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Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 11, 2012, 2:44 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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I'm not sure but i think it has a slower drying time.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Nov 11, 2012, 3:14 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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I found my black.
Last question...... hopefully. This is the first timing cover I've done so just want to make sure I cover all bases. I don't like doing things twice just because I didn't ask someone who knows. Do I need to use any kind of sealant on the bolts or will the gaskets take care of them?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 11, 2012, 3:19 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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It probably would hurt to put some on the 4 bolts around the water port but the others won't matter. Sometimes those threads go through to the water jacket.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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nickwarner
Veteran
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Nov 11, 2012, 5:40 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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Those bolts will be the real long ones, and I'm with HT about putting some silicone on them. He also raises a good point about using spray-tack to hold the gasket to the cover and silicone on the block side. If you do have pitting on the cover you add it to the float test pile for when we go fishing, and if not the gasket will stay on the cover should you have need to ever pull it again.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Dec 2, 2012, 7:31 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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I ended up finding the leak I first posted about. When I first started pulling the tranny I could've sworn it was oil. Since I flushed the power steering system I can now tell that it's power steering fluid. I was able to climb underneath and see that it's coming from the hard line where it connects to the pump. So, it's either the fitting on the line or on the pump. I shouldn't have to remove anything to replace that line so might try that first. If I replace the other line I'll probably have to pull the alternator and pump. I wasn't able to install the power steering pump without removing the bracket where you lift the engine. I tried for quite awhile but couldn't drop it in place. If we're going to keep the van I should probably just replace the pump and both lines while I'm at it. The other line just has a 6" rubber hose and then the hard line so I might be able to just replace the hose section. Should I first try the one line or go ahead and replace both lines and the pump? The pump works fine the fitting just might be leaking.
One more question. I noticed you can get a power steering pump seal kit. Looks like it comes with O-rings. What are the chances I could just replace the O-rings? Does the hard line have an o-ring or is it flared? I think if I could just take care of the leak where the line goes into the fitting it would be fine.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Dec 2, 2012, 7:37 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 2, 2012, 9:01 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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Hmmm? Is PS leaking at connections, lines or not so sure yet? Is this running yet to clean and really see the leak? PS lines: Pressure and return. Pressure is serious pressure + return rather passive quality hose and clamps.
Seal kit? If you mean tank to pump fine and if leaking do that. Pumps themselves aren't so serviceable but that hasn't stopped you yet. So far none so costly all done to make it worth it to me anyway.
Dealing with one now (Ford product) that of course now just refuses to show itself at all, all OE 24+ years old and looks like about 2 months old new junk in the trunk waiting probably worse than the old OE stuff.
Just watch out for plain hose with clamps what kind of clamps. Near impossible to find are the full circle clamps. The spring worm (call those what you will) do not apply even pressure unless one whole loop isn't cut for the screw. I think I have the last two of those. Just keep an eye on what you end up using if you go there. Pressure whole lines aren't that expensive IMO so far but this may have a fitting in the line for sensing pressure for a sensor to seal too. Should come with what you need for seals.
PS stuff is important as no fluid and pump failure can mess up a ton of junk and render you a pedestrian if it can't hold a belt on the system,
T
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Dec 4, 2012, 9:59 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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Thanks Tom. I'm pretty sure the leak was just from the o-ring on the fitting that connects to the pump. It was junk. I was able to completely disassemble the pump and replace all seals and O-rings. The kit came with the shaft seal, fitting o-ring, rear cover o-ring, and reservoir o-ring. I think that's pretty much all the O-rings and the only seal. I didn't see any others and I had it completely torn down. Vanes and all. Since I ordered new lines I went ahead and replaced them too. No since tearing back into it for $80. Those lines weren't much fun. It would've been much easier with the tranny out. If I would've had it on a lift they would've been a piece of cake. It was just hard getting my arm up to screw the fitting into the rack.
It's all pretty much operational. Well, I hope so. I started it up the other day to top off fluids and all but haven't put it into gear yet. I still have to let it warm up, shift through all the gears, and top of the tranny. I've been putting off throwing it into gear until I have too. I'm too darn nervous! Tomorrow is the day though.
Oh but you thought you had the last two worm clamps. Remember that shadow you saw outside your window the other night out of the corner of your eye? You weren't seeing things. 
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Dec 5, 2012, 4:20 AM
Post #33 of 33
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Re: Oil Leak 2002 Chevy Venture 3.4 FWD
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Quote ">>Oh but you thought you had the last two worm clamps. Remember that shadow you saw outside your window the other night out of the corner of your eye? You weren't seeing things.<<"
LMAO - You wouldn't recognize them at a glance. I'll beat it up a bit with hose clamps.......
Typical............
Seems that's all even high end parts stores will give you either stainless or not. Stainless should be marked "SS" on housing for the clamp. That type shown allows the cuts for the screw to contact the hose and NOT very good but cool because you can open those and use two end to end for a larger clamp BUT they do NOT apply even pressure. Those if only choice use two in opposite directions and still flare a metal line if you are making a piece.
Two side by side showing a difference.............
One on left is the ones I can't find anywhere. See that no cut gear touches hose such that it is "full circle" pressure. Have gone to every known hardware and automotive place known and can't find the ones on the left in that pic. Easy to use and stays tight. There's some rule if something is designed to work you are not allowed to sell it!
Others that are good and used commonly............
That is OE for many applications. Locally I can only find those at a Benzo, Rolls and Bentley dealer! Mostly for PS and fuel line use OE. Can be snugged up and do apply full circle pressure. If 'SS' (magnet wont pick them up) I'll use those in place of even some OE junk meant for one time use.
One time use type.............
At least it is as close to full circle for junk out there. Advantage is fast, dirt cheap, set pinch tool so tightness factor is pre-set. No brains involved for mass production which is now key.
Self adjusting now in common use for cooling system mostly, an assortment shown...........
This idea at least as a hose shrinks the clamp continues to hold same contact pressure. One in center right works best IMO but can require special tool that costs more than anyone would want to spend to use them quickly in odd locations.
Tool look like this...........
Generic shown.
This crap matters and can wreck your whole job later long after it worked the cheap junk clamps can leak, slip, rust out, strip out, cause marital problems (LOL) and will by Murphy's Law be in the hardest place to do anything about it requiring 10 hours time taking other things out of the way to fix what could have been right the first time - will fail at the worst possible time causing the most damage!
The best new PS hose I have uses the one time crimp clamp and I'm not pleased. That exact case it is located where it can be swapped out fast and easy for a better one.
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This is or can be nasty critical. My take is to make vehicles fast and furious at any location by unskilled labor with the least expensive materials you can get away with rules the market.
Laugh - I feel better now - Tom
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