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1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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jessethebuilder
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Jul 26, 2006, 10:46 PM
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1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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I have a 1984 Ford F150 with an inline 6 and a 4 speed (3 w/ OD i guess). The other day I found I could not shift into 1st, while the truck was running. I did not notice any significant change in the feel or pressure of the clutch pedal. When I start the truck in 1st (or any gear including R) with the clutch in, I notice that the truck rolls just a little. I think the clutch is not engageing. I am hoping that this behavior is typical of some standard problem or may a few problems. Any advice would be greatly apprciated.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 26, 2006, 11:14 PM
Post #2 of 10
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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Hi, There are two common problem that are contradictory from your post.?? If the clutch is worn out it slips and will soon be all neutral feeling. The hard shifting is more a sign that the clutch is not disengaging which could be a linkage adjustment or rotted out parts -- pressure plate - the clutch disc itself and you wouldn't see that without taking it out. Good news is that they are not that hard to do, or expensive. I'm confused by the rolling you mentioned but here's some tests you can do: Feel for the free play and it should be about 1-2 inches before you feel resistance. Another test: Put the trans in 2nd gear and hold brakes and releasing clutch should stall the engine AYOR. That tests the power of connection between engine and trans which is the clutch. Problems could be the clutch itself or linkage to it or both which I can't tell yet. Hit back if needed and I'll even try to explain how to replace the things and tell me/us what tools you have available to you, T
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jessethebuilder
Novice
Jul 26, 2006, 11:27 PM
Post #3 of 10
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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thank you tom. here is a little more clarification: I drive the truck around as it is. I can start it in first and powershift between 2 and 3 easily enough. When I start the truck in gear, the transmission feels like it is slightly engaged. Like there is a weak power connection between the engine and the transmission i guess. Here's the thing: it's like the clutch doesnt do anything. I press the pedal, and it is stiff (w/ a few inches of play at the top), but i can't get it into gear any better than if the clutch wasn't pressed at all: i can't shift into gear from a stop, but i can get to 2nd or 3rd when i'm rolling, but i can do that w/o the clutch.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 27, 2006, 12:16 AM
Post #4 of 10
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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This is a disengagement problem and that is either the linkage or rusty parts. I wish I could tell you whether you have a cable, metal linkage or hydraulic and you would need to tell me as I can't guess what the truck used and it could be different within a model year?? Reverse is the only gear not syncronized. It will give you that gear zip if either you are too fast from neautral or if clutch doesn't fully disengage. Try not to let it do that -- not good for trans. That will also strain the sychros for other gears and you wouldn't notice it so much while moving along. You said 3" of free play in the pedal which is too much and may not have the travel to fully disengage the clutch which could cause all this. It's older but this can be fixed before you have trans troubles added to it. Q. What kind of linkage to the clutch? Getting late for me but I'll be back, T
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jessethebuilder
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Jul 27, 2006, 9:35 AM
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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thanks again tom, the clutch is hydraulic. i'm not sure if there is 3" of play in the clutch. more like 2". There doesn't seem to be any more play in the clutch than when it shifted properly, but maybe there is and I just didnt' notice.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 27, 2006, 11:07 AM
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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Ok -- There is a master and slave cylinder that uses DOT3 brake fluid which should be up to level and smaller than the master cylinder for the brakes. It should say DOT3 but if it says something else and you need to add use what it says which is usually on the cap to it. If low by much chase its lines and look for leaks. If youv'e just driven in rain it will wash away as it's not oil. They can leak at the master or the slave or a flex hose. They can also not work right and not leak - arggh, hit back and I'll think of some way to test that out rather than replacing parts that don't need it. Next -- watch it move (if no leaks) and release the clutch. Two person job to watch and note at about how many inches of clutch travel before you see something happening. Let me know -- we are getting there T
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jessethebuilder
Novice
Jul 27, 2006, 11:30 AM
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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thanks so much tom. you say watch "it" move. you mean the clutch fluid in the line, or is there a part movement i'm looking for?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 27, 2006, 11:38 AM
Post #8 of 10
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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I'm not certain but you would like to see if possible movement at the clutch. Can't remember if there's a dust shield that would just come off with a couple bolts on those or not. Bear with me as it's tough to describe what I can't see and the memory is good but challenged, T
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jessethebuilder
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Jul 27, 2006, 2:41 PM
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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Ok, here is what I can see: no visible leaks and good constant fluid level. when the clutch pedal is pressed, the slave cylinder pulls an arm, which is a long flat kind of thing that is connected to the slave cylinder on one end, and disapears into the bell housing at the other. it moves as soon as the pedal is depressed. there may be 3" (looks more like 2" though, depending on how i measure) of play at the top of the pedal. is there away to adjust that, and would that account for my problem?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 27, 2006, 4:03 PM
Post #10 of 10
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Re: 1984 Ford F150 clutch...I think
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I think the 3" free play is too much. You must have some or will burn out a new clutch in no time. It may be adjustable or the dang clutch disc is all waffled up with corrosion and hard to tell as said without a look at it which means you have to do all but a clutch job to get there. If you have to do that replace the disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Having the flywheel machined is nice but they work without doing that. Talk to me if you have to go that far I can save you a monster headach, T
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