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gingavitis
New User
Sep 16, 2010, 3:56 PM
Post #1 of 4
(2159 views)
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Overheating 86 Towncar
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Hi all, this is my first posting here. I searched for a little more information but being female and all, I only know so much about my car. Don't get me wrong though, I know an awful lot more than most. My car has many many issues, and I would not doubt that some may be contributing to the other. This is what I can tell you:
1986 Lincoln Towncar Signature Series, 5.0. Mileage, unknown. It never worked when I bought it, and it only reads up to five digits anyways, which does read somewhere in the 15,xxx's, which I am sure it is probably more like close to 2xx,xxx's. I drive like a grandma, so I am good to my car and keeping them running longer than most.
The most recent work we had done on my car was because it would not pass emissions. We tore off the intake plentum, cleaned, took off valve covers to replace gaskets, (suspected the place of oil leak, turned out we were wrong), replaced sensors and most, possibly all hoses for coolant. Some sensors were not even connected, and several hoses in the back of the plentum were blocked shut with rust. (This explained why we could never get the system flushed when we tried for hours after we replaced the water pump about six months ago, same time we also replaced the thermostat.) Also replaced all vacuum lines as they were brittle and breaking at the touch.
After a week's work on the car, sometimes staying up all night to do so, we put it back together. We tried flushing the coolant system again but still came back dirty, just not as dirty as before. We suspected there was leftover residue in the not-so-old lines that had been replaced months ago, and it rumbled happier than I had heard it in a long time. Seemed to be going through more gas the first day, but it sounded so very happy. Passed emissions, results were about half all across the board from what they were before.
I was checking fluid levels all week to be certain everything was tightened down. Coolant levels were low, the next day it was dry. Also when I popped the hood after parking it seemed extremely hot under there, much hotter than normal (for about a year I have had to unhook the battery every time I park for several hours because there is something draining it, not sure what yet). Then finally one day, I had to make a stop before home, and on the way home I stalled out from overheating. My ride home was usually 20 minutes, with stop it was about 30-40. Hoses seem clamped well, but as time has gone on, I have water at all times, and fill before I go anywhere. It is always empty. Now I can only drive for about 15 minutes before it stalls out and won't go anywhere again for several hours of cool-down, unless I only want to move for only two minutes.
Very long story, I apologize. We suspect that part of the problem may be the thermostat is blocked open from some rust that was broken loose, therefore overheating, also suspect could be water pump has gone bad from the overheating? How do we tell? When I first drive, the first few movements through first and second gear it sounds like my belts are squealing, but the belts are not damaged and not getting worse, and as tight as they can go, and straight of course. Is that possibly the water pump squealing? Once I move into third gear it seems to get much quieter but still present, and doesn't quite scream like a belt does.
If you have any ideas on what else it could be, please let me know. I am having a real hard time right now, not to mention hard to come up with cash to fix the car, so any thoughts are a big help!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 16, 2010, 4:41 PM
Post #2 of 4
(2154 views)
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Re: Overheating 86 Towncar
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If need be, flush cooling system again! Pressure check cooling system. Look for vent hole on bottom of water pump - it should be dry. You need a mirror to see that.
There is a metal heater hose that goes under upper intake that is known to rust out. new is going to be trick but can be found.
These cars eat fan clutches. Just look at fan when just shut down and it should stop almost right away. If you toss that make sure it's a thermostatic one.
Radiator may need to go. If you are filling it all the time you need to find out where it's going. When you catch it low take a look inside for how crusty radiator tubes might be or clotted with rust. Never exceed 50% antifreeze as pure product doesn't work well at heat transfer.
Trickle drain on battery: Just take the bulb OUT of hood light, trunk light and glove box. Hood and trunk are "mercury" switches and can be bumped and stay on and you don't see it. That and if parked on an incline they come on and you don't know it! Also, overhead reading lamps and the ones in the back will stay on if messed with and you or a passenger forgets to turn them off!
