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mec4vic
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Jun 2, 2012, 5:53 AM
Post #1 of 32
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Have a 95 Honda Civic 1.6L with 342K miles. I've put in new a/c items: compressor, drier, condenser, evaporator, expansion valve, one hose (condenser to compressor) and flushed out the existing lines. How much a/c oil do I have to put in the system, just 4 oz or 4 oz plus addition for each new item ( total = 4 oz + 2-5/16 oz)?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:17 AM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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A chart right in front of me lists 5 oz of PAG 46. Charts can be wrong but since the total charge weight of 134a was just 19 oz that sounds right. That amount is for when system is known totally empty of oil. With all you replaced there probably isn't much in remaining parts if any significant amount.
Did you spin compressor pre installation to lube it awaiting the charge? Was there oil in compressor when you got it? Gotta know this stuff as too much oil will reduce cooling power or if very excessive could lock up your new compressor and you would be back to do stuff all over again if that ruined a compressor.
Too little oil would cause early compressor failure so it's critical to pay attention as you are be asking. Sux but if you have to and compressor was not pre spun with oil you may want to take it out and do that. Dump out what was in it when replacing parts and measure the amount you got out.
You should put most oil spread thru the system before all items are hooked up and most up stream - low side so compressor gets lube quickly.
A locked thread above in this section has some great info for the final charge up and worth reading titled "CHARGING PROCEDURES........."
When in doubt check and double check. Also know that PAG oils don't like exposure to air as they absorb moisture out of air and become acidic - not good for the system,
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:21 AM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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You changed every main component that would hold oil so I would put a total of about 6 ounces but it would have been better to put 4 of them in the compressor and introduce the other 2 during charging. As Tom pointed out, be sure to rotate the compressor a dozen times before starting
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mec4vic
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:24 AM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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No did not spin the compressor and when I bought the compressor at the a/c shop they told me the compressor has no oil. I still have not connected the hoses to the compressor and the hoses as well as the compressor are cap. You suggest that in adding the oil to the compressor I should spin it as I add?
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Discretesignals
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:29 AM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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You spin the compressor drive plate by hand after you had vacuumed and charged the system. Before you turn on the system the first time.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:29 AM
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I know it suks but I'd take it back out and spin it off car. I think this is too tight of a location to do this on car. Might be wrong on that but the risks are nasty!
T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:33 AM
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You hit before I did DS. I wasn't sure of location of this compressor but think it's down low. Some are real tight and hard to spin by hand so if done on car be careful not to hurt the outer plate which is turning the guts of the compressor,
T
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mec4vic
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:34 AM
Post #8 of 32
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Re: A/C oil filling
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Why is that necessary?
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Discretesignals
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:37 AM
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If you can't get to it by hand, you can also disable the ignition system by unplugging distributor and bypass the compressor relay, so the clutch stays engaged. Then crank the engine.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:39 AM
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It's necessary as compressor isn't getting oil to lube it till it can cool as oil is carried by refrigerant. No oil and engine speed would take out a dry one in no time and all work would be in vain!
The tuition for learning A/C the hard way is VERY expensive!
T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:41 AM
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Dang you are fast DS! That's a great idea! Love it - crank speed only should be just fine,
T
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mec4vic
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Jun 2, 2012, 6:48 AM
Post #12 of 32
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Re: A/C oil filling
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Last question for now, in adding the 4 oz to the compressor should I add it thru the suction side and the 2 oz thru the discharge?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 7:06 AM
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DS will beat me again no doubt - add thru suction/low side,
T
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mec4vic
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Jun 2, 2012, 2:50 PM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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Is pag 100 the same or equivalent to pag46?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 2, 2012, 4:07 PM
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Charts can be wrong but the one I use is pretty good. Use what it calls for only. Dye is fine and good for finding leaks later if needed but nothing else. There is one out there that is marketed to be universal called PolyMax and never touched it. Absolutely no sealers - some will destroy your chances of fixing a small problem if and likely wont work anyway,
T
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mec4vic
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Jun 3, 2012, 5:33 PM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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With this information you gave me, I looked at the compressor information and the compressor I installed has a model # SCROLL Part# CO3057 AC and says that uses oil PAG 56. Should I use what the compressor indicates or do I have to change the compressor with one that uses PAG 46?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 3, 2012, 5:59 PM
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That part number doesn't tell you anything. that car takes a Sanden TRS090 style. The seller assigns his own part number.
I don't think they even sell PAG 56.
They make 46, 100 and 150. Those are the only 3 choices.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 3, 2012, 6:01 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 3, 2012, 6:59 PM
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Re: A/C oil filling
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PDF on a huge maker of A/C refrigerants and oils.
http://www.technicalchemical.com/.../lubricantguide4.pdf
I can't work with part #s as much as what compressor this is - should be a Sanden or Denso product. All Honda's listed used PAG 46 that I could find.
Only OE vehicles I could find that used PAG 56 were Chrysler and Jeep and lists that the viscosity for replacement was 46? Could not find PAG 56 in a parts look up. I really don't know if that's just a tad thicker viscosity or has some other properties to it.
Speak for myself I'd consult the manufacturer of the compressor you have and ask why they want a non OE suggested oil that would have been OE,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 3, 2012, 7:03 PM
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Not surprised that Hammer posted before I was done reading the dang PDF. About all are as he listed -- 46, 100 or 150. Quick look for parts couldn't even find PAG 56,
Tom
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mec4vic
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Jun 16, 2012, 1:58 PM
Post #21 of 32
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I filled the system with oil, my friend did a deep vaccuum (29.92 psi)
and we charged the system obtaining a guage reading of low side 40 psi
and the high side 225 psi. He said the system is working in the sense
that the compressor is working properly, the line under the hood is
condensing well, but not the evaporator. The evaporator is dry and that
no cold air is felt inside the cabin. Why is that if everything is new?
Is it a bad expansion valve not doing its work?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 16, 2012, 2:08 PM
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Is the large line coming out of the evaporator good and cold?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mec4vic
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Jun 16, 2012, 2:53 PM
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If that is the line that goes to the succion side of the compressor that comes from the evaporator, then it's a yes.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 16, 2012, 3:03 PM
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What is your actual center vent temp with 40/240 pressures? If nothing but ambient air temp you may be fighting with the heater a bit. Normally 40 PSI of 134a will mean ~45F at the spot checked which may yield 55F center vent temp which isn't very cold after picking up some heat along the route from evap to vent. Real thermometers - no guessing,
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 16, 2012, 3:04 PM
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That means you have a temp control problem inside the car and the gas system is fine. I suspect yours uses a cable to the temperature door and it's not moving the blend door to full cold.
Make sure your cooling fans are working good too because your pressures are a bit high. You may have overcharged it a little.
Bring the RPMs up a little and see if that suction pressure drops way down.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 16, 2012, 3:07 PM)
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