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stieber73
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Jan 11, 2009, 7:55 AM
Post #1 of 32
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I have a 1995 Monte Carlo 3.1 L, I am gonna flush my system, when done how much antifreeze and water should I add?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 11, 2009, 10:41 AM
Post #2 of 32
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Ok: When all done flushing know that there's some water left in the block so find the exact system capacity listed in owner's manual for the car and put full strenth EG (ethylene glycol) - I prefer non colored long life stuff - brand not necessarily the most important and put in EXACTLY 1/2 that capacity of pure product, all first, then finish with distilled water for the best possible result. Hence the answer is a 50/50 mix which equals -34F ---- fine for almost all places.
Car may take several cycles and be problematic to to purge out last air trapped in engine. Keep trying and see post above in this section on purging air out of cooling systems.
Good luck,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 11, 2009, 12:22 PM
Post #4 of 32
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This car may have a bleeder bolt at or real near thermostat to help with purging air,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 12, 2009, 12:07 AM
Post #6 of 32
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Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...;;page=unread#unread
That's still worth a re-read as I think you still have air.
Does this model use a pressure cap on the radiator or just the recovery tank?
*Was it proper before or is this the reason for working on it to begin with? If this is the same old problem tell me/us what the ambient temps are and if fans are coming on. Are you certain thermostat is installed properly? Some might fit if put in backwards but I don't think this one will. Thermostats are usually marked "toward radiator" or some marking for direction of flow.
If just the recovery tank this is more likely the problem.
If the recovery tank access only, take it around the block and run heater full blast. Allow warm ups and cool downs but still avoid genuine overheating/boiling.
Real tricky air may be helped by hoisting car up such that upper hose, thermostat is as high as possible. Allow to run till upper hose is warm, shut down, refill tank and repeat.
Note whether system builds up pressure from cold and how fast from cold when there should be none noted - simply squeeze upper hose as a test - using all care as it could be very hot and use glove as needed.
When "squeezable" and little to no pressure is thought in system you may notice bubbles going out to recovery tank - liquid should return when released but you aren't seeing that.
* This could have needed more that a thermostat and the "elusive and dreaded" problem can be a head gasket fault. Those are tricky to know especially in vehicles know to be difficult to purge air out of.
*********************
Again - don't allow overheats while doing this. The fluctuating gauge for now suggests it's not really boiling and real boiling you can hear. When shut off the engine should make normal sounds - not like a coffee percolator if anyone remembers those. An overheat if not quite full now is just stalling progress and risking more troubles.
Getting the air out can be a real hair puller and this may be the only issue so far. Any other info or history can help,
T
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stieber73
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Jan 12, 2009, 4:47 AM
Post #7 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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This model has a 16lb releasable pressure cap and a recovery tank and I put the thermostat in the same way it came out. I also found out that there is another bleeder screw by the water pump also, what is the safest way to purge that one without burning myself. Thank you for all your help
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...;;page=unread#unread That's still worth a re-read as I think you still have air. Does this model use a pressure cap on the radiator or just the recovery tank? *Was it proper before or is this the reason for working on it to begin with? If this is the same old problem tell me/us what the ambient temps are and if fans are coming on. Are you certain thermostat is installed properly? Some might fit if put in backwards but I don't think this one will. Thermostats are usually marked "toward radiator" or some marking for direction of flow. If just the recovery tank this is more likely the problem. If the recovery tank access only, take it around the block and run heater full blast. Allow warm ups and cool downs but still avoid genuine overheating/boiling. Real tricky air may be helped by hoisting car up such that upper hose, thermostat is as high as possible. Allow to run till upper hose is warm, shut down, refill tank and repeat. Note whether system builds up pressure from cold and how fast from cold when there should be none noted - simply squeeze upper hose as a test - using all care as it could be very hot and use glove as needed. When "squeezable" and little to no pressure is thought in system you may notice bubbles going out to recovery tank - liquid should return when released but you aren't seeing that. * This could have needed more that a thermostat and the "elusive and dreaded" problem can be a head gasket fault. Those are tricky to know especially in vehicles know to be difficult to purge air out of. ********************* Again - don't allow overheats while doing this. The fluctuating gauge for now suggests it's not really boiling and real boiling you can hear. When shut off the engine should make normal sounds - not like a coffee percolator if anyone remembers those. An overheat if not quite full now is just stalling progress and risking more troubles. Getting the air out can be a real hair puller and this may be the only issue so far. Any other info or history can help, T
(This post was edited by stieber73 on Jan 12, 2009, 7:15 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 12, 2009, 7:16 AM
Post #8 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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"This model has a 16lb releasable pressure cap and a recovery tank and I put the thermostat in the same way it came out. " 'end of quote' *************** A history of why you replaced the thermostat to begin with would help! Putting t-stat back they way it was doesn't tell me it wasn't wrong to begin with. Why did you replace it anyway?
