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1994 chevy s10


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grnrch
Novice

Aug 11, 2015, 11:54 AM

Post #1 of 12 (3298 views)
1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Truck is stuck in 4lo it was my father in laws and it has had very little 4 wheel drive use. truck has auto transmission and manual shift transfer case much help needed.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Aug 11, 2015, 1:06 PM

Post #2 of 12 (3291 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

We (the site) have a trans guy who may be by if you wait a bit but need to know if this is shifter on the floor, lever and stuck in position there or back where you want it but stayed in "Lo" on you?


I plain own a slightly newer full size GM shifter on floor and will go look when it quits raining where it moves if it could stick from underside or what. I never use the "lo" now on second GM truck 4X4 except to know it works now and then?


T



grnrch
Novice

Aug 11, 2015, 1:37 PM

Post #3 of 12 (3279 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

You can move the transfer shift lever with no problem but it does not change anything.
Thanks Richard


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Aug 11, 2015, 1:50 PM

Post #4 of 12 (3273 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

OK - Just looked at my own for first time took notice! Mine is a round rod with threaded studs at ends and nuts. Hard to see totally without it raised some but probably adjusts there as well? I can see how that could catch some rust and or plain break and when found you'd see what you need to fix. New part or fix what's there?


Thank you for this issue. Now I will (next time) go out and spray grease the heck out of mine so it doesn't break or stick.


BTW - if like the full size that I just looked at I would think if totally broken and part hanging down that for now you could probably put it in place in 2WD Hi probably BY HAND all you really need right now till you can get any parts to fix it. Yes - you can see it from underside IMO more likely to have a problem there than inside on floor?


T



grnrch
Novice

Aug 11, 2015, 2:16 PM

Post #5 of 12 (3268 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Thanks for the info Tom I will try and get it up in the air and try and see what's going on not much room on a s10.
Richard


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Aug 11, 2015, 3:59 PM

Post #6 of 12 (3263 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Have had the chassis of this as I think "S-10" frame didn't change much for ages since introduction in 1982 I think thru probably 1999? Guess on my part.


I just have a sixth sense they didn't change the world on this one idea for the floor mounted shifter. I can see how if that broke and could that it would stay where it broke and still work there leaving a part swinging.


What I saw on the larger if broken seemed like it could break off at either end of that rod and would be a hardware only type fix.


Hey - that was a quick glance on my own, plenty of room that I could tell or enough but I also have a wild collection of tools to get to tight places most people wouldn't.


Didn't even fix a lot a huge vehicles nor things too heavy as I worked alone which limits things.


Good news for you on this is trucks and this is seem to have new parts available if needed ages longer than most cars.


I can see where lack of periodic use of this would be a reason that it was sticky or rusted but never moved for ages and broke from just testing it out.


Again - if broken at a rod like I'd bet it would with engine off, a rear wheel hoisted turn by hand for the short time to fix better.


No doubt you'd like to find a nice pic of total layout of it on the web someplace. A Chev or GMC dealer should have it still on a parts view screen in nothing else.


Perhaps with a helper and you looking you'll see just where the problem is then what to chase down to fix it. Unknown till you can look right at it for now,


T



grnrch
Novice

Aug 11, 2015, 4:13 PM

Post #7 of 12 (3259 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Tom I did change the actuator last year and I forgot to mention there seems to trannie fluid in the vac lines.
Richard


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Aug 11, 2015, 4:25 PM

Post #8 of 12 (3257 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Oh help me Richard. Said this wasn't a specialty but around it some not a lot. Yes vacuum was used to actuate front wheels but didn't thing selection of what mode/from shifter. Had one vacuum back was the S-10, 1984 - actuator only. Thought they quit that by 1994?
What oil are you finding in vacuum line? Gear oil or ATF? They quit vacuum to the trans for an item too by then IMO so must be for actuator. That alone I doubt is more than for engaging front wheels so a separate issue.


If you unplugged that vacuum line you can't get front wheels to work but still get 4X4 Lo. Mine did but was 2WD Lo.


