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wee cough
New User
Dec 18, 2017, 4:53 AM
Post #1 of 8
(1467 views)
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I've got a '05 Landrover Freelander td4 that keeps blowing the passenger side tail and brake lamp. Upon inspection I have continuity between all three wires; though it's the same on the driver's side, which doesn't blow bulbs. I've checked for obvious breaks or chaffing, to no avail.
I'm also concerned that the continuity to earth will damage the ecu; though I can't get a reading on the current involved, only that there is contact. I have cut and separated the wires, and removed the tow-bar wiring.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 18, 2017, 5:01 AM
Post #2 of 8
(1463 views)
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No, you aren't "blowing" bulbs. There is nothing that can cause that however you could have an issue in the light causing a poor connection to the bulb.
You should be testing for power and ground arriving at the socket when this happens.
Chances are, it's just the socket that is bad.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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wee cough
New User
Dec 19, 2017, 3:35 AM
Post #3 of 8
(1435 views)
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No, you aren't "blowing" bulbs. There is nothing that can cause that however you could have an issue in the light causing a poor connection to the bulb.
You should be testing for power and ground arriving at the socket when this happens.
Chances are, it's just the socket that is bad.
That was my first thought, nice'n'easy to fix, but not so. The socket is fine, and there is continuity between the two lives and the earth, when the socket is disconnected. I also watched the bulb get very, very hot, and then all milky, when I had my wife push on the brake when the lights were on.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 19, 2017, 5:35 AM
Post #4 of 8
(1430 views)
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Off the wall thought. This exact version of this vehicle isn't sold to the US/Canada that I know of but is all over the place.
First - quit just checking continuity check for voltage at the socket. This should be a very old fashioned type bulb if similar to those sold now is round I would normally just name it an 1157 for dual filaments and 1156 for single filament.
Admit I'm wildly guessing but you should see 12v or real close at the socket and the bulb should say either 12V(maybe more digits) or 6V(maybe more also) which was and is still used for camping battery light bulbs and would fit and blow just like you described.
This picture may not show just hope for reference and confirm this type or close........
> 
Can you see the 12V marking? The nubs are placed so you shouldn't be able to put those in improperly one nub higher than the other and is for a dual I just call a camping light bulb by a 6V battery.
UK vehicles kept 6V vehicles (ones that were designed and to be sold assorted places other than US) that were 6V lots longer, why I don't know.
Check voltage first, bulb out and check that it's the correct bulb if only to rule that out. Wouldn't happen here auto parts outlets almost wouldn't sell 6V bulbs unless you ordered them special or if just matching up the looks of one however you bought them or where you get them could easily be the wrong bulb and explain this.
Yup - both were used here but that ended in the 1950s the UK vehicles just put in 2 6V batteries in series (for a while) to meet US requirements for only 12V plain bulbs. That still ended by about 1969. Sorry - off on a tangent that's so long ago but was working making that mistake burning up bulbs right away that was the problem,
T
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wee cough
New User
Dec 24, 2017, 3:45 AM
Post #6 of 8
(1396 views)
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Thanks for the help, sorry it took a while to get back. Strangely enough, I had a box of ten faulty bulbs; all the glasses were slightly loose. I bought a box as I anticipated a short, which was also why I tested continuity.
As you were spot on, maybe you could put the cherry on top, and explain why continuity doesn't matter. It seems counter-intuitive to me; like cooling a marine engine with salt water.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 24, 2017, 4:19 AM
Post #7 of 8
(1394 views)
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That's happened to me unfortunately a hair puller when it's NOT your fault or doing something wrong. Thanks for the follow up I'll close out as solved and better luck to you for no more of that bull,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Dec 24, 2017, 4:20 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 24, 2017, 5:40 AM
Post #8 of 8
(1386 views)
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The reason continuity doesn't matter is because it really doesn't prove anything that would be helpful. The thing that proves whether the circuit is working is whether you have both power and ground arriving at the socket. Those are the only 2 things that matter.
You could have a whole bunch of wires melted together and still test continuity as good. It means nothing.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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