This lever release cap may be wrong for the car! Check that it stated for "closed system" on the cap or look for a second rubber seal unsprung in top of cap or it by style would defeat the recovery tank and possibly spit coolant out at the cap OR blow coolant TO the recovery tank but not allow it to draw back when engine cools.
If in doubt - get the proper cap!
You mentioned it can get some heat now. If so you should be close to full but by it quitting and gauge not stable still suggests air/vapor is in the system,
T
Alone - I doubt that's causing the issues mentioned especially is cold/cooler out now.
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stieber73
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Jan 12, 2009, 7:37 AM
Post #9 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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I thought the thermostat was bad because It began to overheat on me, the car had been sitting since January of 2008. But glad to say it, I finally got heat again and a stable temp needle, I found the other purging screw and got all the air out. I feel like Dora the explorer, "I did it, I did it hooray!! Lol
Thanks again for all your help and I am glad I found this forum site and to tell everyone how important it is to purge all the air out and how hard and annoying it can be.
Eric S. from Salem Indiana
(This post was edited by stieber73 on Jan 12, 2009, 7:39 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 12, 2009, 7:58 AM
Post #10 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Yea! Sounds like success. The infamous "getting the air out" was in fact the issue. I was worried about a head gasket issue but this engine didn't have a history leading to that just yet.
Sorry about the long read of a "locked" post on purging air out of cooling systems. It is a pill on some cars and there ISN'T a 1-2-3-4 step instruction checklist that fits every situation or vehicle - wish there was.
The basics are always the same. Air rises to the top. Trouble is it gets caught by a closed thermostat and with vehicles with lower hood profiles the radiators get designed low, sideways and squished in to fit the body of the car.
Even when stabil as now - do recheck the level now just at the recovery tank for a few days of use. It may still find some air to displace even though working fine for now so keep it at marked "full" level and hope you can forget it for a while.
Good luck. Stay warm!
T
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 12, 2009, 10:51 AM
Post #12 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Okay, now I let the car cool down, went to start, and the coolant low light came on, but I do still have heat and the reservoir is full. Then the light went off, is this normal? And I am not leaking any antifreeze anywhere, I checked everywhere and even put a full sheet of cardboard under the car to see if any leaks.
T
Ok - I hope and probably is. What I think is happening now is that sensor for "low coolant" is on the radiator itself and it has pushed coolant out to reservior and can't draw any back so it's full but radiator isn't! That could be the radiator cap's fault if it doesn't have the upper seal for a "closed" system as mentioned.
There hasn't been an "open" system car since perhaps the early 70s or late 60s TMK. I know they make a "lever vent" cap for closed systems but it must be just right or it could be the problem.
 That exact one WON'T WORK!
 This one would work - note the second seal.
 Note what your radiator should look like. That larger rubber seal maintains integrity (seal) from top of neck to the recovery tank thru a smaller rubber hose. Air goes out when it expands and when cools it contracts creating a very slight vacuum and draws back liquid with that dime size flapper shown in second pic. Basics - air can go out but if tight only liquid can return - self purging concept but any VIOLATION/LEAKS will stop the show so you need to know the radiator itself is properly filled - again!
***********
Simple concept but causes hair loss as you are finding out. Clean the surfaces if needed. For the most part it's the larger upper seal that connects and seals the radiator to the recovery tank. If seal leaks, small hose leaks (may just not hold vacuum(minimal) or any clamp or flaw in the tank could be a trouble spot.
