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2001 Chevy Blazer Stalled and Won't Restart
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 21, 2013, 9:59 PM
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2001 Chevy Blazer Stalled and Won't Restart
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New here to the CarJunky site. SEE THE FINAL COMMENT AT THE LAST POST BELOW, This truck is now back on the road again!!!!!!!! My daugther car is a Chevy and I'm her mechanic, and am at I'm at my whits end. Rates a Logistic Specialist not Construction Mech. Here's a brief history, daughter left at night about 9 days back. She went 8 miles out and the Blazer just shutdown on the freeway. She managed to steer it no pwr anything down the off ramp and throw on the emergency blinks and call up dad. I came their to her blazer, in out 6 minutes, and pushed the blazer with my car into the nearby Lowe parking lot. Couldn't get it going that night, or the next day (Sun.), so we had it towed to driveway at home. I've been working at it ever since. 'Charged Battery - hold a great charge, cleaned up gunk like pitch with dirt, so I didn't become as black as the engine start out. Changed out chankshaft pos. sensor - no luck. It has new sparkplug and 7mm Mag wires. Spark test to coil good through coil wire good too, no spark at plugs, per my neighbor a great mech. on boats. Had the ICM tested at AutoZone, twice and they said it was good. Tried the cap and rotor before this new set, it was a known good set - no luck. Changed out the pickup coil in distrib - no luck with the start up. That's the extent of my labors. Except starting fluid in the throttle housing and cranking but no start yet. My neighbor thought it was trying to catch or start, and said it was to far out from catching. I could use any suggestions for furthering the diagnosis and cause. Daughters been great and patient and my lower back, and knuckles are holding up so far. H E L P the Seabee in the Navy. Thanks in advance all.
(This post was edited by seabeenear20years on Mar 26, 2013, 11:07 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 22, 2013, 3:28 AM
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Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer Stalled and Won't Restart
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The first thing I would be testing is the fuel pressure. This engine requires a minimum of 55PSI to run. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 6:01 AM
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Thank you for the guidance. My daughter said, "Dad, I feel the fuel pump needs replaced and maybe the fuel filter too". She named the truck 'Amber', and said, "It seems like, I have to sometimes really have to lay hard on the gas to get 'Amber' to go sometimes". Daughters pretty perceptive about how Amber is handling. I'll see if the auto store nearby has a loanable fuel pressure gauge, and if not I buy one for the diagnostic tool bin in my man cave, (garage). I really appreciate all you and the forum do for us neophytes. I'll keep you posted, on what I find out.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 6:10 AM
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It was late when I posted this, so basically we tested the spark seemed full and blue from the coil wire to a grounded screwdriver, per my boat mechanic friend. I was firing the key only. I did the key for a second test, he recommended to test the spark to a grounded screwdriver, he stated, "that time there wasn't the presence of spark at all". These were the only tests ran other than trying to fire it up on starting fluid, which failed to start it up.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 7:07 AM
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I did some reading out on the forum related to a 94 Blazer with lack of acceleration, just wished ours had a start right at the moment. Dark outside still, so it will have to wait till late afternoon today for attention. So back to that reading I did, the non gasoline stuff in the tank (contaminants), could have taken out 'Amber's' (trucks name), fuel pump, which could be big part of our problem. Some previous friend, now quite differently view by us, pour or placed powder sugar down the filler neck of my daughter truck roughly a year and two months ago. I caught it before she zipped out for a drive, and shop vaccuum up the mess using a tapered nose with duck tape attached 1/2" clearl hose, to reach the interior of tank filler tube. It took me roughly 50 minutes to complete this fun stuff, and even dropped the long horizonal rubber hose that leads to the tank itself, and suck out all remaining residue. I felt confident I had everything and the truck continued on without missing a beat from the time period mention earlier. Daughter says, "mileage is bad dad", and thinks it's leaking gas by the money she spends on the trucks fuel. I said it's a combined problem 4x4 Chevy truck 2 wheel drive engaged, but not in there with her driving and those truly blessed California prices. The only thing still golden, about this state is the gold standard involving our taxation on gasoline and diesel, right? There that bugged me quite some time, I feel a bit better now. So that said, I run the testing with the gauge and look for leakage from the rails and fuel injectors today. I'll keep you post. Sun is peeking through now from the East. Might catch a few more zzzz before work.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 7:13 AM
