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Code P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1
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DanVanClam
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Feb 20, 2024, 1:49 PM
Post #1 of 16
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Code P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1
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2004 Ford E-350 Super Duty Ext Cargo Van w/ 6.8L V10
I have a CEL and the code it's throwing is P0193. Did some digging online and it looks like I'm going to need to replace the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, which is a pretty easy repair for DIY
Called my local Ford dealer to get the OEM part#, (which is 3F2Z9G756AC) and they told me the part cost $184... then when I go on Ebay to buy the part myself, it's only like $19...
(here's a link to the part I'm going to buy on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/155996898183)
My question is... what gives? Is the Ford dealership really that big of a ripoff? Or is this part on Ebay a fake or ripoff even though it says its OEM/Made in Germany, seems legit, etc
I want to do the repair myself for as reasonable a price as possible, but I don't want to accidentally get suckered into buying some cheep Chinese knockoff that could cause more problems for my vehicle down the line
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks
(This post was edited by DanVanClam on Feb 23, 2024, 2:41 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 20, 2024, 3:46 PM
Post #2 of 16
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Re: Huge Part Price difference between Dealer and Ebay?
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Something isn't making any sense here.
First, that looks like a MAP sensor, not a fuel rail sensor.
I searched your part number and that same part comes up but if I go to a Ford parts site and put in the year, make, model and engine size, not part comes up.
Have you located and compared the part. I looked in the factory service manual and can't come up with a part number or even a picture of it.
I'm doubting if this truck even has one. They are only used on variable, returnless fuel systems and this truck doesn't seem to have that system.
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(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Feb 20, 2024, 3:52 PM)
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DanVanClam
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Feb 21, 2024, 2:48 PM
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Re: Huge Part Price difference between Dealer and Ebay?
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First of all, thank you for your help! You are a cool guy.
Anyway, I did some digging and I agree, things are not adding up.
I called my ford dealer again to make sure I got the right part number, and they basically are drawing the same conclusion as you, this vehicle shouldn't
have a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
I might have a better lead though. I'd already brought the vehicle into a repair shop a few weeks back to diagnose the problem, and they sent me a video
of them jiggling the wire that connects to this sensor. The voltages spiked, and went all over the place when they did this, thus throwing the
code (P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1)
Using that video, I was able to locate the part myself. It's actually very easily accessible and basically right in front of you when you take the doghouse off.
Snapped a few pics of the sensor and attached them
I also called this repair shop and asked them for the part they would have replaced it with if I'd have had them do the repair.
They said it was a Echlin 2260004
Looked that up and was able to find this aftermarket part from Napa
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB2260004
It's a $90 part, which is more in line with what I was thinking it would be
Soooo, maybe this is the right part? I have no idea. I'm new to the whole DIY scene, so any sagely advice is much appreciated
Thank you again
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Feb 21, 2024, 3:02 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 21, 2024, 3:02 PM
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Re: Huge Part Price difference between Dealer and Ebay?
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I don't know. It still doesn't make sense.
I had to delete your pictures as they were way too large and I couldn't even read the text. Use our software to reduce them more than 50% and repost them so I can see where that part goes.
I just looked through the entire wiring diagram for the engine management system and it doesn't show any fuel pressure sensor. I'll look at the pictures again when you repost them.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Feb 21, 2024, 3:06 PM)
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DanVanClam
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Feb 21, 2024, 4:54 PM
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Sorry about that, here's the two pics again at 50%
I'll go take the doghouse off again tomorrow and take a more zoomed out pic and circle the sensor so you can tell where it is
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Hammer Time
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Feb 21, 2024, 5:01 PM
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That does seem to be the part you are pricing. It doesn't even appear to be attached to the fuel rail.
Something you said earlier about wiggling the wire triggering the code could mean this is more of a wiring problem than a sensor problem. I might try to get a replacement pigtail to replace that connector first or at least include it with a sensor if you decide to go that route right away.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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DanVanClam
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Feb 22, 2024, 10:19 AM
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I'll probably at least buy that part then and replace it.
Before I do that though, I think I should ask a more big picture question...
is this really a serious issue worth fixing?
The van seems to be preforming normally. The only way I can tell something
is wrong is because of the CEL and code. It's a pretty old vehicle at this
point , and I have no intension of selling it, so resale value is not a concern.
Am I crazy to think "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
The repair shop I'm dealing with seems to be one that want's to sell me on
everything they possibly can, so of course they say it's serious... but I
would love a second opinion on this before devoting more time and energy to it
PS - I also sent you a direct message with a link to my vehicle inspection in case that helps
(This post was edited by DanVanClam on Feb 22, 2024, 10:27 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 22, 2024, 12:41 PM
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I saw the video. As a rule we don't use private message as we want this to be public but in this case it was fine.
I'm even more sure that this is a wiring problem at the plug now. The reason it seems to drive fine is because at the moment it is only glitching momentarily and the computer is picking up on that. It is an important sensor because the PCM uses the reading to regulate fuel mixture so it is very important. It just hasn't totally failed yet.
