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Mystery Issues - Dodge Stratus 97
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Waterdust
New User
May 4, 2011, 2:05 PM
Post #1 of 1
(2634 views)
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Mystery Issues - Dodge Stratus 97
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Car: Dodge Stratus
Year: 1997
Type: ES
Miles: 116,883 (at the time of post)
Engine: Probably 6 Cyl. I know its not the smaller one.
State & weather most driven in: CA-Sacramento 97-2010 (as I understand)
Repairs Done Recently (meaning within last 3-6 months):
Oil & filter change with hi-mileage oil type every 3k miles (Jiffy-lube Work)
Replaced ALL brakes "Fully"
Replaced Radiator (New One)
Replaced the oil pressure switch?/sensor? (Can't remember which name to call it)
Replaced headlight bulbs & 1 back brake light (right side).
Replaced the Thermostat itself (responsible for many check engine lights being on)
Replaced Gas cap with key-locking version, confirmed working no leaks.
Alignment Done & 4 Brand New Tires
Note 1: An before someone asks, yes the gas cap is turned 3 clicks or more.
Note 2: I have spare fuses, those small colored ones if needed for w/e reason.
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Problem Today: Started car after being parked for 2 days (yes finally some time off from work,
should be a good thing.. I guess not). Car began shaking quite a bit, turned off car, opened hood
checked fluid levels, the only thing wrong was the oil level being half way down from full which I
sort of expected as you'll see in the history down below.
To make matters worse the car appears to have points where it doesn't want to speed up* and
points where it seems like it doesn't want to stop accelerating either (new issue). Lastly the
"check engine light" is also on.
(Car history has related notes where * marks appear)
New Info: I took it into Jiffy Lube because I thought the oil was half way down.. well all the fluids
checked out just fine. I still appear to have a small leak somewhere (prolly my oil) but otherwise
everything is fine according to them, as for my check engine light the guy was nice enough to
hook up his device an pull the code from it, it said there was 2 codes but could only display one
an that was P0304, which he reread the code a few times to be sure then reset the check engine
light to be off to test wither or not it would come back, so far it has not.. I will update this if it
does return. The car shaking appears to have only happened that once an the pressing the gas
pedal down issue appears to be going away on its own little by little -.- how am I ever going to
get this issue fixed if its never around long enough for me to take it in? I hope someone here can
figure this one out.
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All the car history I have:
Car previously owned by in-law who was the only owner of this vehicle since it came off the assembly
line (possibly in July 2010 a tune-up was done by said person, will confirm later).
Alignment done recently, no related damage or wear of any kind anywhere.
Mechanic can confirm all belts are good and in-line, I've looked myself with him an can confirm this for
what its worth (I've seen a chart showing different issues for belts).
Transmission fluid line dry-rotted enough to allow severe leak, this occurred during radiator flush &
drive to work shortly there-after which then was towed back for "clamping of leak" rather than replacing
the line itself as mechanic said this was not yet necessary. This flush is prior to the replacement of the
new radiator, I've left these details as is for the future history.
* During a long trip across the country the car experienced issue where gas pedal needed to be pushed
to the floor or sometimes slightly harder than usual to keep highway speeds or even above 25mph
in some cases. We thought this issue was only due to mountain "climbing". It recently had a moment
on a highway (during another small trip) where it needed a slightly harder press to keep highway speed.
[Today this issue has re-surfaced for some reason]
Jiffy lube has continued to report since the car was given to us that oil is leaking, granted slowly it is. My
mechanic has said in the past this was not the case up until recently where he suggested a minor
gasket replacement (around $250 time, parts, taxes included) would resolve this issue.
Should I buy a diagnostic tool to scan the car myself? if so which one is recommended? what does
anyone here think about "carMD" an their tool?
I look forward to all professional responses.
(This post was edited by Waterdust on May 6, 2011, 9:53 AM)
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