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Search Auto Parts Search 2002 gmc sierra 5.3 vortec ac diagnosis? Sign up here!   Email This Post Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> AC Auto Repair Help Forum Downtime89 User Jun 8, 2015, 12:30 PM Post #1 of 4 (1501 views) 2002 gmc sierra 5.3 vortec ac diagnosis? Sign In Hey guys first off my problem is my truck randomly blows cold air, it cycles between cold and hot....most of the time when it starts blowing hot it dont stop till next time i drive like after work or something. Here is a pic of the freon gauge i just tested. Its about 93 degrees here right now if you need that to read this gauge ac was running during this picture but blowing hot air. I turned off the ac and immediately tested again and it read the same. ok so it wont let me upload so im linking it to my facebook page.... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200713180189675&set=a.2489087084310.68077.1766726282&type=1&theater Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Jun 8, 2015, 1:28 PM Post #2 of 4 (1487 views) Re: 2002 gmc sierra 5.3 vortec ac diagnosis? Sign In Facebook page down too. Doesn't really matter. It can blow cold then quits. You need to note if outer hub of compressor is engaged or not WHEN not blowing cool. A somewhat common reason is the air gap of the clutch is worn too large. Check that anyway. If too much over .020 it probably can't engage which is magnetic force diminished by heat some from working and a running engine + temps in general. If one slipped it would quit and be red hot and don't think that. That's my first guess and thing to check. If you don't have a feeler gauge just use a common biz card. If it falls out folded it's too large a gap. That doesn't mean there's isn't another reason just a test for that, T Discretesignals Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Jun 8, 2015, 2:44 PM Post #3 of 4 (1479 views) Re: 2002 gmc sierra 5.3 vortec ac diagnosis? Sign In When you state it radomly blows hot...do you mean hot as if the heater was on? When it is blowing hot, put your hands on the bigger line coming out of the evaporator and see if it is ice cold. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved. (This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 8, 2015, 2:45 PM) Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Jun 8, 2015, 3:37 PM Post #4 of 4 (1476 views) Re: 2002 gmc sierra 5.3 vortec ac diagnosis? Sign In Clip from post #1 Quote">>Here is a pic of the freon gauge i just tested. Its about 93 degrees here right now if you need that to read this gauge ac was running during this picture but blowing hot air.<<" ********************** Guess I/we need to know just what gauge was used while what was happening at the compressor. Pic that didn't show or spot closed might have helped. If capable of blowing cold then not after it cycles (I guessed that you didn't say that) it probably just doesn't re-engage till whole thing engine and all has cooled down some. DS mentioned the line that should be cool/cold but not iced. It would be the larger of two refrigerant lines connected to the compressor a bit down and under with one smaller belt if like ones I know. Forget but think it's all on it's own and adjusted manually not part of the other larger belt at all. Compressor may appear like it's working as pulley still turns all the time engine does but the center hub only turns when it's compressing gas and you said it can blow cool/cold so it does sometimes at least. Need to know if that center quits turning and what is this "gauge" you have? Means little to nothing if compressor isn't engaged that's just static system pressure then. So far this isn't a refrigerant issue IMO it's an engagement issue or if as DS asked blowing real hot air not just ambient air changes what to do next. 93F ambient temperature if real going thru ducts will feel pretty dang warm and warmer than that just from some engine heat. Hard to explain sometimes that clutch air gap. If this has too much it's like a magnet help too far from an item and doesn't in this case pull in that outer hub. Said when hotter metal is less magnetic by quite a bit and in use for a while normally warmer and just can't engage again. Those if so also if you tap on that outer hub carefully when it should be engaged would engage and work till next time it needs to cycle off. Forget this gauge thing unless you can show what it is, it's probably junk. If you don't have both pressures with real temps while engaged and real output temp at center vent inside the info means nothing from what I think you are using - a death kit gauge with colors - right? Throw that out if so. OK - for pics try again with another try with like Photobucket and link to the pic. If you just say what turns, what doesn't and how the hoses feel should be enough for now, T   Email This Post   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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