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Ac problem


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DjERA
User

Jul 9, 2009, 7:19 PM

Post #1 of 5 (1831 views)
Ac problem Sign In

I am trying to fill my car with some ac gas, apparently the gas does not go in

What do I have to do ?

The ac compressor has oil since I removed it and placed it back

help please im boiling in it


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jul 9, 2009, 8:48 PM

Post #2 of 5 (1828 views)
Re: Ac problem Sign In

Is the compressor engaging?

Do you actually know how much refrigerant it already has in it or if it is low at all?



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 10, 2009, 12:16 AM

Post #3 of 5 (1822 views)
Re: Ac problem Sign In

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/..._A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/


That pretty well sums up charging procedures,

T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jul 10, 2009, 12:22 AM

Post #4 of 5 (1817 views)
Re: Ac problem Sign In

Just to let you know, the links marked (here) are no longer active in those instructions



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 10, 2009, 12:34 AM

Post #5 of 5 (1812 views)
Re: Ac problem Sign In

Nacho has not updated the links. The concepts are all there still. He can be reached thru the link at the end of my post. Copy of instructions that mostly speak for them selves without links operating is...........

REFRIGERANT CHARGING PROCEDURE IN AUTOMOTIVE A/C SYSTEMS

We recommend reading this procedure completely before charging. You

may need information before charging you want to keep handy. Have this

procedure with you while charging. Although it can be done by a single

person, we recommend having a helper around.

This procedure outlines the steps to perform a complete charge. These

steps are not to be used to refill or make partial charges. Topping off

requires system parameters monitoring and knowledge, specially in

R134a-based system. Excessive gas will harm your system and will keep

it from cooling properly. MORE REFRIGERANT DOES NOT MEAN

COLDER TEMPERATURES

CHARGING IN GAS OR LIQUID - Please read step 10

Do not use the sight-glass (if so equipped) in R134a-based systems as if

were R-12 based.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

1) Vacuum pump

2) Gauges (R12 or R134a)

3) Service port adapter (as required in most R12-based systems) R134a

systems do not require adapters other than the couplers in your gauges in

the majority of applications

4) Refrigerant gas (R12 or R134a)

5) Optional: 2-3 ounces of specified oil.

**************

1. Make sure what is the required amount of gas. From factory, all systems

have a decal under the hood that give the data. If the decal is missing or you

are not sure, please specify make, model, and the type of refrigerant used and

whether your system is a factory or an aftermarket unit here. It is very important

to know if your system has oil. Oil starvation is the main reason of compressor

failure. Oil can be added to the system in two ways: with oil injectors or through

the low side port under vacuum. The procedure to add oil through vacuum is

described here. Some refrigerant charge and other useful specifications are

provided here.

2. Connect both blue and red gauge hoses to the system's service ports. The

discharge port (red hose) is located somewhere between the compressor and

expansion device, either before the condenser or after it. In R134a systems, the

port is the thicker of both, while in R12 systems is the thinner one. In some

aftermarket systems, the port is located in the back of the compressor. If your

ports are located in the compressor, the low side is marked by an "S" and the

high side by an "H". Port caps have an "L" for low or "H" for high.

3. Open both gauge valves. Connect the common hose (yellow one) to the

vacuum pump. Make sure both gauge needles are zeroed down. Needle is

adjusted by turning a fine screw inside the dial. You must remove the plastic

lens to do this.

4. Turn the pump on. You'll notice that both gauge readings begin to drop. The

blue gauge's needle will even dip into negative values. The desired low side

reading should be less than -25, while the high side will remain at 0.

5. After approximately 5 minutes, close both gauge valves. Turn the pump off,

and observe the needles. Any movement will indicate vacuum loss. The faster

the movement, the greater the loss. If after two minutes you don't see any

needle movement, open both valves, turn the pump on, and continue vacuum

for not less than 30 minutes. Close both valves then turn the pump off.

6. Get ready to charge. Have the necessary refrigerant amount handy. Cans

make charging easier and more precise unless you have a charging cylinder or

a precision scale.

7. Disconnect the yellow hose from the vacuum pump and connect it to the can

tap or charging cylinder valve. You can charge in two ways: liquid (can upside

down) or gas. Liquid charging is a lot faster but not recommended unless you

extreme care or have experience. Traditional (gas) charging is slower but safer.

8. Once you've decided, and with the can or container connected, unscrew the

top yellow hose connection (at the gauges) allowing refrigerant to escape for a

couple of seconds. This will purge the air out of the hoses so you make sure

that all you dispense is refrigerant. You can do this venting in liquid form so you

can see when a fine, steady stream of refrigerant escapes indicating that all the

air is gone from the hose. Don't breathe refrigerant and don't charge in a

flammable environment.

