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97 Voyager Transmission issue
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semaj
New User
Jun 30, 2012, 1:44 PM
Post #1 of 8
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97 Voyager Transmission issue
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Hello,
I have a 1997 Plymouth Voyager with 115K miles. It has a 3.3 engine with a FWD transmission. The "service engine soon light" started coming on intermittently for about 10 days. All fluid levels where checked and everything seemed OK. Then my wife began to complain about the vehicle driving poorly. Finally I had a chance to test drive and see for my self. Driving while cold, the tranny appears to be fine, After the car had been driven about 5 miles I first noticed a "shutter" when coming to a stop while shifting from second to first. after a few more miles the transmission would not engage when initial excelleration was attempted from a complete stop then it engaged. The fluid level is at capacity. My wife stated she was driving on the Freeway and the RPM's rocketed as if the vehicle had down shifted then it stayed in that lower gear. It is difficult to tell if there is any metal in the fluid even when using a white rag to clean the dip stick as the minute amount of discoloration could be coming from the dip tube side walls when dipping and removing the stick. I took the car to Aamco (sorry but I have never trusted transmission shops) for a free code read. While I did not see the codes myself, the tech stated the codes where P-o700, P-1775, P-0731, P-0734, P-1776, P-0740 and P-1782. The tech offered, for free to schedule a time when he coul dtake a closer look to determine the cuase of th eproblem. I just have a hard time trusting these guys based on the multiple stories I have heard from other people. I have good mechanical aptitude and would prefer to do as much as I can to reslove this. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for your help and knowledge
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jun 30, 2012, 2:32 PM
Post #2 of 8
(7214 views)
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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You have major transmission issues. You need to have it analyzed by a trans specialist.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 30, 2012, 6:39 PM
Post #3 of 8
(7185 views)
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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There really isn't too many user serviceable parts on this tranny. One common problem on these is the shift solenoid pack. It was prone to leaking & erratic shifting problems. It's on the frt of the tranny by the bottom.
If it is already leaking then that would warrant changing but since it's around 3 bills I wouldn't just throw one at it for no reason...
One big caution, while it's not hard to change, the way it sits, on top of the tranny, it is very easy for dirt to collect around it, especially on the back side between the back of the pack & trans case. This is a very small space and fills with dirt. This goes right into the valve body so when the pack is removed, if there is any dirt round that hasn't been removed, it will fall into the valve body creating all kinds of problems.
Even if you got the area spotless before R&Ring the pack, it's still recommended to flush the entire system immediately after replacement (meaning right away, not driving 5 or 10 mies to get it done right away)
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jun 30, 2012, 7:56 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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If you have a trans jack and some knowledge of cars this is an easy swap and I think you need a new trans for sure. With a hoist and my shop I've been timed at pulling one of these in 47 minutes. Its the easiest FWD trans I've ever pulled.
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semaj
New User
Jul 1, 2012, 12:34 PM
Post #5 of 8
(7153 views)
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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From all responses it does appear I need a new tranny. Can you tell me where I can find, online, a step by step procedure for removal? Also, does the torque converter need to be replaced at the same time?
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nickwarner
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/ Moderator
Jul 1, 2012, 1:00 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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Yes, replace the torque convertor with the new trans. I usually do the engine rear main while I'm there. This procedure shows an engine support tool coming from the top, but I've had good results with a chain going from the core support to the rack and pinion. You'll need a tech level scanner to reset the CVI and perform the quick learn procedure when the install is done.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
  
Fig. Fig. 1: In order for the transaxle to be removed from the vehicle, an engine support must be used
WARNING If the vehicle is going to be rolled on its own wheels while the transaxle is out of the vehicle, obtain two outer CV-joints to install to the hubs. If the vehicle is rolled without the proper torque applied to the front wheel bearings, the bearings will be destroyed.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. If equipped with the 3.0L engine, drain the coolant.
- Use an engine support fixture to support the engine.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly if preventing access to the upper bell housing bolts.
- Disconnect the transaxle shift linkage at the manual valve lever.
- Squeeze the grommet clips to disconnect the cable at the transaxle bracket.
- Remove the transaxle oil dipstick tube.
- Disconnect and plug the transaxle fluid cooler lines.
Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnecting the shift cable from the manual valve lever
Fig. Fig. 3: After the cable is disconnected, remove it from the bracket - Remove the input and output speed sensors.
- Remove the upper bell housing mounting bolts.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
- Position a drain pan under the transaxle where the halfshafts enter the differential or extension housing. Remove the right and left halfshaft assemblies.
- Drain the transaxle fluid.
- Remove the torque converter dust shield (inspection cover), matchmark the torque converter to the flexplate and rotate the engine clockwise to remove the torque converter bolts.
- Detach the wiring harness connections to the transaxle range switch and the Park/Neutral position switch.
- Remove the front motor mount insulator and bracket.
- If equipped with Distributorless (DIS) ignition system, remove the crankshaft position sensor from the bell housing.
