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1999 yukon shudders at 60 mph
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toddr
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Oct 21, 2010, 12:07 PM
Post #26 of 43
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Re: 1999 yukon shudders at 60 mph
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I ordered a OE cap and rotor / GM dealership. Not cheap - $67.76 Cap / $15.40 rotor. Ouch. But if you say OE is the only way to make sure this doesn't happen again in a short period of time I will run with it. Thanks, Todd.
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Hammer Time
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Oct 21, 2010, 12:21 PM
Post #27 of 43
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Re: 1999 yukon shudders at 60 mph
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Delco aftermarket is the same product, a lot cheaper. Don't waste your money at the dealer. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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toddr
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Oct 21, 2010, 12:23 PM
Post #28 of 43
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Re: 1999 yukon shudders at 60 mph
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That will do the trick? Has to be Delco right? They will be OE specs?
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Sidom
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Oct 21, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Re: 1999 yukon shudders at 60 mph
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Now you have to understand that we are just taking about common failure patterns we have seen with this model. We have no way of knowing it this is your actual problem. With this crossfire issue the only way I know of confirming this is with a scope and while the failure is happening. It's not to say there couldn't be something else going on. Before sinking any money into this, you should check this out with what you have for as far as you can go. You said you SES came on, get the codes pulled. Try to narrow down which cyl's are missing. Run a compression test. If you can get it to fail sitting there a running compression test would also be good. After further thought these also have a problem with the valves sticking.......Do that wiggle test I told you about At some point you are going to be limited by the tools you don't have..... This is where you need to make a decision. Call around to a few good shops and price a diag. Now compare the price of the parts you are going to install that haven't been confirmed as bad. You make the choice if it's worth the gamble. The cap might not be so bad, you had problems in the past and this is something you may need anyway but once it gets to the point of changing parts that might not ever need to be changed is when you really need to weigh the cost of the gamble. On the reverse I've done diags where the guy was pretty sure he knew the problem but didn't want to chance the cost of the part. When the diag came back that he was right it would always get a DAMN IT!!!!!!! but then they were glad they didn't spend $500 and still have the same problem....
(This post was edited by Sidom on Oct 21, 2010, 12:41 PM)
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toddr
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Oct 21, 2010, 1:00 PM
Post #30 of 43
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All good points. You mention wiggle test. In a earlier post when you mentioned "wiggle test" I thought you meant check all connections. Now you say valves sticking? I will check out the cap & rotor first chance I get. Considering what I have gone through with these parts over the past 3 years my best educated guess is this is the problem area. I will also check the vent holes in the distributor again to insure they are clear. From there I will get the codes pulled. Thanks, Todd.
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Sidom
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Oct 21, 2010, 1:35 PM
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I guess I should've gone more indepth on the wiggle test. What this is, is while an engine is running, you gently wiggle the connecters of different components. If this has an effect on the way it runs then there is a problem in that area.... Just so you know something about me.....On problems that require "thinking" a lot of times my 1st answer isn't always the best answer. I will think a problem thru come up with (at the time) the best options and go with that..... Later on down the road, I won't even being thinking about the problem, something else pops into my mind. Like the valves on your truck... Some techs have accused me of doing that on purpose in the past.... They'll have a problem, I'll give them the best way to fix it, go out have a smoke and an ever better way will pop into my head.... I'll go tell them and they say "You did that on purpose!!! You just wanted to see me struggle!!"......lol all I can say is if I had thought of it I would've told them......lmao I know myself enough, if I'm having a problem, I won't jump right in right away. Put in on the back burner for a few and see if anything else pops up........
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Hammer Time
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Oct 21, 2010, 1:48 PM
Post #32 of 43
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LOL.......... I wake up in the middle of the night with solutions to problems sometimes. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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toddr
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Oct 21, 2010, 2:00 PM
Post #33 of 43
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I totally agree! Walk away - have a smoke and think about it! I do it all the time - It may take a while but somehow I find a answer! I really appreciate the help. I will let you know what I find out. Take it easy. Todd.
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Sidom
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Oct 21, 2010, 2:06 PM
Post #34 of 43
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It's bizzare....You're not even thinking about it and it just pops up......