System should build up pressure from cold- note COLD when cap is on and not touched it will expand and make pressure. When the pressure exceeds the rating or resistance against the spring it will allow that liquid to go to the recovery tank. If no pressure builds up then system has a leak, was already warm so didn't expand much, or cap isn't holding tight. Unfortunately you have to wait for cool downs or you'll never witness the pressure build up. Opening system to look early defeats the pressure for the while and won't come back quickly.
Of all this just know there's a lot of importance in the quality and correct cap for the car. It doesn't give up it's clues quickly as said as you wait for warm up and cool down cycles. Driving around the block can speed it up with turns, stops and start up to slosh coolant around.
BTW - I don't like the safety pressure release even though the idea is all well intended it can be the problem. Instead, try just a careful (hot items/hose) squeeze of upper hose and your call on if and how much pressure is in a system BEFORE opening a radator cap. When there's no pressure it shouldn't blow up at you as they absolutely can and cause real bodily harm! I rely on you for good judgment. Wait till all is cold if in doubt with that.
Keep at it. This is still within normal bullcrap so far and not indicative of a nasty problem,
T
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stieber73
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Jan 12, 2009, 11:15 AM
Post #13 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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That is the kind of cap that is on there, should I get a regular cap? I have one that is in one of my other cars that is not running and it does not have one of those pressure valve on it. Will that one work? It is a 15lb instead of a 16lbs that is on there now.
Okay, now I let the car cool down, went to start, and the coolant low light came on, but I do still have heat and the reservoir is full. Then the light went off, is this normal? And I am not leaking any antifreeze anywhere, I checked everywhere and even put a full sheet of cardboard under the car to see if any leaks.
T
Ok - I hope and probably is. What I think is happening now is that sensor for "low coolant" is on the radiator itself and it has pushed coolant out to reservior and can't draw any back so it's full but radiator isn't! That could be the radiator cap's fault if it doesn't have the upper seal for a "closed" system as mentioned.
There hasn't been an "open" system car since perhaps the early 70s or late 60s TMK. I know they make a "lever vent" cap for closed systems but it must be just right or it could be the problem.
That exact one WON'T WORK!
This one would work - note the second seal.
Note what your radiator should look like. That larger rubber seal maintains integrity (seal) from top of neck to the recovery tank thru a smaller rubber hose. Air goes out when it expands and when cools it contracts creating a very slight vacuum and draws back liquid with that dime size flapper shown in second pic. Basics - air can go out but if tight only liquid can return - self purging concept but any VIOLATION/LEAKS will stop the show so you need to know the radiator itself is properly filled - again!
***********
Simple concept but causes hair loss as you are finding out. Clean the surfaces if needed. For the most part it's the larger upper seal that connects and seals the radiator to the recovery tank. If seal leaks, small hose leaks (may just not hold vacuum(minimal) or any clamp or flaw in the tank could be a trouble spot.
System should build up pressure from cold- note COLD when cap is on and not touched it will expand and make pressure. When the pressure exceeds the rating or resistance against the spring it will allow that liquid to go to the recovery tank. If no pressure builds up then system has a leak, was already warm so didn't expand much, or cap isn't holding tight. Unfortunately you have to wait for cool downs or you'll never witness the pressure build up. Opening system to look early defeats the pressure for the while and won't come back quickly.
Of all this just know there's a lot of importance in the quality and correct cap for the car. It doesn't give up it's clues quickly as said as you wait for warm up and cool down cycles. Driving around the block can speed it up with turns, stops and start up to slosh coolant around.
BTW - I don't like the safety pressure release even though the idea is all well intended it can be the problem. Instead, try just a careful (hot items/hose) squeeze of upper hose and your call on if and how much pressure is in a system BEFORE opening a radator cap. When there's no pressure it shouldn't blow up at you as they absolutely can and cause real bodily harm! I rely on you for good judgment. Wait till all is cold if in doubt with that.
