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greasy one
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:18 PM
Post #1 of 14
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Been awhile since on here, lucky I guess . Can I get advice on cycling my compressor on? 1993 Lesabre. I know the advice and agree with a pro helping out. Around 10 yrs ago a guy upgraded me but the job didn't last and the next yr, another guy, did a full evac. and charge which worked until now. I think he must have used a sealer/ snake oil?  . I can't get it to take the refrigerant because, although the compressor was cycling, at least on and off, it now won't. I am pretty sure I waited too long and just hooking up the connection pushed me over the low pressure line. The same guy is having health problems but he said to short the low pressure switch, which didn't work. Any advice? the compressor spins freely, by hand. PS... I have a $30 bottle, still full and new, as well as another connector and what was a 8 yr old can that, again, wouldn't work and was still full until I added to a guys truck that, also, didnt have a running compressor, but took the can.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:22 PM
Post #2 of 14
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Re: My Buick is hot
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Assuming you even find the correct port, how will you know when the system is full?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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greasy one
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:27 PM
Post #3 of 14
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Re: My Buick is hot
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The 2 connectors have gauges and they say to add till the red line is reached.
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Hammer Time
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:34 PM
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Re: My Buick is hot
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That's what I figured you would say.
Listen to me clearly. There is NO WAY to know how much refrigerant is in a system through pressures. The nonsense they feed you with those death kits is just that.......... NONSENSE. There are a million different situations that change pressures.
The ONLY way to correctly charge a system is to completely evacuate the system and then hold it under a 29" vacuum for at least 30 minutes. Then charge it with an exact weighed amount of charge.
This is why we tell people that AC repair is not DIY job. All you can do is more damage to the system and possibly get hurt.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:38 PM
Post #5 of 14
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Re: My Buick is hot
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You didn't mentioned which model you have, but if the compressor cycles enough the PCM will store a code 66 and disable the compressor. You have to clear codes or disconnect the battery to get it working again. I agree that you should have a shop that specializes in air conditioning check it out. Those DIY kits are garbage.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jul 2, 2016, 3:39 PM)
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greasy one
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Jul 2, 2016, 8:56 PM
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Code 66 you say, I will try that.Thanks
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 2, 2016, 10:09 PM
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Pressures do NOT tell a system is charged properly nor a particular pressure can know one if properly filled by weight is all you can really do.
If a kit or gauge says it full it's full alight - of bullcrap and called "Death Kits."
Not diy friendly stuff. You really can be terribly hurt or worse.
Too many reason's to think systems need more refrigerant, many don't and cause a problem you didn't have,
Buyers beware on that death kit stuff - you don't know what you are adding that really can be all wrong for the specific vehicle or incompatible with a prior use of a Death Kit!
T
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 5:52 AM
Post #9 of 14
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Re: My Buick is hot
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I see where it says clear thru PCM for code 66 and as for auto temp control, My car is a Limited model and has a control panel that only has an Auto setting for AC. It will not stay on Auto and jumps to the Economy setting when low on refrigerant and no running compressor. This is what happened 8-9 yrs ago and its been great since. No repairs except sealer and I am not even sure on that. It was retrofitted the year before but that only lasted a year.
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Hammer Time
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Jul 4, 2016, 6:42 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Here are the code clearing instructions although simply disconnecting the battery will work also.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 10:43 AM
Post #11 of 14
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Clearing that code did work by unhooking battery. The death can was emptied in like 5 seconds. Thanks a bunch. I learned a lot too but still very little. The worthless? pressure reading was almost into red from what I noticed. It happened so quickly as I was rotating the can and think the needle was bouncing around. I was simultaneously thinking that the can seemed empty, in the 5 seconds,which was puzzling because the demon writing, on the can, said 5-15 minutes. I know enough now that, although the system seems fine, I will have my buddy re-evacuate and redue with the oil and a weighed charge Thanks for all the help, again
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Hammer Time
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Jul 4, 2016, 10:47 AM
Post #12 of 14
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When the can is held upright it charges gas slowly. When it's held upside down it charges liquid very quickly which can damage your compressor. Not knowing that is yet another reason you shouldn't be doing this.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 10:54 AM
Post #13 of 14
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I learned that in the last few days about not wanting to have the compressor compressing a liquid. The hell can said, rotate it, and I was just excited the compressor was spinning again.
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Discretesignals
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Jul 5, 2016, 4:49 PM
Post #14 of 14
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I'm sure his buddy will enjoy the sealer contaminating his ac machine...lol
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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