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2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working
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ericwalker
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Jun 7, 2014, 12:30 PM
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2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working
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I need help diagnosing ac issue in 2005 ford e350 truck 5.4L 8 cylinder automatic. The AC is not working properly: Blower speeds work, no cold air. I looked to see if the compressor was running when I turned on the ac and it was not. I do not want to make a move until I can pinpoint the problem. I did not check refrigerant level, though the system went from normal cold blowing conditions to vent only condition; and when I saw that the compressor was not running during a normal cycle I figured this may be the problem...
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Discretesignals
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Jun 7, 2014, 12:35 PM
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Re: 2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working
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First thing you should do is connect a set of ac gauges up to the system and see what kind of static pressure it has. Would be kind waste of time to chase electrical issues if you have a low charge.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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ericwalker
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Jun 7, 2014, 2:09 PM
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Re: 2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working
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Thanks, will do, what should the static pressure be for this truck?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 7, 2014, 2:29 PM
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The static pressure will vary with outside temp but anything over 50PSI will engage the compressor.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 7, 2014, 2:47 PM
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Static Pressure chart. Note that this is what refrigerant pressure will be (system off) just like checking tire pressure. It's pretty exact. Engine heat will change the under hood temp.
If or when lower than these #s it's low on charge. Leaks common. Don't aimlessly charge but find leaks, charge to spec. Don't wait too long as if a true low charge oil isn't circulating properly and will destroy compressor and more. Be fast and might save a lot of extra work. Chart............
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 7, 2014, 2:50 PM
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That's a whole lot more information than you'll need. All we're trying to find out here is if you have minimum pressure for the compressor to engage.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 7, 2014, 2:58 PM
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Can tell you that you are definitely low with one quick test, T
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ericwalker
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Jun 10, 2014, 10:37 AM
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OK, so, hooked up ac gauges - 105L, 100H with vehicle running for 30 minutes, turned ac on high, no change and compressor did not engage.
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Hammer Time
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Jun 10, 2014, 10:58 AM
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OK, so you have sufficient pressure for the compressor to engage initially. That means your issue is electrical and you are going to have to follow a wiring diagram to fine the cause.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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ericwalker
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Jun 11, 2014, 2:48 AM
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Re: 2005 Ford e350 air conditioning not working
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Hello, thanks, I will work thru these.
Could I do a continuity test on the compressor itself to rule this out immediately? I know there can be issues anywhere in the line:
Relays
Fuses
Connections
Leaks
Heater/Evap core
If I have to evacuate the system, do you recommend re-charging with an added dye?
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 11, 2014, 3:10 AM
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You have enough pressure as HT said to trigger compressor upon request. That doesn't tell you more yet just that there's some refrigerant in the system and should kick on even if instantly kicked back off.
Check with LED test light if plug to clutch coil has power. If so BE CAREFUL but tap on head of clutch easy with like a small rubber hammer or wood as it might engage. Beware if it does where you tap is going to spin at engine speed.
All caution or don't do that. Try just key to run, engine off and do that again if any chance tapping it would make item a projectile. See if it snaps to.
If so measure clutch air gap. Post what you find,
T
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Discretesignals
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Jun 11, 2014, 4:03 AM
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One test you can do to get some direction is to go into the relay box and put your finger on the AC relay. Have someone turn the AC on and off with the engine running. You can also remove the relay and touch it on and off in the relay cavity and feel it click on and off if you don't have a helper.
You should feel the relay clicking. The clicking will tell you if the PCM is getting an ac request from the control panel and if the pressure switches are good. That would eliminate half the system.
If the relay doesn't click, that means you have to look at PCM's AC system inputs and the PCM's relay control output circuit, make sure the relay itself is good, and make sure you have the powers on terminals 1 and 3 in the relay cavity with the key on.
If the relay does click, that means you need to find out if power is getting to the ac clutch.
Either way you go, it will lead you to the problem. I just find using the relay as my starting point because it is easily accessible and checks are easily made to determine which half of the system to go to next.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 11, 2014, 4:28 AM)
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ericwalker
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Jun 11, 2014, 12:01 PM
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Of course, after testing everything but the mini fuse, I check that and it was blown..
Rundown:
Relay - good
Pressure switch - got continuity
Pressure switch plug - got voltage
Compressor/Clutch - got continuity
Compressor/Clutch plug - no Voltage
The 10amp mini fuse, which also operates the running lights (which work with a new fuse) ends up blowing when I turn the ac switch in the truck on, therefore the running lights go out as well.
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Discretesignals
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Jun 11, 2014, 12:48 PM
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You need to find the short in this part of the circuit then. Inspect the wiring harness really good. Look for any wiring or parts of the harness that are rubbing on brackets or metal parts. You can also unplug the compressor and see if the fuse blows to see if you have a field coil shorted out. A shorted diode is another possibility.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Jun 11, 2014, 12:55 PM)
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ericwalker
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Jun 11, 2014, 2:35 PM
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Please help with schematic, not very good with them. I used youtube to find other tests. Where is this part of the system? Between the on/off switch and fuse?, between the fuse and relay, or between the pressure switch and compressor, or elsewhere?
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Hammer Time
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Jun 11, 2014, 10:35 PM
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You can see from the diagram that power from that fuse goes to the relay as clutch supply power. The relay completes the connection to the clutch coil so either the compressor clutch is shorted, the relay is shorted or the wiring in between is shorted. The clutch is the most likely suspect so just unplug it and see if the fuse still blows when you turn the system on.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 12, 2014, 12:42 AM
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If disconnecting clutch doesn't blow the fuse one more check is ohms at those terminals. Not below 2 or above 5 and want about 3.5 or so. You mentioned continuity but not just how tested or whether plug end or coil end?
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 12, 2014, 1:34 AM
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If you unplug the compressor and it stops blowing the fuse........ you're done .......... Replace the compressor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Jun 12, 2014, 1:55 AM
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Roll dice if so. $525 whole new or $135 complete coil and clutch assembly.........Do the test first of course!
T
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Hammer Time
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Jun 12, 2014, 3:31 AM
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A new compressor with clutch for that truck can be bought for under $200 in some cases and commonly below $250.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
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Jun 12, 2014, 3:53 AM
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Just don't get any ideas...lol
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Hammer Time
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Jun 12, 2014, 5:01 AM
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That's a great idea. I have a bunch of squirrels in the back yard I can train to power it.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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ericwalker
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Jun 12, 2014, 7:33 AM
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Surprise, the fuse blew with the compressor unplugged. Could it be the on/off switch on the dashboard?
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Discretesignals
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Jun 12, 2014, 7:42 AM
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No. The short is in the wiring between the relay and the connector that plugs into the compressor. It could also be that diode could have shorted. You need to inspect the wiring. Inspect those wiring harnesses. Look for anything that doesn't look right.
I haven't seen a relay short out when energized, but anything is possible. You could swap another relay in the box to see if it does the same thing.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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ericwalker
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Jun 12, 2014, 10:06 AM
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Where is the diode located?
Will check the whole harness for breaks..
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