Keep at it. This is still within normal bullcrap so far and not indicative of a nasty problem,
T
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 12, 2009, 11:31 AM
Post #14 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Your quote: That is the kind of cap that is on there, should I get a regular cap? I have one that is in one of my other cars that is not running and it does not have one of those pressure valve on it. Will that one work? It is a 15lb instead of a 16lbs that is on there now.
*************** Another GM cap should be fine from the same style that it was OE. 15-16 is only a marginal difference. I choose the 15s where I am as that is only really a # that raises the boiling point of coolant 3 degrees F per lb of pressure - not needed for my own purposes that much and that little wouldn't matter for most. Clean the used cap - literally take in to a sink and clean it up with a tooth brush and it's ok to smear silicone grease on rubber seals, little dime flapper underside it, the stops that make you push to turn to remove and under and outside of smaller rubber seal. Chapstick would suffice if you don't have the proper grease and don't use regular greases! Don't use that chapstick again for lips either ! Gotta say - If you clean stuff in a houshold sink clean up the mess. Anti-freeze and junk associated is toxic and can cause domestic problems like when I use the dishwasher to clean hubcaps! Long story! May be off line for a while but back later. Make sure you don't allow a hard overheat if at all possible. Carry some extra pre-mixed coolant with you for a while if in question, T
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stieber73
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Jan 12, 2009, 6:11 PM
Post #15 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Again I have no heat, and no water is coming out of the purging screws. I tried a new cap, and the resivoir tank is extreamly full and the gauge is going way high.
(This post was edited by stieber73 on Jan 12, 2009, 6:12 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 12, 2009, 6:33 PM
Post #16 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Arggh! It's time for a pressure tester and a check for combustion gasses in the cooling system. The dreaded head gasket issue could be in the cards and diagnosis it tricky and you DON'T want to be wrong as it is a big job. Even get a second opinion before going there.
Guess - right now coolant is showing full at rad and the recovery tank but we know it isn't right---- right? Might read low at radiator which still could mean it simply refuses to draw back coolant from the tank. Little hose, clamps and tank itself might have some problem - let's hope now it's that easy.
Still - rad cap alone could be the fault but this is happening quickly for that alone - possible but a tad too quick,
T
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stieber73
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Jan 13, 2009, 3:19 PM
Post #17 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Okay Tom, I have noticed when I was driving today that it is taking along time to heat up the car, also I hear a noise like a chain rattling at the location of the water pump, could that be the reason why the water is not circulating? Should I try that? I know a water pump for my car is about $30 and not hard to replace, I already looked it up. lol
Thanks,
Eric
(This post was edited by stieber73 on Jan 13, 2009, 3:26 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 13, 2009, 3:34 PM
Post #18 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Wow! Thread got long in a hurry! If you are up to a water pump you are correct that they are cheap and fairly easy. Take belt off now and you can feel if it's the noise or not most of the time. Water pump can also be an unseen air leak! Rare but sometimes the seal will not hold the slightest vacuum but can hold pressure - don't even try to figure out why but they can and if so air enters there without evidence which is possibly prohibiting return coolant from recovery tank. RARE!
Pretty sure the hardest part of a water pump job is cleaning the gasket surface on the timing cover. Just 5 (?) 8mm bolts hold it on after belt and pulley which just pulls/falls off when belt is off.
You can save your coolant if you catch it in a clean container, run thru something like window screen to remove any larger particles if needed and don't scrape gasket over the pan - DO PUT THE PAN OUT OF HARMS WAY - ANIMALS CAN AND WILL TRY TO DRINK IT and YES - IT'S POISONOUS.
While belt if off check the other pulleys for noises as long as you hear something and intend on keeping at this do them then as needed,
T
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stieber73
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Jan 14, 2009, 11:53 AM
Post #20 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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I saw this Question and answer on a website, will this work or is it untrue?
Q.What effect will an air pocket in the heating system have and how do you remove one if you have one?
Take off the rad cap and run car 20 minutes . As coolant circulates, the air in system will be bled off. You may need to add some coolant.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jan 14, 2009, 4:16 PM
Post #21 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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That's good plain common sense and will work every time on a 1956 De Soto! Just kidding - it should be that simple and some are and some are a nightmare to bleed out. There just isn't a "one way" fits all anymore. Some vehicles have rear heaters and all kinds of odd ways of laying out components.
