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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2009, 8:19 AM
Post #1 of 12
(1961 views)
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93 olds 3.3, 130,000 neighbors car, rough running condition. He replaced fuel pump & filter. Then the ignition control module. Ran good for couple weeks, started making loud banging noise and running bad, no power. Found the harmonic balancer was bad. Replaced, cleared any codes (none), ran very good he says. Went to work thurs, ran good for about 4 miles and lost power. Coasted to the side and said steam was coming from underneath the car. Looked under and the convertor was glowing brightly. Towed it here and took the convertor off. Ran it into the shop with no exhaust at all, had no power to pull itself. Finished the exhaust and cleared codes (none) flashed a "12" every time. So now we are trying to find the cause for no power. Took the ignition module off & tested it @ O'reily's, good. Changed the fuel pressure regulator thinking it may have caused the convertor to go south. No change. Will sit and idle o k, in gear and trying to move it will pre detonate fiercly and barely move. Compression test is next. Convertor back-up do this much damage, trash the engine?
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2009, 1:32 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1952 views)
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Compression is- #1 165 #3 180 #5 180 #2 180 #4 160 #6 160 Fuel pump is at 44 lbs. Putting plugs back in and will run it to see if anything new comes up. Will post.
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 17, 2009, 7:31 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1943 views)
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Pulled the I A C and cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and changed the computer. tomorrow we will change the oxygen sensor. Still idles fine, no power. Will not pull itself. Will post
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2009, 9:39 AM
Post #4 of 12
(1936 views)
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Ah CH.....You always seem to have this crazy stuff that really makes someone think and as usual you didn't disappoint....
About the only thing I can really offer here is, the times I have seen problems where the cat got cherry red it usually involved a timing issue. Being too far advanced. Some problems were mechanical, a belt or chain getting installed a tooth off or jumping other were electrical, a bad sensor, module or wire even a crossed wire once. Just for the fact that you said sometimes it runs good I would probably be looking at the electrical side.
I don't know if you have a 2 or 4 ch lab scope but it would definitely help to narrow down the problem..........
(I think I like your posts when you're tearing up your floor better......not as taxing on my brain  )
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2009, 9:46 AM
Post #5 of 12
(1932 views)
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At least I'm over the gout- for now!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2009, 10:45 AM
Post #6 of 12
(1927 views)
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Hey CH - never had "gout" but know how icky that can be thru others!
At 130K on this engine I'd be checking what I think is a timing chain for lash. Rubber belts seem to usually just break but the real chain can jump around - then work fine for a while?? I didn't make the rules!
If a chain the makers used to love planned obsolescence and use a nylon cam gear which really can't last the life of the car. Time counts with those not just miles.
Check for lash. Non distributor engines will be harder but more than 5 degrees is trouble!
Good luck,
T
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2009, 11:19 AM
Post #7 of 12
(1921 views)
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Thanks guys! My HELPFUL neighbor has re- arranged the firing order when he put the ignition control module back on after testing it. Did I mention how HELPFUL my neighbor is? Could someone shoot me a diagram of a 3.3 with location of coils/ cylinders & wires? Is not the #1 USUALLY the forward most cylinder head? Book shows # 1 is on the firewall side of the engine and the closest to the pwr stg pump. This engine has the forward most head towards the radiator side *front of car) I'll stop here.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2009, 11:34 AM
Post #8 of 12
(1918 views)
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1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
3.3 liter V-6 VIN "N" 
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2009, 11:41 AM
Post #9 of 12
(1914 views)
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Thanks Hammer, as always. Will go by this and post.
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2009, 1:04 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1907 views)
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Well, went by this diagram & it's running again, smooth as can be- until you put it in gear. Spark knock, rattle & die. Just like a major vacuum leak. Will keep looking. We put all new hoses on it (vacuum).
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 18, 2009, 1:12 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1905 views)
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Make sure that upper plenum isn't leaking anywhere.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Oct 18, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1896 views)
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Found it guys!!!!!!! One of the coil packs went south. Put on another and away he went! All is well- thank you much!
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Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
