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92 caravan sparks, fuels, timed-no start-Help!


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edensvision
New User

Jul 22, 2007, 5:47 PM

Post #1 of 3 (2668 views)
post icon 92 caravan sparks, fuels, timed-no start-Help! Sign In

ok, here is a cut and paste of what my husband posted on didgetalk. I thought to coime here seeing we are ut of any ideas and need help!It all started when the crank shaft key broke while on the road. Everything ran but the power steerinf went out. We tow it home, work on it, replace key and balancer, it starts but doesn't go above 30mph. We replace spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. It then wouldn't start but we got a back fire puff of smoke only once. Since then it turns over but won't start at all. (we have done all other suggestions including taking of catalac converter, checking if banks were reveresed, and still can't get it started though it should start.

Here's are his words from the previous forum. I'm trying to get some more help becasue he and his dad is just disgusted.


I'm the guy acutally working on the car.

The check engine light only came on when the key snapped. Of course when that happened, the alternator, AC and power steering were no longer operating, so it was throwing codes all over the place. When I took it apart, I unhooked the battery (gotta be safe!), and lost all those codes. Since then, the check engine light hasn't come back on, even when it was running rough.

Here's the full detail of what happened:

During the process of replacing the broken key, I noticed that one of the screws in the distributor cap had broken in half (not sure how), so I decided to replace it. While taking the cap off, the other screw broke as well. Since I don't have any precision tools, when I tried to drill the screws out, I ended up with the screw holes about 1/16th of an inch off of where they were supposed to be. I put everything back together, and that's when it began running rough with no power. After two hours of fiddling with the distributor, I was not able to get it in time. I tried moving the distributor one tooth in each direction, but it wouldn't start at all in either of these positions. That's when i decided to take it for a second opinion. The mechanic that looked at it said it was probably the timing, but he couldn't do anything with it until I replaced the distributor (because of the out of line screw holes). That's when I replaced the distributor with a used one. When I put the distributor in, I put the cap on and used a chalk to mark the position of the #1 plug wire on the cap down to the distributor. I turned all my timing marks to TDC and lined my rotary button up with the chalk mark. That's when I got the backfire, but no start. I turned the rotary button back one tooth, and now it won't start.

Here are the things I've checked:

1. All three timing marks (crank and both cams) are dead on where they are supposed to be.
2. The rings and valves appear to be good as a pressure test on several of the cylinders shows 140 lbs. I wouldn't think it would hold near that much if the rings or valves were broken.
3. The #1 piston is up when the rotary button is pointing at the #1 plug wire.

Also, I'm pretty sure fouling the plugs wasn't very hard. They were all burnt and covered with carbon when I pulled them out. To be honest, I'm not sure how they had been firing as long as they had even without any other problems. The new plugs have not fouled and are still firing correctly.

Basically, I feel like the van SHOULD be in time, but it obviously isn't. Can you suggest a better way to check the position of the rotary button?

If I just turn all the timing marks to their proper positions, shouldn't that put the #1 piston at TDC on the firing stroke?

I took the #1 spark plug out and put a screwdriver in the hole to be 100% certain that it was a TDC when the timing mark on the crank was lined up. I then lined up the two camshaft marks and put the belt back on, making sure that they were still lined up after I released the tensioner. I marked the position of the #1 cylinder on the distributor so that I could make sure the rotary button is lined up correctly. It is as close to being in time as I think it could possibly be without having it running and putting a timing light on it.

In addition, I ran a compression test on all the cylinders. Each one if them is between 130 and 150 PSI. I checked to ensure that gas is getting to the cylinders and after replacing the spark plugs and wires I ensured that the plugs are firing. I removed the air breather to ensure that it is getting air and even went so far as to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold to make sure it wasn't getting too much back pressure. With all of that done, it is firing a few times, but it will not catch or run.


thomas74
User

Sep 3, 2007, 3:32 PM

Post #2 of 3 (2651 views)
Re: 92 caravan sparks, fuels, timed-no start-Help! Sign In

first i would get another distibuter, second i would make sure it is in time you say you checked but it doesnt hurt to check again the old saying is measure twice cut once, does apply in this field, i would take out #1 plug and put my figure over the whole and have some1 to bump it untill u feel compression then u put the crank right on its mark then check the cam sounds like when your woodruff key broke your crank gear could have spun on you hope you get it fix let us know good luck


thomas74
User

Sep 3, 2007, 3:38 PM

Post #3 of 3 (2650 views)
Re: 92 caravan sparks, fuels, timed-no start-Help! Sign In

also if it is a 3.0 the rotor button dont point at the #1 tower if you look inside your cap and follow the tower you see it if i remember right should btween 3-6 been a while make sure your distributer is in time.






 
 
 






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