Belt noise: Not big bucks but you almost have to get either Dayco's or Goodyear's "Quiet" belts Goodyear's is called "Gatorback" and they will stretch faster and need periodic adjustment. Don't tighten them so much as the kills bearing of components! Just tighten right at the point where you can't spin alternator fins by hand and leave it there.
Oil leaks can be the low oil sensor on side of oil pan or aggravated by a poor PCV system. The grommet and valve is way down back of engine and tricky to even get your hands on.
Could be blowby from a now older engine. Not dead so easy as they are tough. Trick, while at idle try like a near spent cigaretty with dipstick part pulled out. Smoke should go DOWN the dipstick tube as a good indication PCV system is still overwhelming any blowby.
BTW - OE thermostat was 192F Don't try to lower that to solve cooling issues. 195F is more common and close enough. If you went to 160F or even 180F it's not helping - trust me!
T
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gingavitis
New User
Sep 16, 2010, 5:14 PM
Post #3 of 4
(2145 views)
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Re: Overheating 86 Towncar
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Yes! That stupid metal hose was rusted in a spot, and it was hard to find anywhere. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Dealer said it would cost $120 new, we ended up creating one with fittings put together from Lowe's, about $12 bucks. It is tight and does the job. We have tried flushing it again after it started stalling with no change.
I will have to check the radiator, good point. For fear of dumping antifreeze all over town and killing the wildlife, have chosen not to use antifreeze until problem is solved, just using water for now. Yes I know it can rust it up so much quicker, but I don't want to contribute to a dirty world.
As for the battery, when it first started we did check the bulbs, although the trunk light was not coming on while closed, we pulled it anyways, and it still had the problem. I checked the hood light at night and it was not on while hood was closed. If it's any help, it started after I replaced the battery. I took it back to check for problem, it wasn't the battery. It's not anything being left on that is the problem; it happens every time.
I'm really not certain it is the belts squealing, the guys think it might be the water pump going bad? Do they do that when they go bad? Sad thing is, belts and water pump are not that old. Belts are newer.
We have since found the oil leak issue, the grommet is pretty much gone. You can see it just by crawling under, it is hanging in there. The PCV valve... that was quite interesting. The major job we did of removing the plentum; upon getting to the PCV valve, we noticed it was only attached to one hose, and it was so dirty we couldn't even blow through it. Very puzzling to know it was not attached, has been replaced along with several of the other valves. You think that's probably what caused the oil leak to start?
Thank you!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 16, 2010, 6:35 PM
Post #4 of 4
(2144 views)
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Re: Overheating 86 Towncar
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There's a lot here so let's take bits and pieces..........
PCV system: The idea to to create a slight vacuum in crankcase areas and burn some misty oily vapors while at it. When the crankcase has pressure instead of slight vacuum it will blow out weaker gaskets. This engine requires taking off that upper intake to do then simple valve cover gaskets as you found out. What stinks is those gasket do better if you can warm up engine and re torque them a couple times - not much more than screwdriver tight but you can't run the engine with that upper manifold off!
Ok for short term to use just water till leak is located. If you think water pump is making the noise take the belts off and spin the components by hand. No wobble allowed for the pump or the clutch. Well - the slightest bit. Pressure test system - you'll find the leak. Dye the water or use some antifreeze to see traces of the color.
Hey - anything holding coolant could leak. These are not generally head gasket eater engines but who knows? The well hidden freeze plugs could be the issue!
Another weak spot for electrical trouble is the main plug to the alternator. Look for heat damage there to that plug. They sell just the pigtail ends to those to solder in a new one.
If you look at the alternator, note how little % of it touches the belt. They will easily give you a quick squeal right after start up and are near periodic to snug up a bit but as said don't overdo it!
You have age and miles on this car. They do well but that takes a toll. Watch your expenditures as you may come across something that is big trouble at this point and decide what to do if that happens.
Side note: I own three of these right now and have had several. Here I lost the battle to rust. One I'm parting out real soon as it's in the way now. That's an '89 last of that series of Town Cars. Tons was the same for years on these and also Crown Vics and the Grand Marquis for many silly parts now getting hard to get OE stuff,
T
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