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78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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mahoho
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May 25, 2010, 2:44 PM
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78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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I have a chevy C10 with a 350 in it, I have recenlty replaced the torque converter to a B&M 23-2500 and put a 650 holly carb on it. When i put ut in drive or reverse it pops had and loud.( it shakes the truck) it started when i put in the converter but only did it when i hit 2nd, now i does it all the time. Please help, i just got it to where i could put it in drive and it not die and now this. thanks and it has a 350T trans.
(This post was edited by mahoho on May 25, 2010, 2:46 PM)
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Sidom
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May 25, 2010, 7:26 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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Double check your work........Make sure the converter bolts are tight.... Also might want to check the u-joints while you're under there.......
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mahoho
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May 25, 2010, 9:57 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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I was thinking maybe the U joints or the ring and pinion gears, but im sure what to check as far as the U joints
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nickwarner
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May 26, 2010, 11:54 AM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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How good a shape are your motor and transmission mounts?
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mahoho
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May 26, 2010, 2:39 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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not really sure, but i think they are a couple of years old
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Sidom
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May 26, 2010, 10:16 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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As far as the u-joints go. Block the frt wheels, jack up the back & put in neutral. Grab the driveline at each joint an just twist it, there shouldn't be any kind of movement in the joint at all......Any play whatsoever & the joint is bad.........
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mahoho
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Jul 1, 2010, 5:01 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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I did not jack it up, but i just grabed it and wiggled it. it moves at the rear joints back and forth from the trans side, the rear axle side does not move. or is it suppose to move there, if not what do i have to do. buy a new drive shaft?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 2, 2010, 3:00 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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If you can see a U-joint move it's really trashed. Not the world to put a new one in. IF, (don't know what years quit doing this) this uses a center bearing in the drive shaft those were a trouble spot. It should be rubber with some motion but no torque free play,
T
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Hammer Time
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Jul 2, 2010, 3:33 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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It sounds like your just seeing the play in the ring and pinion of the differential.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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mahoho
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Jul 2, 2010, 4:53 PM
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well i replace it anyway, ran good at first, then i floored it. bad idea now you can hear somthing spining or moving but its not catching. but the u joint does not move at all now (not to you all where wrong or anything, but already had the parts and only took like 10 mins)
(This post was edited by mahoho on Jul 2, 2010, 4:55 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2010, 8:35 AM
Post #11 of 15
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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A bad u-joint had to go anyway so no loss for that. Now if this is two wheel drive can you put it in N with rear hoisted and use stands please, turn the driveshaft by hand and make the wheels move? If not it's time to open up the cover (catch the messy gear oil) and take a look while turning it for obvious troubles.
There's a pinion smaller gear from the driveshaft, a larger gear that it turn and in turn, turns the axles.
Just once I found splines of an axle sheared smooth so that vehicle just sat there till that was fixed. Luck to be the axle and not the receiving part in differential for that one - not a GM but same idea,
T
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mahoho
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Jul 3, 2010, 2:57 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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Ok it the cover off the gears and the gear on the right looks shot, its jagged and half is warn off and not warn down the left side of each tooth is warn, and the pinion gear is a little warn but nothing like that one. this is getting fun, i paid 1500 for truck and have spent about 1500 just fixing it to get it running. wish i could post a pic to show you.
(This post was edited by mahoho on Jul 3, 2010, 3:01 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 3, 2010, 4:28 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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Well - you've found your trouble. Now it's what's the best way to fix it. I'm not looking at it but it seems to need more than one thing in there which could add up.
I think I'd be calling salvage yards for a whole unit. You may have a tag that was on one of the bolts to cover or on the unit to identify it's exact type. Others could fit but speedo could be wrong or the dang U-joint you just did would have to fit some other assembly's yoke. IDK for sure but the salvage yards would. I'd look at the one used if you go that way too. Should be clean and gear surfaces smooth as glass. You plain won't know if it's perfect until it's in.
Check grease seals at the brake backing plate and the yoke too if going used. The thing should be an exact fit. The salvage yards would know what years will match and you might be surprised that it might have been used right on up another many, many years.
If you aim to fix the one you have price out all the parts you know are NG. May need to go for bearings and seals as well.
Ask how much for what to help decide which way you want to go,
T
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mahoho
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Jul 3, 2010, 5:25 PM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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Thanks, its going to be a while before i can fix that, but hopefully that will be the last thing.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jul 4, 2010, 2:09 AM
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Re: 78 Chevy C10 pops when driving
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Just Googled around a bit - OMG - there are parts everywhere for this! Mostly "Hot Roding" places to alter it or chrome covers but sets were out there too. You'll need to determine how much is bad. May just be gears that you see.
I've never been into the racing thing but have seen entire assemblies blow up from that sort of use. Noted that rear differentials can last an incredible amount of time and miles and is an item (not all that many) that I will consider used. Locally they just cut everything off with torches so YOU get to undo the stuff and use your brakes and depending on rust situation whatever may not be in shape for reuse from yours.
This is doable stuff. I don't think it cost all that much. An entire unit shipped would cost a bunch no doubt for shipping and you would be stuck with it if not good right away vs fixing what's wrong with yours.
Laugh but not funny - the last two of very few over a career were from external damage! One bent from backing into something stronger than it and another from coil spring lands that rusted right off rendering the whole unit junk. They were NOT that expensive as entire units here - can't speak for everywhere of course.
Yours should likely look a lot like this inside......
T
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