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brakes
Anonymous Poster
buschbtls@aol.com
Oct 20, 2007, 7:09 AM
Post #1 of 2
(1508 views)
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pulling to the right
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hello i have a 95 t-bird that is pulling to the right when and only when the brakes are applied. i thought it was a bad caliper so i replaced two front calipers and pads,rotors were in good shape,also the brake lines running to the back wheels were leaking so i also replaced them. the problem is alot bettter but not gone i was wondering if this could be a wheel bearing problem and if so witch side would cause a pull to the right. or am i missing something...thanks
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 20, 2007, 8:15 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1506 views)
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Re: pulling to the right
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Rear Brakes don't usually cause much noticeable pulling. Pulling to the right suggests that brake is working harder or sometimes because it's cooler than the left.
Don't wait on this or your new brake job could be ruined. Jack up both front wheels and spin them. Does one feel sticky and won't spin free or as many turns when you spin it as the other?
Here's what you do: One should be dragging a bit or a lot. Take wheels off, hit brakes again to set them in case they were disturbed and spin again by the lug nuts. One will be dragging or too hard to spin in your hands. If not I'm confused but look to see if one has more dust or color on the rotor. Blue color or more dust suggests that one. The dragging one while stuck/dragging - just open the bleeder just enough to let a smidge of brake fluid out and retighten. That brake will probably free up now. That is almost always a restriction in the rubber flex hose that can fail to allow pressure in but not return it. The metal lines about never do that - they usually just leak as you found in the rear.
If that proves the problem so far you should replace both the flex hoses. Go easy here. You said you rusted out a rear line already so I just know you will need foul language in the battle to remove the brake line from the hose where it attaches to the body. Use PB on that connection at the flare nut that will try to spin the line and if it does it should be replaced back to where line is good. Use proper flaring tool and union to be legal.
You have a chance with the original stuff with PB and if you are good with oxy-acet can pin point get the stuck nut glowing a little quickly and rock it back and forth usually frees it up. Fast local heat or forget it as it weakens things an shouldn't be used near a rubber line that is to be kept. Propane heat is too slow and not very useful for this. Heat should be a last choice. Use good 5 point flare nut wrenches - Snap-On makes a six point flare nut wrench which will grab these even better.
Good luck,
T
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