lower amp rated fuse and wires involved. Just rule that out,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 4, 2019, 6:19 AM
Post #3 of 36
(2999 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Thank you, Tom. Good to see you too. Hope all is well.
The battery may indeed be old. We own the car since November 2016 and it's the same battery (and in the wheelwell, lol).
Do you think that the 2 issues could be related? A new battery may resolve both the blowing fuse as well as code 0344?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 6:40 AM
Post #4 of 36
(2995 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Need a starting point with this I just don't trust a blown fuse and code issue until power supplied is on target.
Batteries are marked either clearly or in code embossed in the case of them. If not clear can look it up by that code - they do for warranty and no clear date it was sold.
Watching voltage expounded. Just a good voltmeter can do fine. Unplug hood light if equipped. OK, since you need to get inside disable interior lights can or have a helper already inside it wont crank without brake being applied - or shouldn't.
Low volt delivered can still allow starter to a point if amps are on the line to work. Think of volts as pressure and amps as volume about like a garden hose a tiny ID one vs larger - kind of like that. It matters if you are filling a large pail for water the starter is the pail :-)
Fuse would blow is made to by power forced thru it. Low makes is hotter than higher with about all wire or fuse things.
ExL Don't do this either but try an extension cord for a table lamp to power your mega powerful home A/C unit. Watch that burn up - another example for wire/volts an amps all revolved around power delivered from a battery - the battery or any connections of it also.
You said it runs fine which is good so set me off on why the fuse blows if over-fused.
That isn't the fix for just that simply must be first thing to quit and find out why or IMO the rest isn't going to be credible it's running fine but that's a warning it's not right.
OK?
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 4, 2019, 6:50 AM
Post #5 of 36
(2995 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Thank you, Tom. I see your point. Thanks for your time and the explanation!
(This post was edited by joezapp on Jun 4, 2019, 8:31 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 7:14 AM
Post #6 of 36
(2991 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Yuk - those locations! Just to look, clean terminals for those you know now nobody does that.
That didn't bother the design engineer one bit he/she will never mess with one but it fit there.
Again, I'm going on it runs OK except this code still runs fine, right? I'm just stuck on that first may have nothing to do with it or the whole issue can't know.
My analogies again: Someone tells you a light bulb is out of many in some fixture (home crap) with multiple bulbs but you go being the nice guy and it's a power outage so now what? Hope for looks of a bad one. Nope not sure so do them all? Nope, power came back on it was the socket not bulbs at all.
Good luck now that battery just needs service, rustproof any hold-down fasteners even if you kept it and move on this issue is somewhere else you found something that needs doing just saying that with NOTHING wrong.
I'm looking for a starting point it's unknown if the problem or not to me so far. It was listed high even on the flow chart/list of things to check YOU provided,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 8:12 AM
Post #7 of 36
(2982 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
That fuse operates the starter relay and the fuel pump relay so you could have a fuel pump going bad but it has nothing to do with the cam sensor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 4, 2019, 9:10 AM
Post #8 of 36
(2974 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
"I'm going on it runs OK except this code still runs fine, right?"
Well, Tom, Sometimes when the check engine light illuminates, there is a momentary bucking/loss of power. Lasts just a few seconds in drive and otherwise feels normal. Can go many days, even a few weeks, before experiencing that condition again. But it IS clear that the trouble code is coming up for that very condition.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 10:39 AM
Post #9 of 36
(2968 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
OK. So the same list you posted for just the code now more relevant still doesn't mean a crank sensor - look for wires there and plug in spots not good.
Here's that list YOU posted was good advice and still is...…..
">>Replacing a weak or dead battery
Replacing chafed, melted, or otherwise damaged wiring
Cleaning electrical connections to the camshaft position sensor
Replacing the camshaft position sensor
Replacing the crankshaft position sensor <<"
Smile - I still want to vomit at the thought of getting the battery out which should be on your list anyway concentrate on water proof lube on all hold-down items. OMG what a nightmare for any never mind where that one is!
