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greasy one
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:37 PM
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My Buick was wobbling
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I spent half the day fighting a tie rod change, for details and a laugh ask for details. I have a 93 Lasabre. I just have a question to axe. Do I unscrew the inner tie rod to remove it and the problem outer part or figure how to remove the frozen outer?
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Discretesignals
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Jul 2, 2016, 3:42 PM
Post #2 of 27
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Re: My Buick was wobbling
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You can't remove the inner tie rod with the outer tie rod installed. You'll need to figure out how to get the outer off. If you can't get the outer tie rod off, you'll have to cut it off and replace the inner.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 2, 2016, 10:55 PM
Post #3 of 27
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Re: My Buick was wobbling
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Just asking DS - can you still buy just the adjustment/threaded sleeve still new and easily? T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2016, 5:02 AM
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Thanks - brain Phart - locking nut - duh. I've never owned alignment machines so if only to center wheels they went out for the full printout and other adjustment if needed with anything that could alter it,
T
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greasy one
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Jul 3, 2016, 8:27 AM
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Re: My Buick was wobbling
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The outer tie rod is cut off ABOVE the piece of metal thingy that holds the outer tie rod. I used a sawzall and messed up. The castle nut area, UNDER the mounting thingy should have been cut. The slug of metal is still trapped. My question is about the freed up inner rod. I, easily, turned it 4 revolutions and wonder if that is the way to go or do I need to mess with the inner boot to free something.
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 8:39 AM
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You need to cut the strap the holds the rack boot to the rack housing and then remove the little clamp at the other end of the boot. You still need to remove the nut, so you can slide the little clamp and rubber boot off. Once you get that out, you need the inner tie rod remover and installer tool. Autozone may have one you can borrow. When you reinstall the rack boot be sure the equalizer tube is installed. Use a black zip tie in place of the strap that you cut off.
There are probably tons of tube videos showing how to remove and install inner tie rods with the special tool.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jul 3, 2016, 8:49 AM)
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greasy one
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Jul 3, 2016, 9:05 AM
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Oh no what a mess, but thanks
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 9:08 AM
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You'll get it. Replacing the inner tie rod isn't that difficult. There is no torque specs I can find, so it has to be tight. There may be torque specs in the box the new inner tie rod comes in, maybe. I'd rather do the inner tie rod than the fan/light I installed in my bathroom yesterday...hahaha.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jul 3, 2016, 9:09 AM)
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greasy one
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Jul 3, 2016, 9:35 AM
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I am not replacing the inner and it looks like if I can keep the inner from turning, then the outer should turn off the inner tie rod. The problem is I need vicegrips to hold the inner and the outer jam nut is rusty and jammed good. Do I really need to mess with inner?
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Hammer Time
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Jul 3, 2016, 9:36 AM
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Of course you have to remove the boot. The end is a ball in a socket and the rod will just rotate in the socket forever. You need to reach the inner nut.
It looks like you may have already destroyed the knuckle cutting off the other end.
You DO realize that is a tapered shaft wedged into the hole and has to be either pressed or jarred loose.
edit: I see you just posted ahead of me while I was typing. You will need more than vice grips to hold that. A pipe wrench would work better.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jul 3, 2016, 9:38 AM)
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greasy one
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Jul 3, 2016, 11:38 AM
Post #12 of 27
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Well for some reason, I have never owned vicegrips, but do now and some c-clamps, and sawzall blades. Will find a pipe wrench. It sounds like maybe I can just turn out that outer,maybe. The new plug in the spindle wants to come out, it is real close now.
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Hammer Time
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Jul 3, 2016, 11:42 AM
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That piece is never coming out of the knuckle as long as the nut is on the other side. You never should have hacked it up. You only made it harder now.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 11:45 AM
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Ok...I thought he was meaning he couldn't remove the outer tie rod from the inner. More than likely the knuckle bore is going to be wallowed out. You'll need to replace the knuckle if that is the case. You could blow the nut off with a cutting torch and then pop the rest of the ball joint shaft out.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:06 PM
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OMG - That would have just come off with a normal pickle fork with nut removed. Cotter pin stuck and all nut would have come off with air or heated with air.
Just made this a project never mind anything else,
T
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:12 PM
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In the beginning was the shaft spinning while you were trying to take the nut off.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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greasy one
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:18 PM
Post #17 of 27
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Heck ya the castle nut was just spinning, I am just way out of practice and cut in the wrong place. I think that spindle hole may be wallowed out also but hope it was the tie rod.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:19 PM
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I'm not there. They can do that and just force pickle fork for pressure and I call it "scare" it out with high impact wrench. If hole isn't any good and might not be think about it then?
It's done no matter what just too bad IMO,
T
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:21 PM
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Well you might be in luck. If you can pop the nut off, then you can wack the rest of the shaft up through the knuckle bore. As long as the shaft itself wasn't spinning, the bore might be fine.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:32 PM
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Always hard to say but my torches would split that nut without heating arm. Glow nut on other side and open it, it would fall off.
Then a punch smaller than the threads to they don't widen punch it out. If no luck whack the side of the arm them pop right out.
See crap like that you can't even recognize there's nut at all from rust and still get those out,
T
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Discretesignals
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Jul 3, 2016, 12:37 PM
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I've ran into a couple of cheapy chinese tie rod ends where the cheap castle nut threads pulled while tightening it. Then the nut wouldn't come back off and just spun on the shaft. With all the rust, it could of eatin the nut threads up also. If the nut and the shaft were both spinning trying to take the tie rod off, then it is going to need a knuckle for sure.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jul 3, 2016, 12:39 PM)
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 10:27 AM
Post #22 of 27
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Back inside at laptop I was scaring my recalcitrant outer tie rod off.
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 10:55 AM
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greasy one
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Jul 4, 2016, 4:31 PM
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Well no ones biting. 
I went Medieval on her but got lucky and even went for a highway cruise. The spindle was fine and the car is not clicking/ clacking anymore and seems to be rolling straight. I need to get a oil change and grease that new tie rod end thou. Thanks for the help. It made me realize what was up with the inner tie rod.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 4, 2016, 9:37 PM
Post #25 of 27
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OK - Looks like this worked out. Now put the "Saw's All" away and get a good grease gun and never fight with this crap again. Good ones aren't cheap with pistol grip vs lever action takes three hands or buy fitting end that can't fall off for about $40 bucks.
Don't over grease either but eventually blobs of excess come out. Use that on parts to rust proof them. Doesn't look like this this has seen a grease job in a decade. Try 4 times a year on everything if the car as a whole is safe enough to keep and use. Fitting can be replaced BTW and if one wont take grease at all it's probably worn flush inside and that part NG anymore.
Just look back at your floor jack - it's so rusty I don't trust that much so careful with these things.
Next job if this was such a mess is to check every single joint and suspension part that could be in trouble. I've seen rust tons worse than that and also have seen whole components pull right off whole from where mounted.
Again, check all the other things that could be this bad and a total safety concern either rust or worn out from lack of service,
T
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