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leaking heater pipe


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bubbly
User

Apr 21, 2016, 7:00 AM

Post #1 of 12 (2482 views)
leaking heater pipe Sign In

Vehicle info:
2002, dodge, stratus, 1.4 engine

While driving notice steam coming from under the hood. Inspection found one of the heater pipes to be leaking when under pressure. The pipes go from rubber tube connections on the fire wall to I believe the radiator. In that a lot of work and time will be needed to replace the pipes I was wondering if I could simply cut and replace the leaking pipe with a longer length of rubber tube?

Bob


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 21, 2016, 8:17 AM

Post #2 of 12 (2477 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

Save yourself a lot of time and aggravation and replace the pipe assembly. It is probably rotted out from the inside and you'll end up with more leaks later on. Also make sure that you flush out the cooling system. Those pipes usually go bad due to lack of changing your coolant.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 21, 2016, 8:18 AM)


bubbly
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Apr 22, 2016, 11:15 AM

Post #3 of 12 (2454 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

My reason for asking if it were possible to cut out the leaking section of pipe and connect it to the pipe on the firewall using a longer piece of rubber tube was that to rep[lace the two pipes would cost $175 for the pipes and take 6 hours (according to my local Dodge dealer).


Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 22, 2016, 11:49 AM

Post #4 of 12 (2449 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

Not sure but bet you'll find this metal pipe isn't just a stretch of pipe but also connects unseen to another or a small one maybe on intake - didn't look. That's why it's a pest to do whole thing but 6 hours seems way out of line.
If you really see one section to splice hose over you just might buy some time or find just messing with it that it springs other leaks not yet leaking as the pipe is weak - no question on that.
I gotta suggest do it right as already said by DS or you'll never know when it will leak again or how fast,


T



Discretesignals
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Apr 22, 2016, 3:09 PM

Post #5 of 12 (2438 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

It's possible, but that is your call.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


bubbly
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Apr 23, 2016, 5:02 AM

Post #6 of 12 (2426 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

I can appreciate the comments indicating that if the pipe has corroded replacing the leaking section will probably only solve the problem until the next leak occurs. That being said what if I replace the entire pipe with a length of rubber tube? I am assuming that I could fish the tube from the fire wall to where the pipe connects in the front.

Bob


Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 23, 2016, 7:34 AM

Post #7 of 12 (2423 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

Couple issue to clear up first: Is this a 2.4 engine NOT a 1.4 not found by me? Metal heater hose may look exactly like this........



Ya - that sucker is $120 or so wholesale and if under manifold would take some time plus you would do the molded heater hose ends on to heater core and where they end up on engine appears like (5) of those hoses.
If one section you could get to without much trouble and cut that out leaving hopefully good metal to use just a piece of hose over the leaking area you probably could buy some time.


Know this: Any hose going directly to heater core in/outlets requires extra special care NOT to harm heater core or you'll really regret it if that breaks. IDK - core may not be any better than this metal hose - unknown. So yourself a real favor if you do just whatever area is needed if removing an existing hose (molded) plain hose may not be possible to creative work to make that fit and work properly. WATCH OUT FOR REMOVING HOSE FROM FRAIL METAL LIKE HEATER CORE OR THIS METAL HOSE SO DO SO BY SOMETHING LIKE AN EXACTO KNIFE AND GENTLY PEEL THE OLD HOSE OFF! Do NOT just pull on this stuff!!!!


The metal part that gave out is probably steel of some sort? IDK so test it with a magnet for a clue. Now what to cut that with?


If possible a tubing cutter that can make the full circle no problem or guess you are left to something like a hacksaw blade? If magnetic I'd hold a magnet while you are cutting to catch the filings.


Now, if you get to this note the tubing doesn't have nubs made into metal to really hold hose on preventing it under temp + pressure from just flying off.


I call them worm gear type hose clamps are the most common. In those situations you would want plenty of overlap and probably double clamps in opposite directions as those clams do NOT apply uniform pressure.


Sounds really complicated to even fake it like you want to but at risks of surprises for not getting even a good fake to fix this.


One more warning: Near all heater hoses are different sizes on purpose. The smaller is the inlet and larger is the outlet which is on purpose so any extra water pump pressure with pressure the system has by radiator pressure cap normally doesn't stress out the heater core - got it? You can blow a heater core on some and some even put a restriction inside hose to slow it down to prevent that and noise of water rushing.


Sorry for the novel but you need to know that even a good alternative fix can go all wrong if not understood and well thought out.


Yes it can work if problem is isolated and probably is NOT and rest of the metal may very well be just as weak? Really can't know that for sure.


One more: Pressure test final fix if you do this with a pressure tester to the rating of pressure cap which should be the maximum for the system to know it hold and if it's going to fail let it be then not on the road and stuck by surprise + no doubt an overheat you don't want.


Can't decide for you what to do just do the best possible if you do just the bad section and don't make it tons worse by adding a heater core to this problem,


T



Discretesignals
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Apr 23, 2016, 1:41 PM

Post #8 of 12 (2415 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

If your willing to take a chance of overheating and damaging the engine, which will cost a lot more to fix than a heater pipe replacement, it's your call on performing you're rigged up band-aid fix. I know our shop wouldn't touch it unless it was done right. Don't understand why you were quoted such a high labor to replace the pipe assembly. Book time is 1.3 hr to replace the heater pipe and 0.9hr for the inlet tube. Maybe you should get another quote at an independent well known shop.

Another thing to consider is that the pipe is coming apart from the inside out and those pieces are going right into your heater core and radiator tubes. Doesn't take much to plug those up and cause overheating.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 23, 2016, 2:11 PM)


bubbly
User

Apr 24, 2016, 5:19 AM

Post #9 of 12 (2398 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

Sorry for the wrong info. The engine is 2.4.

Thanks for all the information. Clearly there is a lot of effort needed to correct the problem to say nothing of possible complications.


I am leaning toward having the pipes replaced. Can a regular shop or do this or do I need to go to a special shop?

Bob


bubbly
User

Apr 24, 2016, 5:22 AM

Post #10 of 12 (2397 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

I thought that the labor time from the local Dodge dealership of 6 hours at $150 per hour was high. The labor time you found seems more reasonable.

Bob


bubbly
User

Apr 24, 2016, 5:29 AM

Post #11 of 12 (2395 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

The pipe you show are the same as the ones I found online. The cost for Mopar pipes is around $150 whereas I found Dorman pipes (#626512) for $75 online.

Bob


Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 24, 2016, 6:09 AM

Post #12 of 12 (2393 views)
Re: leaking heater pipe Sign In

By all means replacing the pipe(s) is the best fix. It may take hoses that connect that can't be reused, clamps, new antifreeze to add up costs.


DS said in one sentence up top to do yourself a favor and replace it stands true. The snag is the labor time and rate now IMO. That's too high. Later (look back) DS posted the listed time allowed for this job. An independent shop can do this as well as a dealer, perhaps better perhaps not? It's the tech and shop policy you are really dealing with.
By now you know what's been said and risks. It always was YOUR decision how to deal with it now with some ideas on why one way is better than another,


T







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