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 10:48 AM
Post #10 of 36
(2964 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
The cam sensor is a pretty common failure on these.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 4, 2019, 2:07 PM
Post #11 of 36
(2950 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hi Hammer Time. So is the crank sensor. And in the case of the cam sensor, I hear that sometimes these cars "don't like" the aftermarket sensors. The difference in price between a Mopar and a Dorman is quite wide, but sometimes only the Mopar will work
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 4, 2019, 2:25 PM
Post #12 of 36
(2938 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
I've changed a lot of them and never had a problem with aftermarket.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 4, 2019, 3:27 PM
Post #13 of 36
(2933 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Good to know, Hammer Time, because I'd rather buy the Dorman, lol.
But first I intend on changing the battery. Thanks, Tom! This will be my first time changing a wheel-well battery, so it will have to be a job for Saturday morning due to the learning curve. I can see a portion of it under the headlight socket. A small Interstate battery is all I could tell before I wanted to vomit. I plan to smile while I'm removing it! I agree that getting a new battery in there to assure full power is job 1.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 5, 2019, 2:34 AM
Post #14 of 36
(2908 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Let's roll: Glad to hear HT approves of Dorman (aftermarket) for the sensor. IDK if "Dorman" sold their name or what nor anyone else's name anymore. They were top shelf once at least.
Onward to keep this car if the mission: Battery, fuel tank and lines. You can't do anything if no electricity or fuel since cars are miles of wiring and so dependent on correct it's just a must.
To have on hand for "bitchy" work this isn't the only thing: PB for rusted/corroded fasteners. At least something to hold the dang one use snap plastic buttons for assorted inner fender shield in this case look around for where correct ones are.
Electrical anything: Have "dielectric" grease ready is water proof and doesn't harm rubber or plastic crap much or at all. Flux brush that all over thread of metal things near exposure to water or the battery area so it will come out like nothing another time.
New to me when you bust plastic stuff: A new version of brand GooP II tolerates heat, waterproof and wild temps extremes is great glue or can seal like a washer fluid bottle also they hide those things need to remove fenders, engines (close anyway) and of course a pump at the bottom hard to do without.
Trick: PB doesn't come with a spray tube?? Brand Gummout carb cleaner's nozzle fits those cans and Gummout by brand is a better cleaner in general not just throttle bodies. Keep all things off or nice paint some eat right thru it.
Other is be pro-active with lubing latches, cables, hinges all over a vehicle! OMG some if broken are impossible. Trust me how nice to find broken glove box latch left a light on and killed your car over it! Go easy - Q-Tip the moving parts so there's no mess.
You need time more than $$ but can really do yourself favors for later or never have the problems even better,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 8, 2019, 3:36 PM
Post #15 of 36
(2884 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hi Tom. Thanks for the tips. Have you ever tried gorilla glue? I'm amazed at the plastic stuff that holds up with it.
So this is how it goes with me sometimes. The jerky punched out both the "2" and the "6" on the battery, so this 75-month Interstate battery is either 3 or 7 years old (month May). The engraved coding may indicate that the "2" is correct. But that aside, my readings are good. I'm getting 12.85 as my reading, and 10.50 with a load on. My connections are very clean. It's a side terminal battery and the terminals are rubber protected. So based on these readings, isn't it safe to assume that my issues have nothing to do with the battery, and I should move on to the next step?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 8, 2019, 6:15 PM
Post #16 of 36
(2864 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hmmm? Glues and products with the Gorilla name brand? I've tried their insane sticky "duct" tape and a wood glue only so far. Not please with the two I chose the bottle for glue can't seal and is always impossible to use an old Elmer's didn't have a problem?
Tape had so much gum was dark brown or black to patch just a tarp I needed caught just some sunlight and slipped off on it's own gum? NO. Other products may be wonderful have to be your own judge and test away.
BTW - That Goop II is fairly universal. Wide known temp ranges stays without busting and the slightest bit flexible for a vehicle is helpful.
Age of battery: When in doubt and seems there's some with 2 holes removed means only date it was sold for warranty once you were supposed to have that done at time of purchase. How old unknow still policy is toss new batteries by 1 year old by some sellers paying strict attention? Remarking them is a maybe but the embossed in plastic on a side is the month and year plus can find out where it was made!
