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debm
Novice
Jun 5, 2011, 2:50 PM
Post #1 of 15
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Hello I had a new compressor installed in my car a few days ago. The problem is, the car seems to be losing power, but doesn't die completely. Also it doesn't seem to be as cold as it should be. Any suggestions? Ford Focus 2004 I think 2.0 88000 miles
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jun 5, 2011, 2:57 PM
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Re: New Compressor
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Nobody ever thinks a system is as cold as it should be. Get a digital thermometer and put it in the center vent, blower on high, air recirculating, windows up and let it idle. If it pulls into the mid 50s, you are good. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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debm
Novice
Jun 5, 2011, 3:02 PM
Post #3 of 15
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Re: New Compressor
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Nobody ever thinks a system is as cold as it should be. Get a digital thermometer and put it in the center vent, blower on high, air recirculating, windows up and let it idle. If it pulls into the mid 50s, you are good. Especially in 95 degree weather lol. Thanks I'll try that since I am curious as to how cold it is
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Hammer Time
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Jun 5, 2011, 3:04 PM
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Note the outside temp when you do this. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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debm
Novice
Jun 5, 2011, 3:10 PM
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ok thanks, will do. What's the reason the car feels like it's losing power?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 5, 2011, 3:22 PM
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Don't have enough information to answer that. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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debm
Novice
Jun 6, 2011, 3:59 PM
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Now I know for sure my suspicions were right. Today there is no cold air coming from the A/C. Just hot air. I bought the digital thermometer but I don't need it now, it's not working.
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Hammer Time
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Jun 6, 2011, 4:09 PM
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If this gradually got worse, then you might have a serious leak but it needs to be check with gauges and leak checked with a halogen detector. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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debm
Novice
Jun 6, 2011, 8:54 PM
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thank you. will call the shop in the morning and make those suggestions.
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debm
Novice
Jun 7, 2011, 7:33 PM
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The verdict is....The compressor was leaking oil out the back. I knew there was something wrong.
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debm
Novice
Jun 8, 2011, 3:53 PM
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2nd compressor put in and still blowing hot air. Any ideas?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 8, 2011, 3:59 PM
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Have it repaired by someone that knows something about A/C. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 9, 2011, 1:42 AM
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Have to agree on that. This car IMO should put out 40's at vents no problem idle speed even in hot and humid. None designed for putting out 30's. There will be sample exemptions but this is a diverter door issue with little doubt as Hammer mentioned, T
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debm
Novice
Jun 9, 2011, 3:39 AM
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what is a divertor door issue and how can I tell if that is what it is?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 9, 2011, 5:35 AM
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Just replying to question above: Diverter doors: They are flaps in the ductwork for blending temperature mix and others for diverting where the airflow will go. Either can be actuated by either a vacuum diaphragm or electric actuator and with either can fail in various ways. Default if controls of them is frequently to defog/defrost mode but the door itself may cause problems. Nasty hard on most to discern that but know that if heater core is blended with A/C the heater will win hands down. The bigger issue is knowing that one has failed and why. Vacuum operated doors can fail by lack of vacuum or wrong signal sent same as electrical doors/flaps all meant to live the life of the car/vehicle but don't always. With vacuum the common problem is source interrupted. With electric one's the gear strips. Some nasty to get at some easy. Just know there is ductwork going on in vehicles and those parts and controls thereof can wear out or break, T (MVAC) certified.............. might mean insane??
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