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BCR
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Mar 26, 2009, 10:38 AM
Post #1 of 7
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1980 Honda Accord
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My 1980 Honda Accord was running very rough, and stalling when I stopped at a light. I checked all vacuum hoses, replace ones cracked. Still had the problem. The car would run when cold, but stalled at lights, and hesitated when running at 2000 RPM in 4th gear. When I closed off the vac hose from the carburetor to the shot air valve, it ran perfect. My thinking is that there is something in that valve not operating right. Can it be cleaned? I have checked for a replacement, none are available, except in Europe for 211 Euros. For that, I'll just drive the car bypassing the valve.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 26, 2009, 12:38 PM
Post #2 of 7
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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What "air valve" are you referring to? If a choke item you kinda need it. Quite likely better off plugged for the moment than leaking but need to know what valve you are dealing with, -- a diaphragm, tree valve, temp sensor valve??
T
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BCR
User
Mar 26, 2009, 1:13 PM
Post #3 of 7
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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Here is a link to a diagram for the vacuum tubing for an 87 Carburetor. The "valve" is in the same position as my 1980 version. It's ref#6 on this diagram, called a "Shot Air Valve". The hose I disconnected is the large one leading to the carburetor. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/engine/e__0201~1987~honda~civic~3dr_dx_1500~4at~ka~carburetor~tubing.html
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 26, 2009, 1:40 PM
Post #4 of 7
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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I looked at the diagram and can't figure out what the heck it's really for from that and not sure what #6 was in the drawing.
Ok: the vac hose goes to it - where does it go from there - perhaps that will help me/us??
T
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BCR
User
Mar 26, 2009, 2:11 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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This link shows the tube diagram better. It's for the 1980 make and model Honda Accord. The tube I cut and capped was #18 on this diagram. There are a total of three tubes coming out of this valve, the third is a large diameter tube that hooks into the underside of the air filter. The mechanic who helped me says that this shot air valve is basically a PCV type valve. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/engine/e__0201~1980~honda~accord~3dr_lx~5mt~ka~fuel~tubing.html
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 26, 2009, 2:49 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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I'm not a bunch of help for this so I'll just state some generalities.
If plugging a PCV valve which is a metered vacuum leak improves the whole show then there probably is another vacuum leak making it leaking excessive.
Hose (vacuum) that go to air cleaner are either sensing air temp inside the area which in turn decide whether hot air off exhaust manifold should be used as incoming air or cooler ambient air. They can also be delays for choke pull offs and when the first hint of warm air is in air cleaner assy the pull off might open more.
Other hoses to air filter housing would be for filtered air return to replace what a PCV would suck out of crankcase air instead of just what's out there dirty air.
I'm at a loss to advise much on this. If this device is leaking vacuum (air) from where it shouldn't you should get a reaction by spraying carb cleaner at the item with engine idling and idle would change. It shouldn't. Use care spraying carb cleaner around as it can catch fire so use all precautions and not to do that with a really hot engine.
If a needed part with a diaphragm is leaking and shouldn't most can be pried open and the rubber fixed with liquid Neoprene sold as "wet suit glue" or more commly as liquid electrical tape - brush in cap type thing. These should tolerate heat AND be oil resistant while sealing and staying flexible.
I've fixed some expensive junk like that, that wasn't intended to come apart but could be recrimped closed again.
More: If by plugging that thing all runs great now but if the PCV system can't work the vapors will really pollute the oil in the engine as it needs to be vented for fresher air above oil to some degree. Way back when prior to PCV a tube just went to the ground and oil filler caps were vented to let air in - laugh - that ended in 1963 for gosh sake - I'm getting old!
Just off the cuff: A lot of emission controls for early 80s were trying to warm up engine asap and shut down chokes asap as well as the cold run time is big on pollutants. There is also some system to catch vapors from gas tank and possibly the vapor area over fuel in carb to be absorbed in a charcoal canister and allowed back into intake for burning and disallowing venting at all will cause issues like fuel pump can't fight against a vacuum or fuel can't enter carb properly as the air space over it is sealed up tight. That equates to sealing the top of a toilet tank after flushed and the water can't come in unless the air can vent out the cover - carbs and toilet tanks have some things in common!
You have the Honda part # and that particular site didn't have the item which is still uncertain to me if it's broken or not but for stuff like that - literally go to real parts stores and ask with the #s in hand. The stuff is out there - it's just not all so easy to find on the web.
Good luck with it. Let us know if you find out more about this thing,
T
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BCR
User
Mar 26, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #7 of 7
(4681 views)
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Re: 1980 Honda Accord
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Thanks Tom, I'll yank the valve off and see if it's fixable. Good point on checking the stores. I tried first through a dealer, and they didn't even know what the part was... course, the car is probably older than he is.
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