You have more to check but still think first reason if shifter inside moves but can't change out of low to anything else that's first then quickly find out what the story is with oil in vacuum line and fix that right away too.


If this thing isn't a rust bucket they do have some good features about them. Tough frame and sharp turning for a real 4X4 meaning not this crap for handling with AWD w FWD as primary stuff on sports vehicles. Work grade 4X4 stuff,


T



grnrch
Novice

Aug 11, 2015, 4:37 PM

Post #9 of 12 (3254 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

I had some work done on this a few years ago after my father in law died and the private mechanic I used said it was the most rusted thing he had ever worked on underneath.
Richard


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Aug 11, 2015, 5:02 PM

Post #10 of 12 (3252 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Hey - Sorry for your loss #1.


The truck and rust. I'm in MA w heavily salted roads for snow and ice in Winter. Already fixing or fixed up to 1/4" frame parts rusted right thru, control arms, wild things can rust that render a vehicle unfixable so do pay attention when to give up. The trucks seem all worse than the cars but nothing exempt.


I plow snow is the only reason I would own anything 4X4. Duh - you are out dunked in salts doing that and it doesn't just wash away with car washing - trust me.


By the time housings of differentials cases, frames, control arms, floor boards get too bad you are in real trouble. Oddly and I don't know why that '84 had a solid frame and body was junk but close to just a yard machine was what I wanted out of it.


Perhaps get this running and move on if a tech said worst rust ever seen it wont heal itself.


More and trouble things on this for rust is you should have all brake, fuel and evaporator lines carefully checked. Probably antilock brakes on this which is more brake line to rust with sudden loss of brakes with no warning many times! Gas tanks will rust too at seam or where fuel pump is up higher and the fuel neck itself. This stuff is relatively cheap but a pest as you make up lines one by one they don't sell them pre-bent to fit so can be very time consuming.


Glad you said rust was an issue. Think hard how far you want to go with this truck in general because of it.


Side note on rust and fuel anything in particular. If lines, tank are not known good do not park it indoors! Any could but a fuel leak in a closed in space isn't funny at all and wildly dangerous!


So - get this "stuck in low" issue out of the way and think hard about this vehicle in general if you want a constant fight you can't win or what to do,


T



grnrch
Novice

Aug 12, 2015, 8:55 AM

Post #11 of 12 (3235 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

Tom you are right that is where i'am with this thing, fuel tank is leaking somewhere, spring support brackets are about rusted off plus a few other things, I believe it needs to go if I can get it out of 4 lo.
Richard


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Aug 12, 2015, 9:19 AM

Post #12 of 12 (3233 views)
Re: 1994 chevy s10 Sign In

I'm with you. Tank leaking is common both seams and even the retaining ring of fuel pump/gauge can rust out. My own S-10 leaked but not unless full and managed almost 7 years as a work thing not really concerned if even street usable at that time.


Straps are available generically. Any with rust issues neither come apart by bolts or straps will really break. That you can't let happen!


Mine was a customer's vehicle needing so much stuff in general it was junk. I paid for the paper to allow them to give it to me as frame was oddly quite good - not much else was at all.


Difference: I have a ton of tools to deal with rusted crap to a point when it's just too much time if all free to be worth it.


That shifter I could make that rod for example if it's that at all or fix it. I'm betting on that. If rod is there and it moves then it's on to whether it is really turning into the case or broken there? That you would have to see when there.


I agree with you that this now with the known rust mentioned if not stuff you can do 100% will be unreasonable as a dependable vehicle cost wise for YOU.


Don't be surprised if it isn't worth some bucks as a whole parts vehicle if 4X4 components are working and frame is good someone would love to have it.


Try to make the smart choice. If you spent a ton and still rusted in the wrong spots it would really be worth much more than just running and shifting to prove 4X4 works ups its value IMO.


Good luck with what you decide to do with the whole thing in general. Again, I expect the shift problem will not be that hard and may not cost much at all?


T







 
 
 






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