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Owner of truck 2001 Chevy Blazer LS (daughter says), "There's 129,200 miles on Amber, and she's a Automatic 4 x 4, that's a lot of fun to drive". Also said, thank you so much for advising dad in what to look at next.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 22, 2013, 7:16 AM
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We need to revisit that spark issue. I would suggest using a cheap spark tester at the plug end and test it again. If you are actually correct about the spark at the coil and not the plugs, that would point to a distributor issue. You also don't want to move that distributor if at all possible because it will require a very expensive scan tool to get it set right again. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 22, 2013, 8:29 AM)
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 7:34 AM
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I had an awful gut feeling the distributor was playing a bad role in this debactol. I don't know much about modern distributors like this one and am much more comfortable with a gap tool and screwdriver. I purchased and added in a pick up coil yesterday. It was only 28 dollars with my miltary discount. I'll quit throwing money after swine, and being the real labors of diagnotic testing now. Thank you for the direction and tool suggestion. If I can't locate it in my garage I'll buy me a spare plug tester. My wife swears, I have three of every known tool to mankind in there!
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Hammer Time
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Mar 22, 2013, 8:27 AM
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No, no, no. Your car doesn't even have a pick up coil. That is a Cam sensor in there. I means something like the cap, rotor or the distributor not even turning due to a stripped gear or something. Don't even try to change that part as it requires complete dis-assembly of the distributor. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 3:01 PM
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Re: 2001 Chevy Blazer Stalled and Won't Restart
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So right you are, that sensor is looking at a whirling keyhole disc without any teeth. I managed to replace it without removing the distributor from the car,or disassembly, but it was much like a Rubik's cube to master. About 5 minute job, I was kind of lucky were the key landed it. I haven't pulled out the distributor or disturbed the hold down bolt, and would rather not go there, if at all possible. What specifically about my rotor and cap should I be aware of, or looking for? Both are not to old or worn BWD Select brand from Oreilly's Auto Parts. Yes the distributor shaft in rotating in a normal fashion, AKA not frozen up or struck in anyway. I feel up to the challenge ahead - Keep the montra up; Just might start believing it right!
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Hammer Time
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Mar 22, 2013, 3:05 PM
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It didn't fix the car though, did it? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 22, 2013, 3:44 PM
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Sure your right .. It's still acting like a cranking old soul. At least it's a mild 3 knot breeze, and a bit on the cool side temperature wise, 68 F. I prefer 75 F, but that coming in for Saturday around noon. I'm resting up for an all out diagnostic war on that truck. Fuel pressure gauge, notepad, pen and spark tester in hand. Who's to fault fault me, for throwing in a trusty digital voltage meter and a few test lead wires for good meaure. Just reading all those bits of wisdom you passed my way. You guys rule..
(This post was edited by seabeenear20years on Mar 22, 2013, 5:55 PM)
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 23, 2013, 3:01 PM
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So about removing that distributor from the truck, and the expensive scan tool you mentioned red'd to replace iit - I need detail on the exact level of difficulty involved. That scan tool process, can you tell me a little about that? My reason for asking that I believe that it may be a timing issue, possibly involving a stripped dist to cam gear. Stuck at work on Saturday maintenance, again. Thank you in advance. Seabee Near 20 Years!
