|
| | |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
aazteca88@yahoo.com
Aug 24, 2007, 6:52 PM
Post #1 of 6
(4715 views)
|
Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
12 months ago brought my 98 Sunfire in for some front end work. As a courtesy they adjusted my rear brakes, saying they were so far out of adjustment that it's like I was only stopping on the fronts. Started having the rear brakes lock up on me, even on dry pavement. Brought it back to the same shop two more times to have the brakes re-adjusted.
Problem started happening again a few months later, in December of 06. Brought it in, they said my rear drums were worn down and needed replacing. In June, started having the same locking up problem. Brought it to Midas, who said my rear drums were (again) worn down and needed replacing. Replaced again. Didn't solve locking up problem. Brought it back 3 more times for adjustments, they also tried bleeding out the brake system and loosening the E brake.
July-still locking up. Brought it to the dealer. Said everything looks OK mechanically. They adjusted the brakes. Problem continued, although it mostly does it during wet conditions. Brought it back this August. They said it's not the ABS. They recommended replacing the shoes-even though they are not worn out. They are claiming the shoes I have are an inferior product and they want to put GM parts on there. They still don't know if this will solve the problem. They said the next step would be trying new drums (GM). I am not confident this will help so I haven't done it yet.
Any advice is appreciated!
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 25, 2007, 2:28 AM
Post #2 of 6
(4710 views)
|
|
Re: Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
What's probably happening is the parking brake is not releasing properly or return spring(s) are either backwards or have failed. Wheel cylinders may be frozen and don't retract well or at all. There are inferior brake linings but the problem is usually noise, faster wear out, or funky behavior when damp but not this. Anti-lock releases brake pressure it doesn't add it by itself.
By the time the parking brake cable gets adjusted more is worng. Once it's right it should stay within range and the back brake clearance is the issue not the adjustment to the cable. That raises hell when new shoes or drums are installed when that's been messed with. Are you going to do some of this yourself or is all of it being sent out?
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
Aug 26, 2007, 12:59 PM
Post #3 of 6
(4706 views)
|
|
Re: Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
I've been bringing it in. That's why I don't understand why this keeps happening- half a dozen techs have looked at it and no one seems to know what to do.
Very frustrating.
Midas wouldn't further adjust the E brake saying if they adjusted it anymore it could cause more lockup. It's so far out of adjustment I have to pull it about 15 clicks (straight up) and it doesn't hold well.
The locking up is worse when the brakes are cold first thing after starting up, as well as in wet conditions. I've never put GM parts on it before but do you think putting those parts on would be beneficial?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 26, 2007, 3:32 PM
Post #4 of 6
(4704 views)
|
|
Re: Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
I deal with one of New England's biggest brake warehouses myself. OE is not necessary to get quality. My current favorite brands are Centric, Auto Specialty, and Bendix. Places like the muffer shops always order the cheapest stuff they can get which is legal and up to vehicle specs but some of it looks like crap and there's no savings in the long run.
Those places advertize prices for brake work which is a little tough as you really don't know what a car is going to need until you are there. I always asked my customers what they wanted but wouldn't let them leave with an unsafe job. The better stuff is balanced better and the linings used are less likely to be noisy. Parking brake cable should be of the best as they rust up here badly and the good replacements are better than most OE stuff!
If cables are working properly and drum and rotors are within spec you shouldn't have to adjust the cable. Drum brakes don't always self adjust well and disc adjust by their nature. Hardware for brake jobs is often overlooked to save very little money and can wreck the job if it's not real good.
Just FYI, almost all parking brakes should hold the car well at about 7 clicks. If adjusted too tight brakes can drag with assorted loads carried in the vehicle. Mechanics should know this!! I'm shocked that all these people have looked at this and don't know what to do for you,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Guest
Anonymous Poster
Aug 26, 2007, 9:44 PM
Post #5 of 6
(4702 views)
|
|
Re: Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for your advice.
I'm surprised they never adjusted the E brake but I'll mention it this week when I bring it back to try the new shoes.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 27, 2007, 2:34 AM
Post #6 of 6
(4701 views)
|
|
Re: Rear brake advice!
|
Sign In
|
|
Thread got long so I somewhat lost it here. The E brake adjustment is a one time thing. It should never need another adjustment unless cables are replaced or really have stretched. The dia. of drum and star adjuster for the rear brakes with shoes are are not worn out is all you should need. They should self adjust when backing up and hitting the brake but tend to quit doing that with time on the parts so manual rear brake adjustment is called for or replace the star adjuster and the bar that contacts it and it will last.
YOU DON'T ADJUST THE BACK BRAKES WITH THE PARKING BRAKE CABLE. THAT MAY FEEL LIKE IT WORKS BUT WILL TRASH THE BACK BRAKES!!!! IF YOUR MECHANICS DON'T KNOW THAT THEN YOU NEED NEW MECHANICS. DRUM BRAKES HAVE BEEN AROUND SINCE THE BEGINNING OF BRAKES. THEY ARE BASICALLY SIMPLE AND OUTLAST DISC BRAKES MOST OF THE TIME - LIKE TWO TO ONE. THE FAULT WITH DRUM BRAKES IS THEY CAN LOCK UP FASTER THAN DISC BRAKES, DON'T SHED DIRT OR WATER WELL OR DRY OUT QUICKLY AFTER HITTING A PUDDLE WHICH WAS MORE A PROBLEM WITH FRONT DRUM BRAKES.
Back brakes don't work all that hard in most applications and can easily pass 100k without corrosion problems with just periodic cleaning and simple adjustment of the star adjuster.
Just find a mechanic over 40 years old and your problems will be solved!
T
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