The low profile of hood lines has almost completely deleted putting in a tall radiator with the cap top center ----- that's where so called hood ornament started - they were decorated radiator caps! At one time ALL radiators were top to bottom flow and could even work on convection. Now most are side flow to lower them so the have to force the coolant along. No room for radiator caps on radiator is now common too which really bites it! Pressure is all the way to to recovery tank and when there's a leak you don't get the proper action or see that air is finally out that easily.
When head gaskets fail in a certain way the pressure of combustion can enter the cooling system - more common than ever now with sideways engines and poor/uneven airflow across exterior engine. Front gaskets get cooked and one way the show up is to blow combustion gasses into the coolant which act just like air as it doesn't transfer heat and while doing so blows coolant out and overboard if there's enough of it - even before an actual overheat.
When one refuses to purge after a few tries you do need to suspect head gasket problems. They make test strips to detect exhaust/combustion gasses in cooling system to help diagnose those.
Frequently when that is the problem the system will pressure up fast. Like in one minute from cold system is a full pressure and that's indicates a problem. Also - when a system is already warmed and a pressure cap can be removed safely those problems will re pressure up the system again right away when it's not really from just expansion of heat but air/gasses being added.
It gets worse too! Sometimes water pumps just don't have the volume to push along air to purge without revving up engine - but you have to catch that when thermostat is open.
It's basic but can be a timely process to simply fill a cooling system. Without knowing it's full you just can't diagnose what else might be wrong if anything is wrong,
T
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stieber73
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Jan 15, 2009, 10:59 AM
Post #22 of 32
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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It was a cold one today -4 and no heat in the car. Brrr!!
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stieber73
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Jan 15, 2009, 1:07 PM
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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I am dreading that the car is a head gasket problem, I smell non antifreeze fumes in the radiator and the reservoir.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jan 15, 2009, 3:41 PM
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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Arggh! Let's make sure as best we can before coming to that dreaded conclusion.
Test for exhaust/combustion gasses entering cooling system making vapor (same effect as air) are:
Test strips available for gasses that will change color or fancier equipment for that is out there.
You can know this by feeling for pressure too early which with experience is easier of course so I'll try to explain that out.
Fill as best you can while cold.
Start engine with pressure cap off and feel for upper hose to warm up and gauge to read something like a normal temp. In essence the expansion of the coolant is about done so shut engine off a minute and put pressure cap back on. Now start up and feel the upper rad hose as compared to zero pressure when you had it open or had just put it back on. It shouldn't build up diddle anytime quick for pressure but if it does or continues this barfing out to the recovery tank that's a lousy sign or a positive looking reaction for the head gasket doing this. Some engines can get combustion pressures or exhaust pressure in thru intake manifold gasketing also - hard to know for sure in some which is the culprit.
Notes: The engine isn't adding pressure by some pump. It's merely the expansion of coolant that makes for pressure. Example - if cooling system cold is 14 quarts is might be 15 quarts when fully warmed up - that much and you can see that in the recovery tanks as marked FULL cold and FULL hot. They are both right at the proper temps.
The effect of all this is that the coolant won't boil for 3 extra degrees F. per lb of pressure. Average 15lb pressure caps then are allowing even plain water not to boil at up to 257F - really! Those #s are pretty close to reality.
WARNING!! WHEN YOU RELEASE PRESSURE ON COOLANT/WATER THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN OVER THE BOILING POINT WITHOUT PRESSURE IT CAN AND WILL FLASH BOIL!!!! MANY HAVE SEEN THE GEISERS COME OUT OF RADIATORS AND OF COURSE THAT IS VERY, VERY HOT AND CAN SERIOULSY HURT OR KILL YOU WITH BURNS. TAKE ALL CAUTIONS AGAINST THAT - IT'S ONLY A CAR!
So - with the feel for pressures at the wrong times and too quickly or ability to repeat pressuring up along with testing for combustion fumes in rad or recover tank you are about as close to the diagnosis of a gasket failure as I know. Evidence might be seen on a spark plug to further be sure - may not with some.