Your test is showing you either tested battery with no load soon after shutting down an engine really should never be over 12.6V and stay there by itself nor be under 12.5 or so for error not much different than those #s.
Your 10.5 under starter motor load without engine starting is the spot so meter or gauge has to be fast. If 12.85 was after 30 minutes of any charging that meter must be off so if off there discount the load volts and unknown. Dag nabbit need two of everything till you know which things are accurate! Hate that just today about to toss two tire pressure gauges of some 20 I must have time to throw them all out - tire places do constantly TMK but do they?
Side post use. No problems just needs attention same as top post and kept greased, repeatedly if any splash of water in this case gets at it kind of bet the cable ends are replaced already at the battery.
Batteries usually come with plastic in at least positive side post hole and a cover over top posts if both have both. Cable ends usually should protect at least positive end over either type so a tool or tip over it can't short out - that's plain dangerous.
All that you want and need the date to know just by time when to get rid of it working perfectly or not the surprise failures on a graph like going down drops off at 3-4 years no matter who makes it! It's in control of so much in a vehicle just deserves attention once wet with acid the clock starts ticking on the things.
******************************************
ALL THAT AND SAY THAT OFTEN ON BATTERIES: The word is I don't trust your meter so please compare it with another it needs some known standard to know it's correct of this isn't valid yet - sorry,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jun 8, 2019, 11:26 PM
Post #17 of 36
(2854 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hi Tom. Haven't tried any other Gorilla products. But the glue is amazing.
So the car wasn't started in 24 hours when I ran the test. It came up 12.85 using both a meter and a load tester (before load turned on). A YouTube video showed a guy come up with a 12.97, so I don't think my reading is abnormal? I read that the meter reading will change by with every 10 degree change in temperature, and it was almost 80 degrees Saturday.
For the record, I also tested a battery I know to be weak, and it came up 12.39 using both the meter and the load tester.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 9, 2019, 3:51 AM
Post #18 of 36
(2844 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
What are you "load testing" it with? A machine/device or putting an actual load on it?
It's true a real 80F temp is about the peak temp for a battery. High extremes harm them and low temps also lower the AMP power precipitously as it goes below 32F. That is for a common lead/acid automotive battery even sealed ones now called AGM type. They look like a SIX pack of soda/beer shape and now just rectangle too.
Your readings may be OK and not the problem at all right now. Stop here if you want I'll say what happens using a bad battery in vehicles or machines that self re-charge their own when running - below, Tom
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Low battery power (AMPs) - delivered can make heat while under real load at the weakest spot not unlike a chain of metal being pulled on till it breaks.
With assorted electrical monitoring via sensors now everywhere controlled by engine and body control modules that is converted down to the 5V. When or if the weak link can't pass thru the amps in typical cars/trucks CRANKING is the high load for real at that particular vehicle/thing. During that time many things shut down just seconds or more during that load most engines - any fuel types will and should start quickly and the first time. Additional cranking time is harmful to starting motors IMO the #1 cause for them to fail.
Almost all machines and vehicles use alternators now when the engine starts and key or button (talking machines in general) let go take over to charge right back what the cranking only took out keeping it in a range the items deal with usually running will be 13V-14.5V +/- still temp dependent.
A low battery or if close to dead for any reason will make alternators charge the max they are able to for long up to dangerously too long and they overheat doing so and burn out sooner. That spike of work isn't controlled well in much of anything! Those spikes cause harm to other items that use it in this case a car highly computer controlled including how hard the alternator works and regulated voltage outputs! Yikes !!
On, and on and on: The end all is a battery is perishable? My analogy is much like a head of lettuce is peeling off a leaf little by little till there isn't much or any left. Even that if you don't tough them at all go bad over time no matter what you do?
Oh joy and we all count of this stuff constantly. None of this stuff like temp extremes, too much humidity, vibrations or trauma of any kind. Add salts (used in most areas where roads can freeze snow, ice, a rain or humidity on surface of where your vehicle is driving on sprays that everywhere destroys the surface (road materials) and everything the uses it.
So bad where I am the guard rails rust out as well as road signs! Yup - that bad and we expect a lot of things to just stay working?
