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2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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LNXOS100
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Jun 22, 2015, 5:54 AM
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2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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asdfgasdfasdfasdfasdf
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:31 PM)
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Hammer Time
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Jun 22, 2015, 5:58 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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Since the dealer just worked on it I would definitely bring it back to them to check their work. That's too much of a coincidence.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 22, 2015, 6:04 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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Take it right back as HT said. If anyone else messes with it now and they know it you're screwed,
T
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LNXOS100
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Jun 22, 2015, 6:27 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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xgfhsrthaertnzfgnsfgnhxfg
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:34 PM)
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LNXOS100
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Jun 23, 2015, 4:07 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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cbhsdfghea5hERGHAETHRADZFHG
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:37 PM)
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Discretesignals
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Jun 23, 2015, 4:23 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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Why would an intermediate shaft cause that kind of symptom? I can understand a strut mount bearing causing memory steer though.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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LNXOS100
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Jun 23, 2015, 5:16 AM
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asrgtw54yhqaefhw45hwqratjsfghrastjdhsfgh
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:34 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 23, 2015, 6:23 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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OK - Those U-Joints can tighten up or lose needle bearing inside but usually take about forever for an issue. If you just unlock the wheel with the key and turn by hand at that shaft you should notice something. Rusty stain from one or maybe not. If the was the whole issue instantly upon this work I don't personally buy that. I do lube those (no fittings) externally on some and all of my own because I keep vehicles till insane ages and expect no issues by surprise.
Dunno the layout for this exact car and many others either. It may have had an alignment for some reason and didn't think even if so it was that adjustable for "Caster" which kinda forces the wheel back to straight ahead or close naturally not too much unlike a shopping cart's wheels (front) you can see it.
Other? Does this also have a steering damper/shock absorber usually for trucks? If so those can bind right up but should be after it leaked out all oils or perhaps bent from working on this car? Don't think you have one.
Look at that shaft under hood. Is it turning a lot angle wise or closer to dead ahead? Some turn real sharp and would be more likely IMO.
I wouldn't leave evidence that you did anything just yet except test. Try this: Hoist both front wheels, unlock steering wheel and turn wheels from that shaft if nothing found early at a glance. You should be able to steer the car, with wheels hoisted by hand on that or might feel that tight spot? Not sure why that would coincide with the work done? Stuff does happen.
I still smell a fish with this. But if you tried to cause this to fail on purpose not sure how you would either?
It's a stretch but perhaps in hoisting when they did any recall work wheels just hanging at their lowest brought out a lurking issue? Just can't be sure.
If it does end up you do this and problem is magically gone I'd still ask for the old part back to feel or see the problem up close. f a core deposit is on it fine, take it back later and get that back.
Still smelling that fish!
T
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LNXOS100
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Jun 24, 2015, 10:39 AM
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Re: 2005 Chev Cobalt Steering Issue
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dfhetrhqweartnsrtnjsrfmngz
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:35 PM)
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Discretesignals
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Jun 24, 2015, 3:30 PM
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Interesting. Don't understand how changing the electronic power steering motor could cause that. You don't even have to remove the column to change it.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 24, 2015, 3:38 PM
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Hard to compete with TWO hands on duplicate diagnis' of what causes this. At a loss as to what could have been done to cause this when it showed no problem before as you said?
Either luck of the draw or this car had something happen that isn't known when out of your hands?
Groping a straws now. If you set wheels dead ahead and center the steering wheel on center does it turn equally as in # of turns to the stop point both left and right? It should be and needs to be spot on.
Notice in about any vehicle that if you turn off engine, allow wheel to move (unlocked) dead ahead is still close to zero free play. On purpose by design if you did that same test with it turned fully (not stressing anything out) there's freeplay then. That's on purpose so wheel track properly by caster for very sharp turns and don't scuff.
If steering wheel is truly on dead center and free play noted now but not before something went all wrong. Can't think of what common reason would cause both so well right now????
T
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Discretesignals
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Jun 24, 2015, 4:17 PM
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Caster is built in and there is no adjustments for that. I guess I was wrong that an intermediate steering shaft couldn't cause that symptom. Wonder why they are claiming the rack is bad? Guess your right, Tom. They have the advantage of actually looking at the vehicle.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 25, 2015, 4:11 AM
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Right DS - Lost with a web site when TWO shops concur with it in front of them. I didn't think "Caster" was adjustable on most of the front end style vehicles.
Beat on this for no use really. Original OLD rack and pinions had an adjustable pinion stud and lock nut and could make one too tight and would stick when near dead on center. Just loosen those. Ancient and high bet nobody makes those adjustable anymore as it would require talent and some training to assemble a vehicle or just that part.
Of the wild and whacked not really likely is the dang car was hoisted by the whole rack housing and bent it maybe, wheel was forced with both arm and a leg to turn it at all which messed up the intermediate shaft while also placing jack stands on tie rod end shafts.
About that impossible. That or we are being misled by OP - car was in some horrible accident never fixed properly and had this trouble for some time if at all - I doubt that.
If nothing else this new work does NOT have to be done at a dealer if done and if these things didn't totally solve the issues at hand all parties involved were wrong about something????
T
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LNXOS100
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Jun 25, 2015, 6:49 AM
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zdfhesrthndzgnhsfnzgfnxcvbxcvb
(This post was edited by LNXOS100 on Dec 14, 2015, 7:35 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 25, 2015, 8:54 AM
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You are right - can't prove anything and err to it's a coincidence somehow?
First do know that none of us are paid to do or suggest anything other than just personally do our best here. No motive any which way but you will (if you read enough of this crap) find as techs + or owners current or retired do not like to quickly blame techs and shops that IMO the vast majority want to do their best by you.
But: You knew that was coming. Warranty work unless changed since I worked at a new car dealer was paid at the rates the car maker decided not by any local shop rates. Their fix with their parts only. So naturally those jobs can easily end up with the cheapest tech which is frequently the newest one(s) there. They could be the best in the whole place or not yet but there is some motivation to find full pay work possible. Any trade or biz that does something on purpose is a crime - period.
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Salt corrosion: I'm in the world's worst rust belt in Massachusetts. More road salt is used here than any place I know as folks demand plain wet roads instantly and constantly no matter what weather event thru Winter. Add ocean salts it's just more on top. Rock salts used on roads is mined and lots more corrosive than sea salts BTW and melts down to ~5-10F which is lower than sea salts can. That's a reason for total surprises and why I oil those intermediate shafts on purpose so never knew of a bad one that I took care of till a vehicle collapsed from rust in general. DO ASK SPECIFICALLY FOR PERIODIC CHECKS OF FRAME STRONG SPOTS, BRAKE LINES, FUEL LINES EVEN TRANS LINES AND COOLERS FOR THINGS!
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So we tried to figure this out with any certainty and just can't or I can't. As said hard to contradict what a tech finds in person.
Good luck with what you decide to do and the final fix for this,
Tom
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