9. "Flood" the system with liquid refrigerant (can upside down) by opening the

red valve (high side) until it won't take anymore. Close the red valve. Jump the

low pressure cycling switch (if so equipped). If you don't know what this is or

where it is, ask for help here.

10. Turn the engine on. Turn the A/C into MAX on its third or higher blower

speed. You'll note that both gauge readings are now positive. The red gauge

should read between 100 and 150, while the blue gauge between 5 and 15. If

you are charging with cans, don't forget to purge air out the hose after hooking

a new can as described in step 8 above. Now, charge will continue through

the low (blue) side (see note below) . If you haven't jumpered any switch (you

don't have to), you'll notice the compressor cycling frequently on and off. That is

normal. The cycling will disappear as you dispense more refrigerant. The only

disadvantage of frequent compressor cycling is that charge will take longer.

Needles will move up and down with every cycle. This is normal. Do not jump

any switch unless you are absolutely certain!.

WARNING: DANGER

NEVER OPEN THE RED VALVE WHILE CHARGING. The red valve is to be

opened only during pre-charge, vacuum, or when a system is evacuated. Its

function is keeping an eye on the high side only. It must be closed at all times. If

you have any doubts, wait until you receive information. Severe injury or death

may occur. Remember: ALWAYS wear safety goggles. NEVER charge your

system in a closed environment.

GAS OR LIQUID CHARGING?

There are two ways to charge: gas (can or cylinder up), or liquid (can or cylinder

upside down). A compressor is designed to compress gas. Direct liquid charge

will harm the compressor if suction pressure is not controlled. Liquid charging is

faster, yet is riskier. Liquid charging should be made by professionals or under

supervision. Liquid charging can be done if the suction port is away from the

compressor (some compressors have the suction valve in its body).

Liquid charging can be done never exceeding a 50 PSI suction pressure. If you

can't control it, charge in gas form. In cooler weather, cans may freeze. You

may immerse them in water and shake them while charging.

11. Once about 2/3 of the charge has been dispensed into the system, spray

water in the condenser to optimize heat exchange and speed the process.

When you get the condenser wet, vent temperature is likely to raise. This is

normal. You'll also note pressure drop in both gauges.

12. Once the specified amount has been dispensed, close the blue valve. Let

the system run for a minute. Turn the A/C off and then the engine. Wait another

minute and disconnect the couplers from the service ports. Disconnect the low

side first. If you jumpered a switch, reconnect it too.

Optimum cooling performance is attained after 10 minutes of operation. Our

own acceptance criteria is at least 50°F in the center vent to the driver side at

idle after 10 minutes or less. Remember: cooling increases while the vehicle is

in motion.

VERY IMPORTANT

Due to the physical properties and chemical composition, R134a and R12

charging amounts are different. Never, if you are retrofitting, charge the

same or specified amount of R12 with R134a. If in doubt, please e-mail us

here. Do not use this procedure if you are using any other refrigerant. This

is just for R12 or R134a. Although procedures and parameters may be

similar, we do not use nor recommend alternative refrigerants.

HOW TO DETERMINE OPERATING PRESSURES

Every vehicle has its own operation parameters specification. Depending

on whether or not the vehicle has a factory or an aftermarket system, and

whether it was retrofitted or is still original, among others. There is no

established calculation to determine the exact operating pressures.

The low pressure (blue gauge) should be 35 or less at idle, regardless of

the type of gas. Only if you're running a dual system, the low pressure

may be between 45 and 50 at idle.

The high pressure, for starters, is directly related to ambient temperature:

the higher the temperature, the higher the higher the pressure.

Bear in mind that dispensing a complete charge without lowering the

pressures with water will result in higher readings. This is normal, and

that is why you should spray water in the condenser at 2/3rds of the

charge or once you have completed it. You'll note an immediate pressure

drop when you spray water in the condenser.

To obtain a ballpark high side value, multiply ambient temperature by 2.2

if you have an R12 system. If you have a factory R134a system, use 2.3. To

convert °C to °F, use this formula: °C X 1.8 + 32.

Remember: this is only a ballpark. If in doubt, we have factory charts to

help you determine the correct pressures. Please have your vehicle's

make, model, refrigerant type, and year and click here.

Factors like a an obstructed or very dirty radiator and condenser, weak or

inoperative fan clutch, weak or inoperative radiator fan(s), either electric

or mechanical, will make pressures go up and impair cooling, even in mild



days.

Tom Greenleaf








 
 
 






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