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2000 Galant keeps cutting off
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Guest
Anonymous Poster
grenee17@aol.com
Jul 16, 2009, 12:15 PM
Post #1 of 3
(4644 views)
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2000 Galant keeps cutting off
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2000, mitsubishi, galant, 2.4L engine, 118,541
Waiting at intersection last week and car died, would not restart. Towed to shop and there was no code on the diagnostic test. Visual inspection led to engine gasket valve replacement. Left shop car died at intersection an hour later. Next guess was leaking, weak battery, replaced that and next morning, car died again. Finally the problem was identified as the icv ($600). Car died at intersection less than 30 minutes later. Was told I would get a refund on part or at least the difference of a new part which was the cam sensor. Now I'm told, when they put back in my original icv with the new cam sensor, the car died, so naturally they had to replace it with the new one and now the car runs fine. I said they would find a way to link the issue together so they wouldn't have to refund me and I predicted correctly. What's the connection with each part and what's your take on this issue?
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Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 16, 2009, 1:44 PM
Post #2 of 3
(4637 views)
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Re: 2000 Galant keeps cutting off
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ICV? Idle control valve? IAC?
Engine gasket valve replacement? Valve cover gasket? What was the reasoning?
Camshaft sensor won't cause the engine to die. Crankshaft sensor will.
Cam and Crank sensors are about $90 each, plus labor. (cam sensor .5hrs, crank sensor 3.2hrs.)
Idle speed control servo is about $400. plud labor. (.9 hrs)
You'll have to make your own conclusion on this one.
The IAC controls idle speed. They get dirty, gummy, sticky. Can cause a dying problem. 90% of the time, they can be cleaned.
Hope this gives you some ammunition.
Loren
SW Washington
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 17, 2009, 4:05 PM
Post #3 of 3
(4634 views)
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Re: 2000 Galant keeps cutting off
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I'll just add my 2 cents here...
When diagnosing a car it is critical to have a good battery & connections. Without that, any failure of a test is suspect. Any tech that would start diag'ing a car with a known weak or bad battery is nuts & could actually wind up costing the cust more $$$$ with false results.... So even if it's not the root cause of the drivabililty problem it needs to be squared away before the tech can proceed with the testing.....
As far as the other parts, with out seeing patterns, codes, a data stream, voltage drops of the involved circuits I can only guess.....But I can offer this going off of the info you provided.....
New IAC, old cam sensor....car dies New cam sensor, old IAC....car dies New cam sensor, new IAC....car runs fine...
Maybe their method could use a little refining but it sound like they eventually got there....... I think they need to work on their communication to the customer & what exactly is going on with their vehicle during the process. Basically if you want a refund on one of the parts.. then in all fairness, what ever part they give you your money back on means they should put your old part back on (they shouldn't have to pay for parts on your car) but then the car will start to die again.
As far as the valve cover gasket......leaking into the tubes is a common problem with those & can cause a drivabililty problem but not exactly like the one you describe but did need to be addressed..........
I hope this helps a little but automotive diagnostics is not an exact science as some are lead to believe & sometime during the process you come across areas that are out of specs that really have to be taken care of so you can continue on to try to get as acurate results as possible...... If you are not allowed to fix those areas then you are reduced to guessing & going off gut instinct
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