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mystic2
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Dec 8, 2011, 9:23 AM
Post #1 of 12
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Burning Oil Theory
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I just wanted to run this theory past you guys to see if you agree or have a different theory. - 10-30 in engine from the beginning of the car's life with no smoke at start up - Added STP Oil Treatment to crankcase and smokes at start up (less than 30 seconds) - Change oil (removing the STP Oil Treatment) using 10-30 and no smoke at start up - Next oil change decide to try 10-30 high-mileage oil and smokes like crazy at start up - Quickly drain high-mileage oil (about 50 miles) and go back to 10-30 and no more smoke at start up. My theory: The higher viscosity oils are having trouble making it through a drain hole that was designed for thinner oil and therefore staying on top long enough to find their way past worn valve seals. What do you think? 98 Mazda Protege, 169,000 miles
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2011, 11:41 AM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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What higher viscosity? You have used the same viscosity all the way through. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mystic2
User
Dec 8, 2011, 12:02 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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I thought that STP Oil Treatment ''thickened'' up the oil..and that the high mileage oils were thicker.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2011, 1:01 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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No, not at all. It puts a sticky, slippery film on everything to increase lubrication and seal compression leaks. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mystic2
User
Dec 8, 2011, 1:40 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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Ok, the HM oil & STP Treatment must be sticking to the cylinder bore and/or rings and getting burned up. Where as the standard oil doesn't stick and gets wiped out of the chamber in time to avoid being burned up. Make sense?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 8, 2011, 1:58 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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No, I just think one produces more smoke when it's burned than the other. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mystic2
User
Dec 9, 2011, 10:30 AM
Post #7 of 12
(2141 views)
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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Do you think it's likely that the oil is getting into the combustion chamber through the valve seals?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 9, 2011, 10:47 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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It's possible. It depends when you are seeing the smoke. If it's while idling or just after, the valve guides afe highly suspect. If higher RPM, rings are suspect. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mystic2
User
Dec 9, 2011, 11:41 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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It does smoke during idling but only for about 15 seconds after the car is started. (First start of the day and when the outside temp dips below 60F) If it is the valve guides, would replacing the valve seals do any good to reduce the amount of oil getting into the chamber/s?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 9, 2011, 12:37 PM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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It would be a temporary fix. The seal usually go bad due to wear in the guides and valve movement which will eventually get the new seals also. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mystic2
User
Dec 9, 2011, 12:45 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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Bummer..and I bet the head has to come off to replace the valves and guides, right? ..Or is there a way to do it with the head on?
(This post was edited by mystic2 on Dec 9, 2011, 12:50 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 9, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: Burning Oil Theory
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Of c`ourse not. It's a valve job. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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