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Anonymous Poster
drawf@comcast.net
Feb 9, 2008, 5:29 PM
Post #1 of 5
(2531 views)
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1971 chevy parked 3 yrs.
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I recently purchased a 1971 chevy c/10 p/u from a person who had passed on about 3 yrs. ago and his wife knows practically nothing about the truck, she was just ready to get rid of it. It apparently had a tune up just before the gentleman passed and was thought to be in top running shape. I was not able to start the vehicle upon first inspection, purchased it anyway because it is a gem even not running, and am still unable to start the vehicle. It is getting spark, but the confusion comes with the fuel situation. I have never owned a vehicle with additional gas tanks as this one has two additional tanks, one just in front of each rear tire, and the main behind the seat. There is a valve inside the cab that is part of the additional tank situation, I assume to switch from one tank to the next. I have tried this valve in every postion possible and still was unable to start the vehicle. So I have isolated the extra tanks, purchased and installed a new fuel pump, the vehicle turns over but refuses to start. I know there are some thing to consider when a vehicle sits for some time but I am at a bit of a stand still at the moment. any suggestions?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 9, 2008, 6:02 PM
Post #2 of 5
(2526 views)
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Re: 1971 chevy parked 3 yrs.
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First off is don't necessarily trust that the plugs are sparking - flooded could make them fail but not just yet.
Do you have evidence of fuel in the carb? Can you see it squirt when you give it a pumps after a few cranks to fill it up?
Fuel filter on carb - right? They can't handle much debris or goo from old gas. Gas could be a problem but let's wait a bit for that.
If a plug looks dry enough (not always a good way to know but fair) then try some starting fluid right down the carb and it should at least react, sput - something.
If you are pretty sure of both spark and fuel and know this was a running truck than there's something else to check if it doesn't react with starter fluid or known good plugs. Try taking a manifold vacuum reading just with it cranking. Reason is that if that is VERY little (should read perhaps 10+Hg) then the lifters may have collapsed and the valves aren't opening or enough. If that does become suspect and you get any struggles to start with starting fluid a few times they might just build up again. Extended cranking could but that's a starter motor killer of course. There should be a way to prime up oil pressure thru the distributor on this.
Neat vintage of the Chev trucks. Shouldn't be that bad to get this going.
What engine and trans is in this?
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Guest
Anonymous Poster
drawf@comcast.net
Feb 10, 2008, 2:14 PM
Post #3 of 5
(2518 views)
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Re: 1971 chevy parked 3 yrs.
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I have tried starting fluid directly in carb and it teased me a little but no success just wearing down a new battery. plugs are sparking. do not see any fuel in carb when pumping gas even tried to flood it and nothing, i installed a new fuel pump and starter.did notice yesterday that one of the lines from the "evaporative emissions control system" (fancy word for canister that holds the fuel vapors) was unattached and i do not see where it connects. checked my haynes manual and it does not go into enough detail. i did pull out the fuel filter and inspected it but did not replace. am stil trying to figure out this multi-fuel tank system, very frustrating. never done the manifold vacuum reading before could you expand on that? and priming oil pressure? by the way winchester mass. native here, transplanted to colorado
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 10, 2008, 4:30 PM
Post #4 of 5
(2513 views)
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Re: 1971 chevy parked 3 yrs.
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1. Vapor canister. Doesn't do much in those. If the carb can vent the air on top of fuel in the bowl if 1971 connectec that to the thing you can pretty much forget it. Gas tank(s) might vent thru it too - who knows in this one. As long as air can replace fuel used in an area it doesn't mean much. Blow thu the line and forget it if not plugged solid. Taking the gas caps off for a second rules that out for the check anyway. Just replace the fuel filter and buy a few. Long or short, full flow or check flap to attempt to not let fuel go backwards but it does anyway when shut down. For this I might by-pass original all metal line for a creation of neoprene fuel line with careful thought so that you could put an in-line see thru one before it for quick and easy replacement and they hold lots more debris. Be real careful with the carb with the 1" hex and threaded housing to carb AND the line - no teflon tape ever in either area!
2. Vacuum testing: It's a book in itself and didn't my teachers concentrated on that now so long ago as a very easy and accurate diagnostic tool and I still do it and it works even for the newest engines. You can even use it for timing an engine when you can't find or use timing marks or for custom adjustments - lost art.
For this it was only an easy way to see if the engine had compression which would be lacking if the intake valve couldn't open. A compression check of just one or two would tell as easily. Cold I'd like to see at least 120 or so which is enough to make it start up. Running well is yet to come and needs to be running at all for a while for further testing if needed at all.
You replaced the fuel pump and if that was just to move the thing there would be air in lines that could take forever to purge out in a vehicle that hadn't just run. You could usually just prime them up and they would self correct but you started with one that hadn't been run recently.
The fuel lines and three tanks is up to you to figure out. Just use one for now that could pump fuel thru so you can see it with a line disconnected if need be run to a container. I've run these and the era's engines with a tube and funnel or bottle of fuel direct to carb like an IV when fuel pumps failed just to get a vehicle to the shop. Gravity feed pressure only works but poorly.
Gotta fire this thing up somehow and go from there with what else might need help.
Side note: I spent a year in Denver (DU) and bought two nice older cars there as they lacked the Mass rust that I'm sure you are familiar with. Oh! Winchester no less - cool! Lived in Sudbury most of my life then Marlborough when I was paying the bills . After 23 years here now it got wicked expensive too!
T
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Fatcat1981
Novice
Feb 13, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #5 of 5
(2502 views)
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Re: 1971 chevy parked 3 yrs.
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You can purchase bad parts from parts stores at any given moment. Does your fuel pump have plenty of pressure if you were to push on the rod, if not you may have a busted diaphram. I purchased a bad fuel pump from Summit racing.You may have collapsed fuel lines if there are rubber lines in between the steel lines.
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