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Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 3, 2020, 10:25 PM
Post #1 of 12
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Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Hi guys, I just came into a 2008 Volvo V50 2.4i 5cyl non-turbo motor. Aluminum block and head. The PO did a bunch of maintenance on the car before a 2000 mile road trip, including changing out some coolant hoses. He forgot one of the clamps and though the hose stayed on it’s fitting, it gradually bled out coolant until he overheated the engine. It warned him of the overheat, and though the gauge was not yet in the red, he pulled over. The car was running when he shut it off, but would not restart afterwards. Cylinder number three has coolant in it. I assume the head gasket is bad, but don’t have much experience with overheating engines, and I am a little surprised that it won’t even try to fire. I intend to check compression next week. There is no obvious evidence of coolant in the oil. My questions: 1. Would it be common to proactively shut down an engine and then have it not restart? 2. Any chance that a head gasket alone would fix this problem and not require head machining etc? Thanks
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 4, 2020, 12:16 AM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Not sure but this may use a different way to do a head gasket than what you might think? Any metals but most that are alloys, aluminum just really a name of one do NOT like heat or disasters with "overheating" a mistake over a hose clamp you found, PO as you put it knew/found this. I would do compression testing, scope maybe to see if block or head is cracked basically renders this IMO done with and go looking for good used parts if you intend to fix it back up. Coolant in cylinder doesn't have to mean a gasket alone or sealing it may be destroyed? BTW when integrity of cooling system has failed, any reason, the coolant can both leak and boil such that vapor is slow or very late to show overheating such that warnings are too late and this was beyond survivable overheating items on or outside engine may be destroyed so get checking and decide what to do, T
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 4, 2020, 1:55 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Thanks for the quick reply guys. A little background: The car popped up on craigslist “free” and I snapped it up for a couple reasons, firstly because I’ve I always thought these little wagons are cool, and two because this gives me an opportunity to gain some experience. I have nearly none doing internal engine work. I did have to invest a little money in the car seeing as he wanted to keep some of the components he had just invested in it namely brand new tires and a battery. I think I can easily get my $400 back out of it simply by selling the tires/wheels. He also put brand new plugs and wires, fresh oil and some new cooling system hoses before starting the cross country road trip that ultimately claimed the car. So in the interest in learning, what is the most likely damage I should be looking for when I pull the head? Will cracks be obvious or will they require more invasive tests? Will it take a machine shop to tell me whether the head is warped, or will I be able to see it against a straight edge? Can the Block be warped or is that less likely? Is the reason the car wouldn’t restart because of compression loss? I did see on YouTube that I will need those special cam lock tools. I’m not afraid to spend a little money on the car if there is a good chance that it will run again, but I don’t want to throw a lot of money at it if it’s a lost cause. If the engine is toast I may consider buying a eBay engine, but I’d rather try fixing this one for the experience. I’m hoping that I can get away with buying a head gasket/seal kit, a new timing belt and water pump kit and maybe pay for some mild machine work. Too optimistic?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 4, 2020, 2:04 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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There is only one path to take here. Remove the head and send it immediately to the machine shop. They will pressure test it for cracks and if none, they will resurface the head. You also need to buy all new head bolts as they are one time use. If the car has a lot of miles, you should do a valve job too. That will bring into question whether the bottom end of the engine will be strong enough when the top half is reconditioned. You can probably expect to spent at least $600 in parts and machine shop without doing a valve job, even if you do the labor yourself. There's still a good chance the head is cracked and will have to be replaced. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Oct 4, 2020, 2:05 PM)
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 5, 2020, 10:20 AM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Thanks for sharing your experience HT. That sounds reasonable. My local machine shop wants about $120 to clean, pressure test and resurface the head. A head gasket/seal kit, timing belt/water pump and pulley kit plus new head bolts runs to almost $300, but I will hold off on the parts until I get word back from the machine shop. I threw my back out trying to push the car uphill off the trailer, but hope to pull the head in the next couple of days. You mentioned a potential valve job for high mileage engines, would 150,000 fit that bill? I will know more once I get eyes on the valves/seats.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2020, 10:25 AM
Post #7 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Add to that engine oil, filter and coolant. A new thermostat would be recommended along with any hoses still original. If it was driven for any period of time with the blown head gasket, you could end up needing a Catalytic Converter also. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Oct 5, 2020, 10:26 AM)
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 5, 2020, 10:58 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Yeah, I did have a thermostat in the parts shopping cart, I forgot to mention that. I had not considered that the catalytic converter might have been ruined though…
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 21, 2020, 8:18 PM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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FYI, your guess was correct. I pulled the head and discovered major damage to the cylinders and pistons. I was looking forward to getting it running, but barring a good deal on a salvage engine, she won't be on the road again. By the way... The dark colored staining on one side of the valve cover and on the cams, what causes that and why only on the one side? http://autoforums.carjunky.com/photos/pic/567VyH23/1688.jpg http://autoforums.carjunky.com/photos/pic/567VyH23/1689.jpg http://autoforums.carjunky.com/photos/pic/567VyH23/1690.jpg http://autoforums.carjunky.com/photos/pic/567VyH23/1691.jpg
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 22, 2020, 2:11 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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It's always "opinion" this engine is over - not worth $$ thrown at that one. Damage from lousy oil care was LOOOONG before this incident IMO as said. Q: What's with rust stains down cylinder walls? Did someone just leave this outdoors that doesn't happen despite not deadly with oils or real coolant that's from water and exposure. Suggests trouble with how it's handled now as even parts? Your biz not mine folks either love or hate these cars in a career TWO at my hands right now had to be a miracle now over 500,000 miles between them both run WELL! Onward: You wanted or was off on a 2,000 mile trip/run and expected no surprises like you had it wasn't worthy in hindsight now for that - yet near impossible to rule out all problems possible if it was just out of factory new. If this car is otherwise exceptional, body, interior, all suspension, brakes and item work properly plus you need time to find a WRECK still fresh from another reason with an exact match motor I'd suggest go for it. Otherwise you have a lot of parts for another less abused engine wise than this one looks horrid for a 12 year old IMO again. Your call, your $$ and tolerance for this. One more: Suggest you find the right Volvo NUT for a tech fully trained and experience with these or you'll never win keeping these - IMO again, Tom
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Hulabaloo
Novice
Oct 22, 2020, 7:47 AM
Post #12 of 12
(719 views)
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Re: Engine overheat, running fine when shutdown, won’t re-start.
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Thanks guys.
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