Fig. Fig. 4: To access the torque converter bolts, remove the torque converter dust shield
Fig. Fig. 5: Use the crankshaft damper nut to rotate the engine clockwise to access the torque converter bolts - Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and set the starter motor aside. Do not allow the starter motor to hang suspended from the battery cable.
- Position a transmission jack under the transaxle.
- With the transaxle mount firmly in position, remove the left transaxle mount.
- Remove the lower bell housing bolts.
- Pull the transaxle completely away from the engine and carefully lower it from the vehicle.
- To prepare the vehicle for rolling, secure the engine with a suitable support or reinstall the front motor mount to the engine. Then, reinstall the ball joints to the steering knuckle and install the retaining bolt. Install the obtained outer CV-joints to the hubs, install the washers and tighten the axle nuts to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). The vehicle may now be safely rolled.
Fig. Fig. 6: A transmission/transaxle jack should be used to remove the transaxle from the vehicle
Fig. Fig. 7: With the transaxle secured to the jack, remove the engine mounts To install:
- Install the transaxle securely on the transmission jack. Rotate the converter so it will align with the positioning of the flexplate.
WARNING If the torque converter has been replaced, a torque converter clutch break-in procedure must be performed. This procedure will reset the transaxle control module break-in status. Failure to perform this procedure may cause transaxle shutter. To properly do this, a DRB or equivalent scan tool, is required to read or reset the break-in status.
- Apply a coating of high temperature grease to the torque converter pilot hub.
- Raise the transaxle into place and push it forward until the dowels engage and the bell housing is flush with the block.
- Install the lower transaxle bell housing bolts.
- Jack the transaxle up and install the left transaxle mount.
- Install the starter to the transaxle. Tighten the starter motor mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
- Remove the transaxle jack from under the vehicle.
- If equipped with D.I.S. ignition system, clean off the old spacer on the crankshaft position sensor and install a new spacer. Install the crankshaft position sensor to the transaxle bell housing and push down until contact is made with the drive plate. Tighten the sensor retaining bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
- Install the front engine mount insulator and bracket.
- Reattach the wiring harness connectors to the Park/Neutral position switch and the transaxle range switch.
- Align the torque converter to the flexplate mounting bolt holes. Install the torque converter bolts and tighten to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm). Install the torque converter inspection cover.
- Install the right and left halfshaft assemblies. Install the ball joints to the steering knuckles. Tighten the axle nuts to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm) and install new cotter pins.
- Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
- Lower the vehicle.
- Install the upper transaxle mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
- Remove the engine support fixture.
- Install the input and output speed sensors.
- Reconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines.
- Install the transaxle oil dipstick tube.
- Attach the shift cable to the transaxle bracket.
- Reconnect the transaxle shift linkage to the manual valve lever.
- Install the air cleaner assembly. Fill the transaxle with the proper amount of clean, fresh MOPAR® ATF Plus 7176 automatic transmission fluid.
- If equipped with the 3.0L engine, refill the cooling system to the correct level with a 50/50 mix of clean, ethylene glycol antifreeze and water. Bleed the cooling system.
- Ensure all linkages, electrical connectors and fluid lines have been reattached.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable and check the transaxle for proper operation. Perform the transaxle quick learn and torque converter clutch break-in procedures.
ADJUSTMENTS
Gearshift Cable Adjustment
See Figure 8
Normal operation of the Park/Neutral position switch provides a quick check to confirm proper linkage adjustment.
Move the gear selector lever slowly forward until it clicks into the Park position. The starter should operate when the ignition switch is turned to the START position.
After checking the Park position, move the selector slowly toward the Neutral position, until the lever drops into the N position. If the starter will also operate at this point, the gear shift linkage is properly adjusted. If the starter fails to operate in either position, linkage adjustment is necessary, as follows: - Park the vehicle on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place the gear shift lever in the PARK position and remove the key.
Fig. Fig. 8: Gear shift cable adjustment (31 TH transaxle) - Loosen the cable adjuster screw at the transaxle operating lever.
- Move the transaxle operating lever fully forward to the Park position.
- Release the parking brake, then rock the vehicle to assure that it is in park lock. Reset the parking brake.
- Tighten the cable adjustment screw to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm). The gear shift cable should now be correctly adjusted.
- Verify PRNDL indicator still displays the corresponding gear
Throttle Pressure Linkage
- Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
- Loosen the adjustment swivel lock screw.
- To ensure proper adjustment, the swivel must be free to slide along the flat end of the throttle rod. Disassemble, clean and lubricate as required.
- Hold the transaxle throttle control lever firmly toward the engine, against its internal stop. Tighten the swivel lock screw to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
- The adjustment is finished and linkage backlash was automatically removed by the preload spring.
- Road test the vehicle and check the shift points.
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semaj
New User
Jul 1, 2012, 1:10 PM
Post #7 of 8
(7144 views)
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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Holy Cow! This is way more than I could have ever asked for. Thank you so much for the information. Have an outstanding day. You deserve it.
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 1, 2012, 1:16 PM
Post #8 of 8
(7143 views)
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Re: 97 Voyager Transmission issue
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Be sure to fully flush your transmission oil cooler or the crap that was in your old trans will kill the new one fast.
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