Do be careful about video demonstrations pictures and testimonials plus advertising of anything. It's just not "vetted" information some is plain false by mistake or worse intended to mislead you! Scary,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 PM
Post #19 of 36
(2722 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Thanks for the explanation, Tom, as always! I actually just learned what you said. High temp extreme is worse than low temp extreme for a battery provided that the car is started regularly in winter. I didn't know that!
I want to update where I'm at with this. I'm convinced that this battery is still good based on multi-meter test and load-tester machine test, which both agree. So changing the battery will be a last resort at this point.
I went ahead and purchased a Dorman Cam Sensor, and it seems to have resolved the "check engine light" issue. I have found that these commonly fail on the Stratus, as Hammer Time confirmed. It was a couple weeks until I installed the Cam Sensor because, as luck would always have it, the first delivery was the wrong part!
Now I'm onto the resolution of the short. The 25 amp fuse blows now also (20 amp slot), and of course it was only a matter of time with that. The short was secondary for me because the car was due for inspection, and it wouldn't pass with the check engine light on. And of course, the computer has to be ready first in order to get a sticker, and in order for it to be ready the car must be driven. So it became a matter of 2 top priorities, and which was the bigger one.
There was a lot of information online about this IGN/START/FUEL fuse blowing, and the trouble-shooting to narrow it down. It is a common issue on the Stratus. It could be the wiring, a relay, the solenoid/starter, ignition switch, etc. Working on it with my mechanic friend tomorrow morning. I even got the wiring diagram and the relay labels online (the power center cover just shows numbers). I'll report back on what we find.
Thanks again to everyone on this site for always providing such great help and genuine concern!
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jul 29, 2019, 8:02 PM
Post #20 of 36
(2554 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Hi Guys. Thought I probably should continue on here rather than start a new thread. I resolved the Check Engine light by way of a new cam sensor and the car has passed inspection. Runs terrific, too. Thank you!
I am now dealing only with a short on the FUSE 8 circuit (START/IGNITION/FUEL). 20 AMP Fuse 8 pops when the key is turned to the crank position. It does not ever pop in RUN.
I've narrowed this down quite a bit. The fuse only blows with the starter relay PLUGGED IN (even with fuel relay out). That means that the issue is in the starting system circuit. 90% of the time, the starter is faulty, and replacing it resolves the issue. As luck would have it, I'm in the 10%. Changed the starter, but the starter is fine and tests fine, and the fuse still pops.
From what I can see through the Fuse 8 wiring diagram, there is not much left. Basically just the brown tire that connects to the starter.
My mechanic friend had the car for a day, did some testing, and changed the oxygen sensor (seemed OK to do, some have reported that to be the cause) and the ignition switch (seemed pointless to me based on the circuitry). The car started for 2 weeks and reverted right back.
He tells me from here he would like to replace the whole Engine Wiring Harness, as it's easier than taking the time to track the brown wire. He says the brown wire goes from the starter to the ignition switch and then to the Power Distribution Center (engine fuse box).
Do you guys agree with him? Just change the whole harness rather than follow and inspect the brown wire? And is there something else to definitely consider that I'm overlooking?
Thanks in advance!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 30, 2019, 2:13 AM
Post #21 of 36
(2537 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
OK - There's a lot to read this whole thread just might do better with a new thread? So your mechanic wants to do a whole harness but you/and he seem to know it's this brown wire (is that the trigger wire?) is being a pest?
If I'm reading this right I'd probably want to "overlay" ((New section of a new wire spliced in for just that one vs whole harness. I can't say what you/he will find for new and consideration of how it's all help in place I don't expect all that stuff to come apart or out without some kit just for that and it's a 2003?
It's not worth butting heads with a mechanic with a plan but seems you know this issue pretty well diagram in hand still isn't detailing how it's routed or how just concerns me changing it all may open new problems over ONE wire!
If he thinks that wire is rubbing unseen in the maze of wire that disappears thru harness I can see the reasoning just worry about how disruptive it is to remove whole old and what else gets bumped or pulled in doing that.
Worth more discussion with the one that chose that route and why. Stinks stuff runs out of sight and comes back out (almost anything like that) vs just new ONE and carefully run so it's well protects for the suspect area?
