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oil in engine


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selaphayn
Anonymous Poster
selaphayn@yahoo.com

Apr 21, 2008, 9:15 AM

Post #1 of 7 (1567 views)
post icon oil in engine Sign In

I Have a 72 Dodge Dart that has recently has been showing signs of water in the engine.IT has a slant six that is still running and drivable.My wife drove the car through a deep puddle during a flood and I've heard that it could blow the head gasket but also seize the engine.I'm wondering what are the possible causes are,and fixes and cost could be.The oil by the add is creamy but the dip stick seems to be fairly normal.I really need some help in this department,and hope i don't need a total rebuild.


dave284
Enthusiast / Moderator
dave284 profile image

Apr 21, 2008, 11:38 AM

Post #2 of 7 (1561 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

If the vehicle sounds good then your probaly alright,....for water to get into the oil is has to be a crack head/block/ or gasket. And its more than likely to be a gasket....which runs $11.00 to $19.00. Also the head would need to be shaved at a machine shop....cost about $25.00 to $35.00.....and if your willing, you could do it yourself if you have tools. And for as a total overhaul....I don't think so unless you have knocking and smoking going on or any other internal damage. The job itself isn't that complicated......but the head will be heavy....
Some mechanics charge between $125.00 to $200.00 here...thats just labor.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Apr 21, 2008, 4:30 PM

Post #3 of 7 (1555 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

Guess: Has the temp and general moisture the car been exposed to been extreme - like real cold then a warmer rainy day or two, short trip without fully warming up?

This might just be condensation in the engine and you'll also see it under oil filler cap. If oil level reads properly, car isn't overheating and smoking out tailpipe, knocking noises that are brand new AND engine didn't stall out because of the deeper water driven thru then I'd just change the oil and drive it on a good highway run. Wipe down the dipstick and oil filler cap and see if this returns quickly.

Some cars just do that unless you know it never has and just checked this because of the situation with deep water. The engine would have to have been seriously under water to get water in with the oil just from that.

Brakes and wheel bearing won't be happy with driving thru deep water.

These are tough engines and I know it's now old as the hills but I don't recall a lot of head gasket ever going on these - even with nasty abuse!

T



Double J
Veteran / Moderator
Double J profile image

Apr 21, 2008, 4:41 PM

Post #4 of 7 (1553 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

Dave and Tom already gave you some sound advise.

I just wanted to jump in here....
This post got me thinking about the good old days...
Worked on many a slant 6 engine ...
Agree with Tom
These were/are some tough little engines...you had to really try to ruin one of these...
Don't remember doing many headgaskets are these back in the day.
Most of the time the bodies rusted right out from under them.
Had some come in sounding off like a sewing machine and still ran forever...

Good luck with it

Jim


selaphayne
New User

Apr 23, 2008, 5:34 PM

Post #5 of 7 (1542 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

I just wanted to add a little information,The temp gauge doesn't really seem to work although the other gauges are functioning.So i really can't say if it is overheating.the radiator is still full and doesn't show visible signs of oil.There is a little bit of white smoke when it is first started and moisture out the tailpipe.I really love this car and outside of this it seems to be in great shape physically so I want to fix but not at the costs I've been hearing around the web,which seems almost the cost of a new rebuilt.I also can not take this project on my own beyond my skill level.What is the best way to price out this job and will it be worth it seeing as I only paid 1,000 for it but a fairly sound car otherwise.I'm afraid if I try to sell it will be difficult with this problem,any thought or ideas would be greatly appreciated.


Double J
Veteran / Moderator
Double J profile image

Apr 23, 2008, 6:37 PM

Post #6 of 7 (1535 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

I agree with Tom here...

I would change the oil and filter and drive it and see what happens before jumping thru too many hoops.
I would also fix the temperature gauge..Guessing the temperature switch on the engine maybe faulty.
That way you can monitor engine temps and know if a problem may exist...
The little bit of white smoke on start up could be from oil and the moisture/condensation is normal as you know.

I dont believe you got any water in the engine from driving thru the flood..it would have had to been pretty deep and car almost submerged and damage would have occured.

As far as spending money in case you need to repair it since you only paid $1000.00 for it...thats entirely up to you.
Depends on the condition of the car and if you want to invest anymore into it.
Sure cant buy 'em like this anymore.

There are old 60's 70's muscle cars that are commanding huge money on the market...not saying this will ..

This to me is one of those old cars thats fun to own and drive and may not get much for but its worth having..

Lets see what the others say

Jim


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Apr 24, 2008, 1:44 AM

Post #7 of 7 (1527 views)
Re: oil in engine Sign In

This car is a keeper if not rusted: As bullet proof as cars ever got and the choice year to boot - last year for points in distributor for these but just get an old f*rt to set them and forget them.

You can't find a more DIY friendly anything out there. I've owned many of these and the similar names of the same car, Valiant, Swinger, Signet and so on.

One pill is if you still have front drum brakes the wheel cylinder's brake line is a pest - that's about all I can think of that's tricky on these cars.

Engine is probably just fine. Just use it. If it's noisy get a pro to help and adjust the valve lash as they are mechanical/solid lifters and nobody ever used to adjust them and they quickly sound new again - that job is EASY on these.

More fun with these: You can put new brushes in an alternator for these without taking off the alternator and go another decade - starter motor is simple and so on.... Keep it!

T







 
 
 






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