|
|
iXod
New User
Jul 10, 2019, 8:33 PM
Post #1 of 2
(1187 views)
|
|
Flushing the evap
|
Sign In
|
|
2004 Mazda 3 R134a system wouldn't cool. Gauges show low side going into vacuum. Obvious txv plugged. Suspected grenaded compressor so examined a little oil from the system and it's dark. No particles but that doesn't give me any hope.
Will replace all major components: comp, cond, dryer, valve, and flush all lines and evap.
My question is about flushing the evap. It uses a block type txv which bolts to the evap deep in the dash. How do you flush it? Can't flush with txv installed (which would give convenient lines under the hood to connect flush equipment). Without txv connected, there are just 2 holes in the air box that lead to the evap:
https://imgur.com/MSOEgDW
How do I flush the evap without contaminating the whole passenger compartment?
Thanks for your help.
iX
(This post was edited by iXod on Jul 10, 2019, 8:51 PM)
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 11, 2019, 2:45 AM
Post #2 of 2
(1153 views)
|
|
Re: Flushing the evap
|
Sign In
|
|
It'd pretty much impossible to flush an evaporator without leaving all kinds of flushing solvent in the core.
I never attempt it and have never had a problem. Most of your issues will be in the condenser. You can examine the valve and if it's not loaded with crap, you should be good on the evap.
What I have found in the past is the only time junk gets into the valve, it's usually desiccant from a broken dryer and then the pellets are too large to get through it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 