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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 8:29 AM
Post #1 of 18
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Hey guys, I have a 2012 GMC Acadia that won't start. It was exhibiting dead battery behavior where turning the key would do nothing or click a few times. I just replaced the battery so thought the alternator was bad. I tested the voltage and it was putting out 14.5ish like it should. I jumped the car and it ran. Then it would just shut off. Jumping worked a few times now the engine just turns but never catches. When it does finally catch, stepping on the gas does that do anything to rev the engine. Here is a video of it...
https://youtu.be/QQ0DxuEPBME
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 24, 2017, 2:14 PM
Post #2 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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That's definitely not a dead battery.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 3:40 PM
Post #3 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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Thanks so much for the thorough reply, I will get that test equipment and see what I can find. Quick question, why would it just click or not turn at all without jumper cables connected now?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 24, 2017, 3:59 PM
Post #4 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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That was a battery or battery connection issue but that is not the issue in the video, 2 different problems.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:00 PM
Post #5 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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That's what I figured. I think I have multiple issues. This car has been nothing but trouble.
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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:30 PM
Post #6 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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This look like an alternator?
https://youtu.be/-wKgcXQ2Pns
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Hammer Time
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:34 PM
Post #7 of 18
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Nothing "looks like" an alternator. If you confirm the system is not charging, THEN you can take a closer look at an alternator. All that vieo shows is that you had insufficient power supply for whatever reason. It could be as simple as a bad connection or something was left on.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:49 PM
Post #8 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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Yea I originally thought it was a bad connection Because the voltage jumped around when we wiggled the wires (specifically the battery current sensor), which I tried replacing but yielded the same results.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:51 PM
Post #9 of 18
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You need to test, not guess.
Use a voltmeter and find out where you are losing it.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 24, 2017, 4:53 PM
Post #10 of 18
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Yea I'm not quite sure where exactly to test. I tested at the connections under the hood and the battery itself, now it won't start long enough for me to test anywhere else. I did get these code from my device but it could just be a symptom of the voltage issue...
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Hammer Time
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Nov 24, 2017, 5:13 PM
Post #11 of 18
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That's not a good sign. That's a strong indication of a bad computer.
Here is a video for testing the battery and starter circuit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfLyh43iihM
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 27, 2017, 2:46 PM
Post #12 of 18
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Re: Car won't start
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So that video was great thanks, still a bit over my head haha.
So I took the battery back and got a warranty replacement. The car turned but would not catch. I leveled it on the ground since it was parked on an incline, I also swapped out a few fuses (even though they looked good, related to the PCM and ECM etc.), after a few near catches it finally caught. Now it starts consistently with the new battery and I monitored for any voltage dropped and it has maintained so far.
the thing now is there is a light engine knock and white exhaust coming from the pipe even after fully warming up.
I am at 100k miles so def due for some spark plugs, I'd have to get my hands on a tester kick for the head gasket, but at least I can get it to a shop now. I appreciate your help.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 27, 2017, 2:53 PM
Post #13 of 18
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If you have white exhaust, then that explains a lot. It's looking like a blown head gasket that is causing coolant to get into the cylinders. I'm suspecting that you are leaving some history info out of this story as to a possible previous overheating.
The hard starting sounds like plugs fouled with coolant.
At this point you should remove the spark plugs and pressurize the cooling system for a good long time to see if any coolant gets into any the cylinders.
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RadianWear
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Nov 27, 2017, 2:55 PM
Post #14 of 18
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I had the water pump replaced about 7-8 months ago because the car was overheating. The car is at 100k miles, don't head gaskets normally last anywhere from 110-120?
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Hammer Time
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Nov 27, 2017, 2:59 PM
Post #15 of 18
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I don't know where you heard that. Blown head gaskets are the result of aluminum components warping from heat. All you have to do to cause a blown head gasket is to really overheat it just one time. It doesn't matter if the engine has 100K miles or 10 miles.
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RadianWear
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Nov 27, 2017, 3:02 PM
Post #16 of 18
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It was some article about detecting blow head gaskets. So mostly like it was probably damaged when it was overheating from the water pump? Would the chemical leak tester show anything if it was only leaking into the cylinders?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 27, 2017, 3:09 PM
Post #17 of 18
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ONLY leaking into the cylinders?
Chemical testers are almost always inconclusive when testing. They require such a large sample of gas that the failure is completely obvious before the tester shows a positive result.
The most reliable way to test is using an exhaust gas analyzer at the radiator to sense for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. That test is far more sensitive that chemical testing.
You can start by doing what I already advised you to do. If you find any coolant in any of the cylinders, no further testing necessary.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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RadianWear
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Nov 27, 2017, 3:11 PM
Post #18 of 18
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ok, will let you know what I find, I need to get some equipment to run the tests. Appreciate your help!
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