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gthomas
User
Jul 14, 2009, 8:43 AM
Post #1 of 22
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I have a 96 Saturn SL2 and the "service engine soon" light is on. It was diagnosed as the secondary O2 sensor sticks sometimes. Is there anything I can add to the gas tank that will fix this? I don't have the money to get it fixed.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 14, 2009, 8:57 AM
Post #2 of 22
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O/2 sensors don't "stick"
What was the exact code number?
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 14, 2009, 9:21 AM
Post #3 of 22
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If your rear O2 is staying centered, then it will need to be replaced. There isn't any quick fix for that. The good news is on that old of a vehicle, it doesn't use a rear fuel trim stategy and the rear O2 is just a cat monitor, so you will just have to put up with the SES light & not worry about a drivability problem.........
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gthomas
User
Jul 14, 2009, 9:43 AM
Post #4 of 22
(3522 views)
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I don't know, I was told the code meant it was the secondary O2 sensor by a guy at Auto Zone. Another guy said that it worked intermitently
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gthomas
User
Jul 14, 2009, 9:47 AM
Post #5 of 22
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I don't know. The guy at auto zone said his computer told him it was the O2 sensor. Another guy siad that he thought it would work, then stop, than start again
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 14, 2009, 9:51 AM
Post #6 of 22
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No offense to the parts guys but they aren't training to diagnos. They are just pulling codes and codes just tell what system is being affected & not the problem. Granted OBD II has a lot more "specific" codes now but some are still just common system faults...... There are some pretty specific 02 codes that usually indicate a faulty 02 but there are also lean bank codes that come up that I've seen people blame on O2s where that is almost never the problem.....
They didn't give you a print out or wite it down for you?
(This post was edited by Sidom on Jul 14, 2009, 9:52 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 14, 2009, 10:01 AM
Post #7 of 22
(3510 views)
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I'll repeat the same thing. the guys at AutoZone are nothing but sales clerks that think they are experts and know nothing. The whole reason they do this for free is to sell parts so in order to do that, they have to make you think they know what they are talking about but in reality, my cat knows more than them.
Get the code number and we can tell you what it means.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 14, 2009, 10:04 AM
Post #8 of 22
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No they didn't and the other thing is my exhaust is rotted out and I won't just replace the sensor with this exhaust, I need to repalce the exhaust from the manifold, back once I get back to work. Thank you for the information. May I ask you another thing to? Does this faulty O2 sensor cause the car to idle very smoothly but when I drive it, it periodically has a very hard miss and thump coming from the rear end (in a front wheel drive vehicle)?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 14, 2009, 10:33 AM
Post #9 of 22
(3502 views)
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We can't really tell you how it will effect the engine until we know what the code is. There are about 20 different codes referring to the O/2 sensor all meaning different things.
If you have an exhaust leak ahead of the sensor, that can be your whole problem with the sensor code.
If you have a noise coming from the rear of a front wheel drive car, it's certainly not the engine or transmission doing it.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 12:56 AM
Post #10 of 22
(3486 views)
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I'll take it in to get a code today. Just so you know, when I had the problem originally, last year, I added a bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment to the gas tank and in a few days, the problem (bogging, missing and hesitating) went away. I did that after I had the code cleared and the light went off. If this helps
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 2:54 AM
Post #11 of 22
(3481 views)
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There were 6 codes that came up including low voltage and high voltage. He wants to charge $50 to do an electrical diagnosis
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 15, 2009, 3:14 AM
Post #12 of 22
(3478 views)
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I just want the code numbers, not a diagnosis. They do that for free.
If you have been unplugging anything, you may have set some of those codes yourself. You may have to record and clear them and then see which ones set again.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 3:23 AM
Post #13 of 22
(3472 views)
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Okay, I'll run up there again and get the codes only and No, I have not unplugged anything
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 15, 2009, 3:26 AM
Post #14 of 22
(3469 views)
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Tell them to clear them after you write them all down. They will all start with a "P".
We may have to go read them again later.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 3:58 AM
Post #15 of 22
(3462 views)
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Hammer Time, here are the codes I just got :
P0141
P0563
P0562
P1555
P0565
P0560
P0605
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 3:59 AM
Post #16 of 22
(3462 views)
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Sidom, I just got the codes and they are:
P0141
P0563
P0562
P1555
P0565
P0560
P0605
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 15, 2009, 4:12 AM
Post #17 of 22
(3459 views)
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OK, only one of those codes has anything at all to do with an O/2 sensor. The downstream O/2 has a heater problem. You will have to test for power and ground arriving before replacing it.
PO555 doesn't exist for that vehicle
PO560,PO562,PO563 all have to do with system voltage fluctuating. You need to monitor the charging voltage to see if it is jumping around for some reason
PO565- Cruise control indicator problem
PO605 EPROM error. That is an internal computer problem. It could have something to do with the voltage fluctuations
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 4:21 AM
Post #18 of 22
(3453 views)
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I cut and pasted your comments with a comment of my own( in RED) beside it:
OK, only one of those codes has anything at all to do with an O/2 sensor. The downstream O/2 has a heater problem. You will have to test for power and ground arriving before replacing it.
PO555 doesn't exist for that vehicle - I meant to say P1555
PO560,PO562,PO563 all have to do with system voltage fluctuating. You need to monitor the charging voltage to see if it is jumping around for some reason- How do I do this? Will the voltage regulator need to be replaced?
PO565- Cruise control indicator problem -I know, it doesn't work- How do I fix this?
PO605 EPROM error. That is an internal computer problem. It could have something to do with the voltage fluctuations -How is this fixed?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 15, 2009, 5:50 AM
Post #19 of 22
(3449 views)
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You have extensive multiple problems here that will require considerable time to diagnose them individually.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 5:57 AM
Post #20 of 22
(3443 views)
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I thought so. I guess I will spend the $50 and have the mechanic down the street diagnose it and see whether it is worth putting the money into. Again, I thank you so much for your Professional opinion and the time you have invested in this (and me). Are you in Michigan and would you be interested in what the final verdict is?
G. Thomas Martin
If so, I can be reached directly at gtmartin2002@yahoo.com
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 15, 2009, 7:17 AM
Post #21 of 22
(3441 views)
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We always like it when people post back the solution here on the forum so all can see it.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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gthomas
User
Jul 15, 2009, 7:29 AM
Post #22 of 22
(3435 views)
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Yes, I will post back once all is said and done. Is there any chance in Hell that this be be a relatively inexpensive, one size fits all (voltage regulator?) fix?
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