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gilb
Novice
May 1, 2016, 6:13 PM
Post #1 of 14
(1960 views)
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92 Ford F150. 5.0. I purchased vehicle and AC did not work, tried charging and found big leak in the hose from compressor to drier and replaced with a good used one. Changed fittings from R12 to 134A. Bought new gauges from Harbor, tried charging, however leaked. Finally found that the gauges and hoses were no good from harbor, had an old Imperial set I bought from Mac, years ago. While checking for leaks I used a dye and thought my evaporator was leaking a little. Replaced, evacuated again and tried to charge, but then I remembered I forgot to put in the orfice tube in the evaporator, purchased new one and new drier, also put in a used compressor that had a charge on it, when removed. Hooked gauges and tried to charge, compressor comes on but stays on, with about a 1/4 can or so and pressure on low side reads 70, high side about 65. Not sure where to go from here.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 1, 2016, 6:52 PM
Post #2 of 14
(1956 views)
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What is the static pressure with the compressor not running on your current charge? What happened to the old compressor that was originally in it when you bought the vehicle?
If the static pressure is the same or close as the running pressure, compressor is broken or you have a complete blockage somewhere. Why install a used compressor? You get cheap on ac and it can get expensive later. If that compressor is full of metal, it will wreck everything that you did.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 1, 2016, 7:15 PM)
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gilb
Novice
May 1, 2016, 7:37 PM
Post #3 of 14
(1947 views)
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I bought the compressor because I had the virtually the same problem, but then realized I left the orfice tube out and thought that was the problem for sure. The reason for buying the used compressor is that the vehicle is rarely used and did not want to get another $220 into it or more. The static charge is the same or very close. Maybe I should try the old compressor back on the system?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 1, 2016, 7:46 PM
Post #4 of 14
(1945 views)
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You could try that. If you have a complete blockage, your high and low side pressures won't differ either, so keep that in mind.
Make sure you drain your old compressor and see what the oil looks like. If there is oil in it and it is grey or full of metal, don't use it.
Did you put any oil in the new accumulator or the compressor you stuck on there?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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gilb
Novice
May 1, 2016, 7:54 PM
Post #5 of 14
(1940 views)
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No I did not add oil, the used one I put on seem to have a lot in it and I did not put it in the drier.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 1, 2016, 8:14 PM
Post #6 of 14
(1936 views)
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When you pulled the old orifice tube out, was the screen full of crap?
The system has a recommended oil charge amount. The oil tends to migrate into different parts of the system. Normally if you replace a compressor, you drain and measure what is in the old one and then put the same in the new compressor (plus an ounce or two). You really don't know how much oil is in your system, so the system should be flushed out. That way you know how much oil to put into the system so it equals the manufacture's recommended oil amount. Flushing it out may also tell you if you have a complete blockage somewhere. Since your converting, you could switch to PAG after flushing.
It is possible that an orifice that isn't sealing around its edges due to not being installed properly can cause pressures to be equal, so you might want to double check. I understand you don't want to spend a bunch of money on an old truck, but ac systems are not as forgiving when you take short cuts.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 1, 2016, 8:16 PM)
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gilb
Novice
May 1, 2016, 8:46 PM
Post #7 of 14
(1928 views)
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The old orifice tube was about a 1/4 of it with crap. I will try as you suggested and flush and use the PAG oil and I will also double check to make sure I got the orifice tube in there correctly. Thanks much for your advice.
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gilb
Novice
May 10, 2016, 3:02 PM
Post #8 of 14
(1873 views)
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Well, I decided to purchase and new compressor. I flushed everything out again and no blockage. I put another new accumulator on and another new orifice tube, as the other new one broke when I removed it. The compressor came with oil, I also put an ounce in the accumulator and condenser, and in the new evaporator. I evacuated for two hours and the system held the vacuum, no problem. I tried to charge it and the compressor will not come on, the low side immediately went up to 60, then to 100, trying to add freon and the high side has no pressure. Not sure what to do now.
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gilb
Novice
May 10, 2016, 3:48 PM
Post #9 of 14
(1869 views)
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Two other possible problems. I noticed when evacuating that it pulled oil out of the system. I had read to put the oil in everything, then evacuate, so not sure if there is a problem there. The other is the gauges. My hoses have core depressors in them, but in order to do R134a, on my yellow hose I am using an adapter that I use for the vacuum pump, however there is no depressor in this, so maybe that would restrict me from getting the freon in it.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 10, 2016, 5:47 PM
Post #10 of 14
(1865 views)
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Have you tried a different set of gauges? Something isn't right with your hook ups or gauges.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 10, 2016, 11:19 PM
Post #11 of 14
(1858 views)
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As DS just said look at you gauges and these "adaptors" to pump and refrigerant source. Gauge sets differ and yellow hose or adaptor can either be size change or with a Schrader that needs to be depressed or nothing passes thru hose. Look for which end of the yellow hose is on gauge set and which goes to something with a Schrader/check valve. Dang stuff isn't all the same.
Test them out. Off car even feel for vacuum thru gauges to hoses when knobs turned and when attached that some refrigerant will spit out thru gauges which also purges lines of air.
Can't know what you have. I've had trouble with the yellow hose NOT pushing on a Schrader yet seals as the small push button didn't line up.
Plenty of room for your own gauges, hoses and adaptors to not work properly. Had three gauge sets, one with adaptor ends for 134a w ball valves two others just 134a of those one bought just for the hoses so cheap and tossed the manifold as junk from new and expected.
In short, test YOUR stuff before you touch the car/vehicle so you know it's working. Vacuum whole gauge set as needed if air in it is possible.
Gets worse: Not all "park" spots for hoses are sealed just a spot to put hoses and some are like plugs to vacuum out your gauge set. If you aren't you have spit of air being pushed into a system all the time if they zero out when not hooked up.
My own mess is a bird's nest of hoses and adaptors unique as I use costly gauges meant for all of R-12, R-22, R-134a so must be free of prior refrigerant if used or in doubt and use them all - hair pulling to be ready to go and know it.
Can't know each brand or types within brands! Robinaire (AKA is S/O) best, ID marginal, Quest totally stunk - useless IMO. There may be better or worse stuff by any of them?
T
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gilb
Novice
May 11, 2016, 8:12 PM
Post #12 of 14
(1845 views)
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Well it was the gauges, I rented a set from AutoZone and that was the whole problem. I ended up with 35 on the low side and 205 on the high side at 80 degrees. The inside I checked the center vent with a laser thermometer and was right around 30 degrees. Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it and glad it is all working great!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 12, 2016, 2:01 AM
Post #13 of 14
(1840 views)
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Eeek - rented gauges scare me all by itself! Do recheck your actual center vent temp as 30F if close is real it's too low and impossible with a real low pressure reading of 35 PSI.
Just in general and not possible for most people is to check YOUR equipment/tools with other known stuff as needed. Thermos, pressure anything and assorted test equipment nice to know another matches results for certain things this stuff included.
Ex: Try a whole new box (I have) of tire pressure gauges and see how many are 5PSI off or more! Shocking, Tom
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 12, 2016, 2:28 AM
Post #14 of 14
(1833 views)
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Make sure you have the fan set to high when you are reading the vent temp.
It sounds like you may have overcharged it a bit also. When you do a retrofit fit you should be charging it at about 80% of the original R12 capacity.
The original capacity was 44 ounces so you should have charged it with no more that 35 ounces which is just under 3 cans if using 12 ounce cans.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on May 12, 2016, 2:38 AM)
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