(This post was edited by seabeenear20years on Mar 23, 2013, 3:05 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Mar 23, 2013, 3:10 PM
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The ignition timing is not adjustable at all. Turning the distributor synchronizes the injectors and the secondary ignition to the reference signal. You cannot use a timing light. There is a data PID in the computer called cam offset that has to be adjusted to zero with the distributor, assuming you don't have a distributor that locks down in one position only and then you would only have to worry about getting it on the correct tooth. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 24, 2013, 9:54 AM
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About that PID - Is this a position or point identifier, much like a hard disk has to reference a specific sequencing of important data, i.e. the boot sector let say. I will help me in my educational process HammerTime. Thank so much and have a nice Sunday sir. Your assistance is invaluable to us that wish to gain modern automotive know how.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 24, 2013, 10:00 AM
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This is not an educational process and i am not a school teacher. This is a question and answer forum to help you get your car started so lets not get carried away here. It is a calculation that the computer monitors and supplies to the tech via scan tool interface. The manufacturer supplies a spec for this data.which is +or- 4 degrees from zero. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 24, 2013, 10:01 AM)
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 24, 2013, 9:25 PM
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Crystal clear, 10-4. Should my distributor shaft have any up play in the cam plate? It seems to lift about 1/8 inch raise in this component when it was checked. this evening. I tried to research it, but it does seem to be a topic to be addressed. The cap button may not be touching at blazer rotor center, which might be a break in tbe energy path. Might need a rebuilt distrib housing. Thoughts.....suggestions appreciated.
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Hammer Time
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Mar 25, 2013, 2:58 AM
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Did you use a spark tester at the plug as advised? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 25, 2013, 7:15 PM
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Hammer Time - yes indeed we (boat mech. and I), got the light at nearest parts counter, and over this weekend repeat our crued test shorting the screwdriver. Substituted in the plug light and it resulted in no spark at plug boot on 5 of 6 tested. The one not touched was next to steering shaft (The BEAR). Covered them twice, looking for traces for stray electrical pathing. I have to retool for distributor reassembly. I dropped my only T-15 star driver in the La Brea tar pitts, just passed the distributor base on trannie casing back. Sorry the weekend was a zoo, really full.
(This post was edited by seabeenear20years on Mar 25, 2013, 7:19 PM)
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 26, 2013, 11:03 PM
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So here's a brief synopsis of the solution. The ignition coil tested low on voltage, replace it. Moved that spring center connector slightly upward on the rotor to make contact. put the cap on to proper placement and lightly firmed in the two screws in the dist. plastic base. Reconnected air snorkle, etc. Put in the key and truck ('Amber' as daughter calls it) fired right up for 3 seconds and then stopped again. Replaced the under frame on rail fuel filter, because it was beyond due for it's replacement. Put on the new filter, tightened it down properly. Turned ignition key and off it went, like it had a new lease on life again. THANK YOU OH SO MUCH, Again you guys are good at this stuff. Much appreciated for your invaluable advice and guidance. I couldn't have done it with you. Have a wonderful Easter season!
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Hammer Time
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Mar 27, 2013, 3:16 AM
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So, in other words, my very first post would have solved the mystery but you side tracked us down 5 other roads first? I hope something was learned here. PS, I have never, ever seen a fuel filter be the sole cause of a "no start" so your problems may not be over yet. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Mar 27, 2013, 3:17 AM)
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nickwarner
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Mar 27, 2013, 4:50 PM
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Unfortunately, if the fuel filter was that clogged it has been overstressing the fuel pump (expensive!!!!) for some time and has greatly shortened its life. I too not sure the whole issue has come to declare itself yet. Time will tell. Just don't be surprised if the pump fails soon. Its a shame more people don't keep up on the servicing of those.
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seabeenear20years
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Mar 27, 2013, 9:26 PM
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Agreed on all accounts (read all the comments above, one last time). I really appreciate all the contributory advise and guidance. My daughter and I have agreed to replace the fuel pump for about $120 each, which will cover all the part costs. Dad gets the dolly experience under the truck and is looking forward to dropping the tank, since it been sometime (between in tank pump replacements), and a real workout pleasure it brings. I guess that makes me a little off, but I get a natural high accomplish-ing projects like this one, and knowing my family is safely driving her truck down the road again. I miss those late teenage years and those fun miles gone by, so long ago. Anyway, have a great Easter weekend all. Seabee for nearly 20 years now, out. ,
(This post was edited by seabeenear20years on Mar 27, 2013, 9:44 PM)
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