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clutch pedal stays on floor
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bluetjk75
User
Dec 13, 2009, 3:00 PM
Post #1 of 8
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clutch pedal stays on floor
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96 honda accord manual transmission,just changed clutch master cylinder & slave cylinder but the pedal stays to the floor(you can pull up to stay but when u press pedal to floor it stays there!!!! got any suggestions?I took it to auto repair place & that is what they said needed to be done to fix problem but it still is the same----I tried bleeding also
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 13, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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You just haven't got it bled out yet. It still has air in the system. They are not easy to bleed because the bleeder is at the bottom and the air rises.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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bluetjk75
User
Dec 13, 2009, 4:49 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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thx for the quick reply,i'll try that----got any tips for bleeding line,we have tried opening the bleeder screw while pumping clutch pedal
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 13, 2009, 4:58 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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A pressure bleeder is the only reliable way to go. Manual bleeding can be hit or miss on these things. Some can be real hell to bleed.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Dec 13, 2009, 5:19 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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Rangers....Now those can be a b*tch to bleed. It's angle they got the master at that makes impossible to bleed. Either have 2 raise the frt with a twin post & r&r the master.....
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Loren Champlain Sr
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Dec 14, 2009, 7:18 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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I've had to unbolt slave cylinders, hold them with the bleeder upwards, and gravity bleed them. What a PIA?
Loren
SW Washington
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Dieselrotor
User
Dec 21, 2009, 5:52 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Re: clutch pedal stays on floor
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If the master was replaced, Yes it will be a bitch to bleed. Do not fool You're self and say "i have been bleeding the thing for an hour and it still does not work". You could bleed it for a week and it would not help. The master should have been bench bled first then capped and installed. A preassure bleeder is prime for doing this, and even sometimes a tool called a pulse injection bleeder (mine cost almost $400 , so not feesable for everyone) needs to be used.
What a pulse injector does is, simply pulse fluid back and forth, but mostly forth , to jar loose any air bubbles in the system. one good air bubble can cause what feels like a loss of half the hydraulic force and travel. while bleeding, have the person running the peddle move the peddle slowly, but not all the way to the bottom, just about a half inch from the bottom until he or she starts feeling resistance building. once felt the peddle should return towards the top by itself. then continue bleeding (keeping an eye on the resevoir at all times). and bleed it well. dont stop just because you get a little better pressure, if You fail to completely bleed You will also have less travel in the clutch etc.etc......
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