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Rlk6
New User
Apr 8, 2016, 8:46 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1627 views)
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I bought a 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9 v6 sport with 70k miles one it a few weeks ago. Drove it about 50 miles from where I bought it. Drove fine no weird noises or anything to suspect. Went home parked it drove it around town for a few days. Then one day I go to the store and come out and it doesn't start. Only after cranking it and pumping the pedel to the floor repeatedly would it start... Barely and as soon as I let off the gas it died. Finally got it started by pumping the pedal again and managed to get it I to gear with my foot still on the gas. After driving around the parking lot till it warmed up a lite could I let off the gas without it stalling. Drove it back and parked it and shut it off and tried to start it again and still wouldn't unless I pumped the pedal. Let it sit for a day or two and came out and it started just fine. Drove it down the road and went in a store and back to the same problem. Let it sit again after managing to get it home. Finally a couple days later my mechanic comes to pick it up a d it start just fine and he drove it maybe half a mile and it died. He said it wouldn't go over 30mph even with pedal all the way down and it died and would not start at all. Got it to the garage by towing it. Replaced the plugs wires and cap and ignition coil. Truck still will not start even with starting fluid. No codes come up after scanning it and no check engine light either. Fuel pump does hum when key turned and if turn the key multiple times and try to start it there seems to be a lite improvement but no start. Has apart and fuel. Tested pressure from injectors at 45psi. And somewhere during all the cranking and stuff the brake light came on and it never was before. Battery tests fine. After i discovered turning the key multiple times to engage fuel pump more and spraying with starting fluid it seemed to finally fire while i smashed the pedal for a second then dead. White smoke poured from the exhause and it smelled weird... No clue how to even describe it. Nothing ive ever smelled from a vehicle. Any help would be very appreciated
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2016, 4:16 AM
Post #2 of 9
(1608 views)
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The first thing to understand is that pumping the throttle on a fuel injected car does nothing but exercise your foot.
That white smoke could be telling. Have you checked your coolant level in the radiator? Were there any overheating issues?
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2016, 6:35 AM
Post #3 of 9
(1601 views)
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The white smoke could be all the raw fuel and stuff you were spraying into it. Shouldn't your mechanic be able to figure this out without you finding out how to troubleshoot this for him/her?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 9, 2016, 6:36 AM)
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Rlk6
New User
Apr 9, 2016, 7:48 AM
Post #4 of 9
(1595 views)
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Radiator was full. Didn't overheat. I will test all that hopefully today and reply with results
Also the truck had maybe 1.5 gallons of gas in it when I purchased it and I filled it up on the way home. Idk if it could be bad gas or something related to that
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2016, 8:06 AM
Post #5 of 9
(1589 views)
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Was this sold as is?
You should follow HT's advice above first. Write down your results and post them up.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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kev2
Veteran
Apr 9, 2016, 8:15 AM
Post #6 of 9
(1586 views)
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"Tested pressure from injectors at 45psi." 45 would be a tough start when cold and a older "worn" eng...
I show 50psi + or - 5 ... Can someone double check this spec-
PS - SCAN for codes!!! yes even if light is OFF especially if light is off as poster just acquired vehicle -
(This post was edited by kev2 on Apr 9, 2016, 8:17 AM)
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Rlk6
New User
Apr 9, 2016, 8:33 AM
Post #7 of 9
(1581 views)
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I bought it from a private owner so yes as is.
And mechanic said he scanned it with his MODIS scanner and no codes showed up
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2016, 8:46 AM
Post #8 of 9
(1578 views)
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You should still follow the procedure listed above. That way we have some data to help point you and your mechanic in the right direction.
If you and your mechanic feels that the fuel is contaminated, you could always disable the pump and see if the engine runs off an alternate fuel source. Those pressurized fuel injector cleaners tools are great for eliminating a fuel quality issue or delivery problem. I would try that after making sure that it has everything above that HT posted.
Disable pump, block off pressure and return, install tool and fill with known good fuel, set pressure, and see if the engine runs off that.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 9, 2016, 8:53 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Apr 9, 2016, 11:38 AM
Post #9 of 9
(1561 views)
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Here's what I found ............................... Engine at curb idle 339 ±34 kPa (49.2 ±5 psi)
Here's the test procedure
All fuel systems are equipped with a fuel tank module mounted, combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator.
- The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled by engine vacuum.
Procedure
- Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail.
- Start and warm engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 kPa +/- 34 kPa (49.2 psi +/- 5 psi) at idle.
- If engine runs but pressure is below 44.2 psi , check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not kinked, replace fuel pump module assembly. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation.
- If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi , electric fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective.
- Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator.
- Certain filter/regulators may be serviced separately and some require the replacement of the fuel pump module assembly Refer to fuel filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator Removal/Installation for more information.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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