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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Mar 19, 2008, 10:00 AM
Post #1 of 7
(1409 views)
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Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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hey guys, Tom recommended i come to you for my dilema.
brief back ground.
2002 Ford Ranger 4.0 XTL 4wd 10" rear drums.
this all started when my rear drums were dragging.
new drums, new shoes new hardware kits.
drums were still dragging even with the starwheel adjusters bottomed out!!!
replaced both rear parking brake cables.
drivers side drum spins freely with starwheel bottomed out
passenger side is EXTREMELY tight, its a struggle to turn with two hands. the front shoe is extended more then the rear shoe.
i opened the bleeder and brake line on the wheel cylinder thinking it wasnt retracting, but i couldnt get it to bottom out anymore. leading me to believe its something still with the brake cable. the lever arm appears to be fully retracted and the coil spring on the cable isnt compressed.
the parking brake on the 02 Ranger is SELF adjusting. there is no manual adjustment. the manual says in order to reset tension after service depress and release the pedal several times.
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Mar 19, 2008, 10:08 AM
Post #2 of 7
(1406 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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Here are pics of the coupler for the parking brake where the intermediate cable joins the left/right rear cables
here is an overview of the brake assembly (Yes i know about the antiseize lol i didnt have brake grease on hand and didnt feel like going to the store. its not on the friction material)
the anit-rattle spring on the parking brake equilizer bar is compressed is it supposed to be?
Tom kinda compared whats going on to venetian window blinds. i cant get the two sides to pull equally.
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 19, 2008, 1:08 PM
Post #3 of 7
(1402 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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To add: Way2old, Dan, Jim, Dave - anyone---- I've never had to fool with this type self adjusting parking brake cable which seems with a few PMs back and forth that is too tight for the new brake job and drums don't free spin over this job with everything retracted - star adjuster was at bottom - stuck cables new, and seems like all is in place?? So - I do recall these get set by just using the parking brake which must coil up front cable till tight and allow a preset of release which is doesn't seem to do - or how to you make it release more?? I didn't know.
I do recall the Ford rear disc brakes (70s at least) the park brake pedal would way over realease and you would just keep pumping up the pedal till brake was tight - designed like that and none ever failed??
It was my thought that this was like the roll up window shades that if you don't have them wound to a certain spot they wouldn't go up - kind of reverse of what I think this is doing.
That bar that I termed "anti-rattle" spring for the connecting bar looks fully compressed to me and I'd like to see some forward and back motion in those in any of the drum brakes of this general style - bet it has none and is making the shoes anchor there even if just an unseen tidbit. Ideas guys on how to loosen that cable?
Tom
Ps: For impatient family usually I would just take that connecting bar right out when of course they couldn't wait for a new cable to come in when just a frozen cable was the issue........
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Double J
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 19, 2008, 3:10 PM
Post #4 of 7
(1399 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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Sounds like /looks like everything is in place...hard to tell enough with that view...
Just thinking out loud here...is the parking brake equalizer (bar) in place properly? should be over the shoe and the lever.
Stupid question...I know..but have to ask it...
Are these the correct shoes for the truck?
Does it free up with the cable disconnected?...or equalizer removed..
Still thinking here
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way2old
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 19, 2008, 3:41 PM
Post #5 of 7
(1397 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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Hey dmac. Can you post pictures of the rear of the backing plate? Need to see the cable attaching area. Or use a hammer and punch and see if you can move the adjuster any more. The cam is bad about rusting up and siezing in place. Let us know.
Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Mar 19, 2008, 5:13 PM
Post #6 of 7
(1395 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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i totally disassembled the starwheel, and cleaned/lubed the threads. so its truely bottomed out.
in the garage today, i deceided to try putting the old right/rear cable back in to see if it helped any. the exterior is totally identical in length and design. but i discoverd the actual braided cable is approx 1.5" shorter on the Raybestos replacement then the OEM stock one. So i ordered a new one from Ford and well see if that helps.
i tell ya, you can really drive yourself nuts trying to get something to work properly if the parts arent made to specs jesus.
keeping the fingers crossed for now. btw i ordered two new wheel cylinders from ford too since i AGAIN have everything totally disassembled
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 20, 2008, 12:30 AM
Post #7 of 7
(1391 views)
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Re: Calling Way20ld & JIM N
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actual braided cable is approx 1.5" shorter on the Raybestos replacement then the OEM stock one.
Egad dmac - that's a lot! That is quite likely out of range of any auto adjust and might explain why over the decades never had a problem with this area like this. I always matched up old and new on the floor even if I'd cut them out.
You want real hair loss - buy the generic "make your own" cable kit and cut and fit those in! New wheel cylinders can only help. You said they are on order. I get those new (aftermarket) for about $10 each and see closer to $40 for some - don't know why the large spread on price??
Hang in there - this will be all set soon,
T
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