NoteII: These head gasket can leak any which way they seal. They don't always put coolant into oil, or burn it so you see it out the tailpipe. Combustion pressures are way up there and can beat out the pressure cap and add the vapor.
When several attempts to purge out air, frequent barfing into recovery tank, lack of heat and overheat persists I'll call it diagnosed.
From there you don't know if more damage than just gasketing is the trouble. It's expensive and fussy work - heads should be sent out for inspection and planing as needed or declared NG.
That would not be a DIY friendly job and certainly seek second opinion(s) before a job like that IMO.
If it comes down to that I suggest going for it. New oil change, tune-up, hoses or other items while apart especially if the car is to be kept.
I tend to think this is the bad news too. Hope not but be sure as you can,
T
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Jan 15, 2009, 3:42 PM)
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stieber73
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Jan 15, 2009, 5:40 PM
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Re: Re:95 Monte Carlo 3.1 - Antifreeze
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The thing is that when I leave the cap off, I am assuming you are talking about the radiator cap when you refer to the pressure cap. Am I right? I have taken the radiator cap off and started it, after a few minutes the coolant starts pouring out of there.
Arggh! Let's make sure as best we can before coming to that dreaded conclusion.
Test for exhaust/combustion gasses entering cooling system making vapor (same effect as air) are:
Test strips available for gasses that will change color or fancier equipment for that is out there.
You can know this by feeling for pressure too early which with experience is easier of course so I'll try to explain that out.
Fill as best you can while cold.
Start engine with pressure cap off and feel for upper hose to warm up and gauge to read something like a normal temp. In essence the expansion of the coolant is about done so shut engine off a minute and put pressure cap back on. Now start up and feel the upper rad hose as compared to zero pressure when you had it open or had just put it back on. It shouldn't build up diddle anytime quick for pressure but if it does or continues this barfing out to the recovery tank that's a lousy sign or a positive looking reaction for the head gasket doing this. Some engines can get combustion pressures or exhaust pressure in thru intake manifold gasketing also - hard to know for sure in some which is the culprit.
Notes: The engine isn't adding pressure by some pump. It's merely the expansion of coolant that makes for pressure. Example - if cooling system cold is 14 quarts is might be 15 quarts when fully warmed up - that much and you can see that in the recovery tanks as marked FULL cold and FULL hot. They are both right at the proper temps.
The effect of all this is that the coolant won't boil for 3 extra degrees F. per lb of pressure. Average 15lb pressure caps then are allowing even plain water not to boil at up to 257F - really! Those #s are pretty close to reality.
WARNING!! WHEN YOU RELEASE PRESSURE ON COOLANT/WATER THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN OVER THE BOILING POINT WITHOUT PRESSURE IT CAN AND WILL FLASH BOIL!!!! MANY HAVE SEEN THE GEISERS COME OUT OF RADIATORS AND OF COURSE THAT IS VERY, VERY HOT AND CAN SERIOULSY HURT OR KILL YOU WITH BURNS. TAKE ALL CAUTIONS AGAINST THAT - IT'S ONLY A CAR!
So - with the feel for pressures at the wrong times and too quickly or ability to repeat pressuring up along with testing for combustion fumes in rad or recover tank you are about as close to the diagnosis of a gasket failure as I know. Evidence might be seen on a spark plug to further be sure - may not with some.
NoteII: These head gasket can leak any which way they seal. They don't always put coolant into oil, or burn it so you see it out the tailpipe. Combustion pressures are way up there and can beat out the pressure cap and add the vapor.
When several attempts to purge out air, frequent barfing into recovery tank, lack of heat and overheat persists I'll call it diagnosed.
From there you don't know if more damage than just gasketing is the trouble. It's expensive and fussy work - heads should be sent out for inspection and planing as needed or declared NG.
That would not be a DIY friendly job and certainly seek second opinion(s) before a job like that IMO.
If it comes down to that I suggest going for it. New oil change, tune-up, hoses or other items while apart especially if the car is to be kept.
I tend to think this is the bad news too. Hope not but be sure as you can,
T
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multiple warning lights
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
Brake Seals Bulging
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