He recommended the same thing I did, replace both the plug and the sensor. I would say the plug is the bigger priority in this situation. You can buy a pigtail at the dealer and even some aftermarket sources which consists of the plug and about a foot of wire to splice into the harness. They are not expensive.
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DanVanClam
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Feb 23, 2024, 2:39 PM
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That's great news!  I'll just start by replacing the plug/wire then
I do have experience with basic soldering, so I might be able to do it myself, but
since it is an important job, I'm thinking I'd better leave it to the professionals.
I'll call around and get some estimates. Hopefully I can get a better price than
the $550 (just for the plug/wire) quoted to me by the shop that did the inspection
Maybe I could even take the new pigtail/wire into an electrician and have them do
it for cheaper than an auto shop, since car repair prices seem to be so crazy right now
In any case, I'll get the plug replaced and report back here in a few days to let
yall know if that fixed it
PS - I've also edited the subject line of this thread to more accurately
describe the problem we ended up diagnosing here
(This post was edited by DanVanClam on Feb 23, 2024, 2:43 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Feb 23, 2024, 2:44 PM
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It's not difficult to replace the plug. They will give you about a foot of wire, probably all the same color. You just have to match the wire colors with the position on the old plug.
Twist the stripped wire together before soldering and use "heat shrink" over the top for insulation.
Here's a video. It's a bit of overkill but all correct.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxqZJH3SfN4
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Feb 23, 2024, 2:53 PM)
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DanVanClam
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Feb 29, 2024, 11:23 AM
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I called 3 different Ford dealers and none of them were able to find the part (the pigtail).
The vehicle is 20 years old at this point, so it makes sense. And the problem of not being
able to find the right pigtail is compounded by people not even knowing what I'm
talking about... so basically it's the same problem you had with not thinking my vehicle
should even have a fuel rail pressure sensor
Because of this, I couldn't even get a part number for the pigtail, so it's looking pretty
unlikely that I'll be able to find it OEM or even aftermarket
I also got quotes for having a mechanic just repair the wire/pins, since that seems
to be what most shops are saying they would do anyway if I just brought it in and had
them do the work
Lowest quote I got was $180 for the diagnostic, and then if the problem is what
we think it is, they can roll that fee into the price of the repair, and basically just do it
for the $180. That's a heck of a lot better than the $550 the other place quoted me, and
I can actually afford that so I'm alright with that, and at this point I'm thinking I'll
probably just have to go with that route
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Hammer Time
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Feb 29, 2024, 11:26 AM
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Another option would be to go to a scrap yard and get a used one to splice in.
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DanVanClam
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Mar 14, 2024, 10:06 AM
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Alright, I've made some progress. Turns out the pigtail is fine, and it's a
bad sensor. I took it to the shop and they were able to do some testing
and bypass the sensor, and that fixed it. I figure if it's just the sensor, I
can save some money and replace it myself.
So now, today, I finally got around to pulling the part off, and comparing
it to the new one. I can verify that it's for sure a bad sensor because with
the part in had, if I shake it, I can hear something rattling around inside.
I tried to get the OEM part, not an aftermarket one, but I did get it on
eBay for $20. My concern now is that the replacement part I bought might
not be legit. There's no writing on it, and it doesn't say GERMANY on it. I've
attached some comparison photos.
With the part in hand, I was able to find an exact match for the old part as all
the writing matches, it's this one...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4495119&cc=0&pt=6376
But that part I just linked above also gives an alternate inventory number (3F2Z9G756AC)
which matches the new one I have... which is this part...
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13983457&cc=1427611&pt=6376&jsn=1048
So am I being overly paranoid in thinking it might be a knock off? I have everything
taken apart right now, so it's tempting to just plug it in and see if it works, but
I thought I'd take a moment and hopefully get a second opinion before doing that.
The new part appears to be identical to the old one aside from it having no writing on it.
(This post was edited by DanVanClam on Mar 14, 2024, 10:09 AM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 14, 2024, 10:13 AM
Post #14 of 16
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Same part, different manufacturer. The original was made by Bosch and the new one was made elsewhere, probably China. That's where most of the parts are made now anyway.
It's not going to be the quality of a Bosch but should still work.
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DanVanClam
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Mar 14, 2024, 1:17 PM
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Ok cool. I installed the new sensor and took it for a short test drive
around the block. So far so good! I'll try to remember to report back
here in about 3 months or so to confirm that the issue did not come
back, or the new (cheap Chinese) sensor didn't fail and cause me
more headaches.
All in all, the testing at the shop cost $180, and the sensor was $20,
so $200 total for the job. The original quote I got was $900, so I'm
very happy to have done this myself and saved $700 which I really
really need right now!
Thank you SO much Hammer Time for all your expertise and advise.
Could not have done it without you.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 14, 2024, 1:20 PM
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You're welcome
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