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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 21, 2010, 2:13 PM
Post #35 of 43
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A note on parts and a host of things: Dealer's can and do cheat. Every brand name I can think of will box a part with their name and there's one tiny indicator that it was for the wholesale market so NOT the same. Gotta trust them or be real wary or have an original and take a hard look at it. It's absolutely true! Look and the Rolex clone watches out there and the list is endless. The aftermarket has beat up real OE parts and things by price so bad that by name, Whirlpool, John Deere, GE, and that goes for tires too. The wholesale clubs, monster Autozone, Walmart and others that big tell the company what the price will be not the other way around so if they want to stay with the largest market they have to cut corners and do. Too many to list but I know this is fact that they do this. Example: Try to find jeans made by Levi Strauss at Walmart. You won't! That company refuses to make a cheaper product even for the world's largest retailer that can put companies out of biz if they don't comply to that crap at last check anyway. It's a cruel world sometimes - competition is dog eat dog, T
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toddr
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Oct 21, 2010, 2:24 PM
Post #36 of 43
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They will get you any way they can!! Sometimes Generic works just fine!
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Tom Greenleaf
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Oct 21, 2010, 3:59 PM
Post #37 of 43
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I just ask that you get what you really pay for. If you want cheap - fine. Whatever it is. With the Delco thing (just spark plugs) I have 10 year old originals when replaced that look like new and the four year old Delco marked ones are all rusted! Shows to go you! T
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toddr
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Oct 27, 2010, 9:30 AM
Post #38 of 43
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Well, replaced the cap & rotor with OE parts - running a bit better but the same problem exists - I did see this post and wanted your opinion. I did everything but # 4 and #5. Let me know if you think the Crankshaft position sensor may be the issue.... Please read...........This is another post from another lucky Yukon owner............ First off, sorry for the length of this post:rolleyes: I have been chasing this issue down for years and finally fixed it this weekend. I wanted to share what I did b/c this seems to be a very common problem in the 1999 Yukons and Tahoes. I have spent a ton of time on this AWESOME forum trying to get input and wanted to share my cure in case it helps someone else. I have a 1999 GMC Yukon with a Vortec engine and 130,000 miles. My issue first showed up at 35,000 miles and has shown up from time to time since then, getting progressively worse. Sometimes, the Yukon would start to misfire when towing and occasionally when just going up a hill around 70 mph. The truck would start to shudder and shake and even if I let up on the throttle and then tried to accelerate, it would happen again. If I didn't let up onthe throttle, the service engine soon (SES) light would flash and then go on solid. At this point the truck would smooth out (it seems to go from a default mode for fuel and spark). Running the codes would get me a P0304 misfire on cylinder 4 and other times I would get a random misfire. I have had it to several mechanics and run scanners on it trying to isolate what the issue was. It was difficult to get this problem to replicate itself which made diagnosis very difficult. The following are some of the repairs I have done (many not related to this issue) that have not fixed this problem: 1 - Multiple full tune ups w/ AC Delco parts (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter) 2 - Replaced fuel pump b/c fuel pressure was marginal 3 - Replaced intake manifold gasket (due to leaking coolant) 4 - Replaced fuel injection spider / poppets w/upgraded version 5 - Replaced distributor due to issue w/the rotor mount Two weeks ago, I was driving down the highway and came to a hill that tripped my SES light for what seemed to be the 50th time. This time, I decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor. It is one of hte easiest pieces to replace on your Yukon. it is located right behind the harmonic balancer at the front of the oil pan. All you need is remove the wires from the harness and an 8 mm socket and ratchet to remove the one bolt holding it in and you're done. 10 minutes max. My Yukon FINALLY runs PERFECT!!!! :bananasmi :bananasmi :bananasmi I even towed a car on a car hauler the past weekend for 40 miles down back roads, the highway, up hills and everything without even a minor hesitation or shudder. You should obviously rule out the other issues such as a fuel pressure and spark issues (cap, rotor, wires). If none of these issues are the cause of your problem, it may be your crank sensor. Hope this helps someone else. links removed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Oct 27, 2010, 10:26 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Oct 27, 2010, 9:38 AM
Post #39 of 43
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It's not a problem/cure that I have run into before with that symptom but I suppose it's possible ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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toddr
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Oct 27, 2010, 9:59 AM
Post #40 of 43
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Hate to drop $100 if this isn't the cure..................
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Hammer Time
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Oct 27, 2010, 10:24 AM
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Your alternative is to pay the dealer $125 to tell you what the problem really is. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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toddr
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Oct 27, 2010, 10:29 AM
Post #42 of 43
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Good point!
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toddr
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Nov 1, 2010, 12:55 PM
Post #43 of 43
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Update - replaced the Crankcase Position Sensor this weekend. So far so good - running good. Nothing strange going on at 60 mph+. Hopefully this was the ticket!
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