Do you have time estimates for doing this either way? I fear it somehow may not work and that effort just wasted?
Guess it's your call on a joint understanding,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jul 30, 2019, 6:15 AM
Post #22 of 36
(2526 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
I'm with ya', Tom! It was my thinking that this is too narrowed down to make the decision to get that disruptive. Bypassing the brown wire with a new one sounds like the better choice to me, as long as we can get the routing nailed down. The wiring diagram for the fuse isn't clear about the routing of the wire. It's just clear about what circuitry is on the fuse. Thanks, as always!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 30, 2019, 6:51 AM
Post #23 of 36
(2522 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
Mostly chat now for this reply:
Yes - Diagrams show every detailed wire by color where it goes ON FLAT PAPER? When in a vehicle just how did one or a cluster get from point A to point B avoiding red hot engine parts, road spray of water and moving parts? That you look at.
They sell all sorts of wire holding and protective things for heat, moisture, vibrations and so they don't scuff each other.
A long time FAIL is it had to unplug and plug in again or fastened? Plastic crap with heat and age is like egg-shell busts in your hands doesn't stay stuck together now what?
Those are usually greased when new and when opened or just removed for other work that OE seal is violated. It just means NOT messing with stuff just for fun can be a good thing.
Assorted words for one known wire that is "contiguous" meaning same wire start to finish. "Overlay" is one word for cutting it at each end with enough to strip off insulation to an exact type and rated wire best if soldered AND a shrink wrap covering to seal the splice run that along as much as possible where the failed one went.
It's the beginning of "hacking" up the car but can work and maybe even better? Tie that out of any harm's way. Most if with many inside the plastic snake stuff I wouldn't chase thru cause more problems than solved.
Just look at what wire has to do: Go thru unreal cold and still bend, unreal hot and not burn up and or constant bending with moving things like your engine moves on rubber mounts.
Throw in high speed water splash and really add insult to injury expose all that to rock salt all at once SUPRISE ANYTHING WORKS A DAY!
So with the suggestion of putting in a whole new harness I just fear where that plugs in all over everywhere could be the next issue if it was new fine - but when it was new there wasn't an engine in the way or much else changes what I'd do if I understand this whole project of ONE wire!
That would sum it up for me but all respect for another's approach I'm NOT there looking at the scene YOU and the Mechanic HAVE beats this dissertation every time :-)
Tom
|
|
| |
|
|
joezapp
User
Jul 30, 2019, 3:19 PM
Post #24 of 36
(2499 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
You're absolutely right, Tom. I agree 100%. This is too narrowed down to mess with a replacement of the harness. I would fully expect another problem to arise from that. I agree that carefully and professionally replacing and routing that one wire is the way to go. True that the wiring diagram shows the color on FLAT PAPER. I believe the wire goes from the fuse #8 in the Power Distribution Center (engine fuse box), through the ignition switch, and to the starter. The only other wire that connects to the starter is the red hot wire. And from what I read, if it's not the starter (90% of the time it is, I'm in the 10%), then fuse 8 blows due to a defect in a wire connecting to the starter (once fuel circuit has been ruled out, and it has). So that is where I'm headed with this, with your protective suggestions.
While the car is 2003, it has only 150,000 miles, runs well, the engine is strong, the transmission is strong, the trouble codes are resolved, and the car has no dents (could use paint). Hate to get rid of it over this, but it has to start before it will run! And it runs well. Keeping fingers crossed and will report back. Thanks, as always!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 30, 2019, 4:04 PM
Post #25 of 36
(2492 views)
|
|
Re: Trouble code, Fuse blowing
|
|
|
OK again. If any wire's end part is the issue still would look for making just the new end so it doesn't cause a problem. If we were talking about making a restoration of some super rare something isn't this game so I wouldn't want to even work that hard for could be done, safe and work fine.
Any of it "meeting of minds" and intentions with tech or just on your own a real fix just not for show reasons?
Of course it's supposed to work and be the end of that problem no short cuts how it's help. Common sense for what it is this and other things,
Tom
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2011 Dodge Nitro OBD scanner seems to drain battery in 10-20 minutes
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
Howdy
1
